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I just got 96 5.8 f350, And it would crank and idle but would fall on its face when you push throttle. now it won't start its getting gas to the rail. i put gauge on it. koeo was no pressure. koer was bout 30. i did the a couple of times. second time koeo test did build up to bout 28, but it was very slow about getting there, maybe 4 or 5 minutes. oh and the spark plugs are gettin spark.
I just replaced the fuel filter. I don't know if this matters to it not starting but i'm getting obd1 codes 35, 33, the egr down tube is disconnected so its getting air to exhaust. egr is not stuck i pushed it up from the bottom with screwdriver. i have had the 33 code since i got the truck two weeks ago, but i took down tube off 4 days ago, and didn't get around to welding it yet, its broke. And i did take the return line off at tank when it did run, and there was ALOT of gas going back to the tank. i thought it was too much, but it was running.
any and all help will be greatly appreciated,this is my families grocery getter thanks
I also took pcm out yesturday, one capasitor was leaking so i replaced it. the repair went well thanxs to youtube. the truck ran after that, but all day today notta. i pulled plug and checked for spark while using a test light on same cylinder injector plug connection at the same time. plug would spark once and the injector wire would light up twice. i didnt have a multimeter with ohms. I hope this means something to someone.
Both codes relate to your egr system,33 is no response from egr during test, and 35 is rpm to low to test egr, however shouldn't cause a no start.
You mentioned that you had flow from pump on return line when running,which it would, but have you tried now that it won't start,just to verify the condition hasn't changed, then you can rule out fuel delivery, the slow build up of fuel pressure is still a issue, koeo the pressure should jump to spec.
Also, what led you to open up the ecm, replacing electrolytic capacitors or any part on the ecm board can be tricky, sometimes a solder looks good but doesn't last, I've had this happen to me before, maybe worth revisiting.
yea, I was thinking it should jump right to spec as well, I was reading about a similar problem with truck cutting out when giving it throttle, and it said something about the capasitor going bad, and getting the cutting out symptom. this is my first ford, I don't know all there is to know, i wish i did. I am tired of working on it. im at a loss
Im curious if the fpr is not allowing the proper pressure in the rail, maybe its letting gas go back to tank instead of it stayin in the rail an building pressure. I pulled vacuum off fpr to check for gas i seen no sign, nor could i smell gas, could fpr still be bad and not leak gas to vacuum? so maybe not enough pressure for injector to work properly????
Is it possible for my 96 5.8 be injecting fuel at the wrong time? If so, what sensor would cause this? im getting spark nice and blue. motor was in time, it was running very well and it started cutting out trying to cut off every time i push the throttle. before it got real bad it was backfiring on passenger side ehaust. but only when letting off the throttle. seemed to be running rich to me. it was smoking alot, the smell from exhaust was overpowering, egr tube is off, and both exhast manifolds are cracked. only codes are 35, 33 koeo. thanxs
I don't know if this matters to it not starting but i'm getting obd1 codes 35, 33
Not with a 1996 will you get these codes. All 1996 codes are three-digit codes.
The KOEO key on and off is not a good way to check fuel pressure as you never know what you will get.
Fuel pressure of 30psi at idle is OK but with the engine at idle pull the vacuum line off the FPR and the pressure should go to 40psi. If it does the FPR is OK.
With the EGR tube disconnected the motor is getting unmetered fresh air in through the EGR valve which will mess up fueling, and more fresh air is getting directly into the exhaust upstream of the O2 sensor which will also throw the EFI system for a loop, so you have to either put a new tube on this thing or seal both the EGR valve and the exhaust manifold.
Your fuel pressure thing is also a concern, have you inspected the plugs to see if any are wet? A wet plug suggests a leaking injector, you can confirm that with oil that smells of fuel. Another possible cause of slow pressure build would be cross flow between tanks, this is a common problem with these trucks and if the problem occurs on the high pressure side the active tank will be filling the inactive tank as well as trying to feed the engine at the same time and that can starve the motor of fuel.
Quote;Fuel pressure of 30psi at idle is OK but with the engine at idle pull the vacuum line off the FPR and the pressure should go to 40psi. If it does the FPR is OK.
That is the best way to get pump max press reading on a running truck, basically simulating wot, but the truck isn't running and builds pressure over 5 min.
It very well could be a cross flow issue, or just a worn out pump
yes i believe it was a cross flow issue. I lossed rear tank and put new pump in front tank. I haven't checked pressure yet but i think its good now. but now truck won't start i didnt plug rear supply line though, would that make it not run? i only plugged rear return line. And my truck is 96 but still has obd1 setup. Plug is under hood on the back of driverside fender. Ive been trying to start this truck all weak in the cold, I am so tired of this truck.... I have spark, fuel, compression. if i push in schrader valve gas shoots up halfway to the hood seems like enough pressure. I back probed injectors and they are pulsing. i checked firing order its good. everytime i look at plugs they are wet. I really am wondering if it jumped time. is it possible for the dizzy to jump up causing timing to change???? thanx