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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

Suspension happy medium

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Old Nov 10, 2014 | 11:23 AM
  #16  
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^ a subframe would be a good idea and wouldn't cost to much. figure a week or so in the garage to come up with a decent design which once the first one is made and fit is good you could start knocking them out quickly with the right tools. Wish I had a water jet and a big brake. Athen you need to figure out the steering system which should be as easy as bent linkages or a mixture of drop pitman arms adjustable drag links and raises steering arms. Maybe adapt a crossover steering setup if the lift allows one? Hmmm wheels are turning in my head now.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2014 | 12:13 PM
  #17  
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So here is what I was thinking (keep in mind I don't have much of a clue); variable rate springs, taller tires, good shocks would result in 1" or 1.5" of additional clearance with better than stock handling in the rougher stuff. I do have to replace shock and spring, as well as tires, so why not make a "smart" choice.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2014 | 12:23 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by 1loco
So here is what I was thinking (keep in mind I don't have much of a clue); variable rate springs, taller tires, good shocks would result in 1" or 1.5" of additional clearance with better than stock handling in the rougher stuff. I do have to replace shock and spring, as well as tires, so why not make a "smart" choice.
Make sure these "smart" choices don't get you out of acceptable camber alignment tolerances with these variable rate springs. If only a 1" lift you shouldn't have much to worry about but if they give you much more lift you might be opening a can of worms.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2014 | 12:28 PM
  #19  
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If you keep your tire choice narrower than 10 inches, the camber affect be less evident. But really, what good is an inch? Good enough to wear out tires?

What kind of off roading are you doing? Just trail running out here? I'm stock on 31s and it works GREAT!
 
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Old Nov 10, 2014 | 01:05 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by crazed87bronco
^ a subframe would be a good idea and wouldn't cost to much. figure a week or so in the garage to come up with a decent design which once the first one is made and fit is good you could start knocking them out quickly with the right tools. Wish I had a water jet and a big brake. Athen you need to figure out the steering system which should be as easy as bent linkages or a mixture of drop pitman arms adjustable drag links and raises steering arms. Maybe adapt a crossover steering setup if the lift allows one? Hmmm wheels are turning in my head now.
I think my OCD is taking over.... cuz I've got a 71 F250 looking for inspiration.

Since 80-96 2WDs were the same in concept as these Bumps it shouldn't be very difficult to adapt the 2WD lift kits offered by the likes of Superlift, Rancho, Skyjacker, or Rough Country - or using the system components as a basis to fabricate from.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2014 | 01:06 PM
  #21  
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If somebody had the disc brakes and beams from a dentside, wouldn't a lift kit for a dent work?
 
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Old Nov 10, 2014 | 01:25 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by 351Cleveland C4
If somebody had the disc brakes and beams from a dentside, wouldn't a lift kit for a dent work?
Same problemo......There is no gain in height by swapping to Dentside (73-79) beams and discs.

In the end, the main question remains for individual decision..."Is it worth it?"

Given the time/effort with adapting a 2WD 80-96 lift or fabricating such a system, the Autofab components could be the "easiest" way to go... it just takes extra coin.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2014 | 01:29 PM
  #23  
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But with dentside beams you have ball joints to correct the camber problem, so longer springs would be the easiest way in that case, right?
 
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Old Nov 10, 2014 | 01:47 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by 351Cleveland C4
But with dentside beams you have ball joints to correct the camber problem, so longer springs would be the easiest way in that case, right?
I think you're referring to the 83-96 series which use ball joints on the beams. Dents (73-79) are the sisters to Bumps and use kingpins - Hence the disc donors as are so common.

The 2wd lifts I cited above reposition the I-beam and RA mounting points + a dropped pitman arm.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2014 | 01:54 PM
  #25  
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Ahh ok. I was under the impression that 73-79 trucks used adjustable ball joints.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2014 | 02:02 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by 351Cleveland C4
But with dentside beams you have ball joints to correct the camber problem, so longer springs would be the easiest way in that case, right?
No sir, all the slick, bump and dent sides all use kingpins on there I beams. Ball joints were not used until the bull nose trucks. If ball joints were on dent sides then you would see a lot less of those poop shoot crown Vic IFS swaps that everyone is on the band wagon with right now. to lower there truck.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2014 | 05:54 PM
  #27  
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I'm really glad that I got you guys thinking about this. I'm narrowing it down to 31" all terrain and new components. The desert is mostly flat out here and I think it would be better to have a limited slip/locker diff than 3" of lift. For now anyway. HIO ideas about an 80 or newer truck did have me thinking since I have one handy, but I would be worried about the weight of the 390. I mean I'm not a fabricator but maybe cut the front clip and graft it on and box the frame should be within the ability of my MIG welder.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2014 | 06:13 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by 1loco
I'm really glad that I got you guys thinking about this. I'm narrowing it down to 31" all terrain and new components. The desert is mostly flat out here and I think it would be better to have a limited slip/locker diff than 3" of lift. For now anyway. HIO ideas about an 80 or newer truck did have me thinking since I have one handy, but I would be worried about the weight of the 390. I mean I'm not a fabricator but maybe cut the front clip and graft it on and box the frame should be within the ability of my MIG welder.
I invite you to come with me and my truck for a run through the sticks. You'll see how well it really does.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2014 | 09:57 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by 1loco
I'm really glad that I got you guys thinking about this. I'm narrowing it down to 31" all terrain and new components. The desert is mostly flat out here and I think it would be better to have a limited slip/locker diff than 3" of lift. For now anyway. HIO ideas about an 80 or newer truck did have me thinking since I have one handy, but I would be worried about the weight of the 390. I mean I'm not a fabricator but maybe cut the front clip and graft it on and box the frame should be within the ability of my MIG welder.
31-33" is a decent tire size for a 2wd. Since you don't have any locker it might be a better investment and give you a way bigger hand off road to get one installed. The weight of the 390 isn't a problem for the 80's trucks. It will take alot of fab work for sure as I think the front rails are different widths on those frames. You could always do a link suspension Ohh here go's my mind again sounds like were on to something now.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2014 | 10:40 PM
  #30  
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Also keep in mind that larger tires push the limits on the old drum brakes. I don't know how bad 33s would be compared to 31s, but 31 still does ok I think.

Just another factor to keep in mind...
 
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