1969 f250 4WD, dana 44 closed knuckle front axle. I am replacing my wheel lugs and studs, while changing them I noticed that if I pull up gently on my hub assembly from the outmost edge, that the hub/drum/everything moves up and down, all the way back to the closed knuckle joint.... I have a feeling that it's not supposed to do this. But not positive. Do you guys think I have a mayjor problem?

 

Yea sorry to say it but it shouldn't do that your whole hub/knuckle assembly should have no play in it time for a rebuild. If I get time I'll search for a thread posted earlier this year of a step by step process of rebuilding the front closed knuckle assembly.

 

Sounds like it needs king pin bearings and races. Do you have the 3000# Dana 44 or the 3500# 44H.D.?

 

That's what I was afraid of
It's the 3000 dana 44.

 

Would you think the slight movement poses an immediate danger to drive, or is it ok to drive around town till I get parts to fix in a week or 2?

 

How enthusiastic are you about driving on three wheels? If you have another vehicle this one should be off the road until fixed.

 

Unless this truck is your daily driver or you definitely need it. I wouldn't be driving it. You could cause more damage and end up needing more parts then you already do. It's not safe for you or other drivers with a road hazard.

 

The cause of this play is from not keeping the close knuckles filled with gear lube that is required for proper maintenance. The Hubs are to be engage about every 3 months or 1000 miles and driven for a number of mile that lubes the whole inner closed knuckle bearing & u-joints .

Your best bet is to completely rebuild if your going to keep the truck. But parts are very limited as, I found out while doing mine.

You really need to first inspect the whole thing. This means pulling the axles and see how bad the inner axle seal radius area is to keep the gear lube from leaking into the axle tubes. These are located just a few inches from the ring gear carrier bearings.
These seals will need to be replaced for one thing. But to replace these you'll have to remove the ring gear assembly, then you'll find that the bearing will need replacing also..

Now by not keeping the knuckles full of oil which also lubes the axle u-joints & upper & lower king pins bearing. These may be also need replacing. Then comes the spindle inner brass bushing wear out and may needing replacing also.

Well, I think, I'll stop at this point. As you see where this going. Theirs no new axle for these closed knuckle axles and no aftermarket to be had that, I could find any where..

What's a guy to do? Move onto the 1976-77.5 yr complete front disc brake axle housing which has replacement parts that can be had in most aftermarket 4wd dealers..

The 1977.5-79 vehicles do require a little more work to install the disc brake axle housings..
Orich

 

B9C3147A...pin and plate the brg rides on.
B9C3123B...bearing.
B9C3126A...bearing race.
D4TZ3132A...wiper seal kit for closed knuckle.
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Let me know what it needs. I'll run the appropriate numbers on the locators for you. Note,right now it may not need the pin and plate assemblies. You keep driving it and the bearings may wear in to the pins.

 

X2 MONEY WELL SPENT, SWAP out for a open knuckle disc-brake 44 front, it will be cheaper in the long run.....

 

I'm highly considering the open knuckle swap, if I gotta overhaul an axle and I'm planning on running a selectable locker, then perhaps I should use this time to gather money for the open knuckle axle, and overhaul the seals and bearings in it while installing the locker. And tackle it all in one big project.

Couple questions I have though. I plan to eventually run 39.5/14.5 tires. I should probably consider beefing up to a dana 60 steer axle right?
If so, does ford make a narrow frame leaf spring perched dana 60 steer axle in any of it's trucks? Or what would be the best/better way to approach this open knuckle swap?

 

Oh and just so it's clarified, the king pins were toast on my front 44. I removed the locking hub assembly, and checked play at the bearing, none to be found ( I also over torqued the bearing) just to be sure, and it made no differance, all the rocking movement in my hub seems to be coming from the king pins.

 

39.5 " Wow yeah you'll need way lower gears up front & out back to pull those big tires.

If not geared low enough you'll put to much stress on other things like driveline yokes. And if your truck is not lifted you'll need to do a lift also.
As, I under stand the tires will rub when turning.

Finding a good used 60 are not cheap. Or need a complete rebuilding from not being used and rusted pitted inner bearing so on.. $$$$ is what you'll be looking at. Unless you know someone with one for cheap..

Do your home work before jumping into the money pit dark hole 4wd upgrades..

Orich

 

They aren't that hard to work on. The bearing caps can be a little stubborn but if you understand dowel washers, you'll get them off. You can replace them without a complete disassembly and usually can get a good enough look at the u-joints to see if they need replaced. One thing I learned on old closed knuckle fronts, the knuckle is generally pitted where the seal contacted in the straight forward position and you will have a hard time ever keeping gear lube in there. I started pumping mine full of white lubriplate grease. It never leaks out and everything stays lubed good.

 

I used STP & Lube grease 50/50 mix worked good enough to wipe the dust off.
Orich