Brake Fluid
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Freshman User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 25
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From: Houson, TX
Brake Fluid
How do you change the change the brake fluid on a 95 f-150? My ABS light and my parking brake light are both on so i was hoping this would fix it.
Last edited by johntucker05; Jul 17, 2003 at 02:21 AM.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 4,968
Likes: 3
From: So Cal
Brake Fluid
In general you would use a "turkey baster" or other sucking tool to remove as much dirty fluid from the master cylinder.
Next go to each wheel and bleed the cylinder there. Most people start at the wheel furthest from the master, usually right rear. With ABS you will probably want to bleed with the engine running so the ABS pump is active and pushing any bubbles out of the system under pressure.
Naturally keep refilling the master with clean fluid as you bleed so you don't get more bubbles in the system. You will probably need at least a quart of fresh fluid.
Changing Brake fluid is a good maintenance item which is often forgotten. Don't know if it will fix your ABS and parking light though. Those might be caused by a bad speed sensor, problems with the ABS system or a maladjusted parking brake switch.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
Next go to each wheel and bleed the cylinder there. Most people start at the wheel furthest from the master, usually right rear. With ABS you will probably want to bleed with the engine running so the ABS pump is active and pushing any bubbles out of the system under pressure.
Naturally keep refilling the master with clean fluid as you bleed so you don't get more bubbles in the system. You will probably need at least a quart of fresh fluid.
Changing Brake fluid is a good maintenance item which is often forgotten. Don't know if it will fix your ABS and parking light though. Those might be caused by a bad speed sensor, problems with the ABS system or a maladjusted parking brake switch.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 439
Likes: 0
From: Burnsville, MN
Brake Fluid
John, the process of bleeding brakes exceeds what we can reasonably cover here, but I would suggest that you pick up a repair manual that will outline the process so no mistakes are made.
At a high level - two people are required / or a power bleeder and one person.
Objective is to take new brake fluid in throught the master cylinder and purge the old at the wheel cylinders or calipers.
Quick overview:
person in drivers seat pumps up brakes and holds.
second person opens drain port on wheel cylinder until driver indicates pedal is at or near the floor, then they close the drain port.
Brake fluid level is checked periodically and the process is repeated.
Good luck!
At a high level - two people are required / or a power bleeder and one person.
Objective is to take new brake fluid in throught the master cylinder and purge the old at the wheel cylinders or calipers.
Quick overview:
person in drivers seat pumps up brakes and holds.
second person opens drain port on wheel cylinder until driver indicates pedal is at or near the floor, then they close the drain port.
Brake fluid level is checked periodically and the process is repeated.
Good luck!
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 4,968
Likes: 3
From: So Cal
Brake Fluid
Suction bleeders are fine for old style brake systems and other purposes where you want to draw a vacuum, but my experience and the experience of a whole group of auto nuts from the dark side, chebby SS's, is that the ABS systems require the engine running to pressurize the system and force out bubbles.
I tried to bleed the brakes on my F250 with a suction bleeder that cost mucho dinero with engine off and all I did was waste 2 quarts of synthetic brake fluid at something like $15 a pop. I still had bubbles and soft brakes. When I bled the brakes with power on the results were much better and it took a lot less fluid to do it.
Now I use the vacuum pump for other purposes at which it excells, but not ABS brakes.
Read a manual but in general bleeding brakes means you need two people, One who listens very well and follows commands exactly. That person will pump the brakes and hold pressure as you command and never let off pressure until you say so. You will be under the truck with a small clear plastic hose over the bleeder screw and with a flarenut wrench or an appropriate sized open end wrench. The other side of the hose should be in a jar or drain pan. The bleeder screw kind of looks like a zerk fitting but is on the brake cylinder. If you didn't understand zerk, you would best have a buddy help you with the bleeding and you pumping the brakes.
When the brakes are pumped up, you open the bleeder screw a little and watch for fluid and bubbles in the rubber hose. As your friend nears the bottom of the brake pedal travel, close the bleeder and have your friend pump the brakes up again and hold pressure, then open the valve again. Keep doing this until you get no more bubbles. Repeat for all cylinders and ABS controller near the master. Bleed the master too.
MAKE SURE you ALWAYS have plenty of fluid in the reservoir you don't want to pump in more bubbles from an empty cylinder. Never allow your friend to pump or let off the brakes while the bleeder is open, it will suck air into the system.
This is a very brief description and you really should read a manual and or have a buddy show you. It is easy but the key is to make sure your helper pumps only when commanded and holds pressure at all times, while you open the valve and watch for clear bubble free fluid.
NOTE that brake fluid eats paint, don't get any on the paint.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
I tried to bleed the brakes on my F250 with a suction bleeder that cost mucho dinero with engine off and all I did was waste 2 quarts of synthetic brake fluid at something like $15 a pop. I still had bubbles and soft brakes. When I bled the brakes with power on the results were much better and it took a lot less fluid to do it.
Now I use the vacuum pump for other purposes at which it excells, but not ABS brakes.
Read a manual but in general bleeding brakes means you need two people, One who listens very well and follows commands exactly. That person will pump the brakes and hold pressure as you command and never let off pressure until you say so. You will be under the truck with a small clear plastic hose over the bleeder screw and with a flarenut wrench or an appropriate sized open end wrench. The other side of the hose should be in a jar or drain pan. The bleeder screw kind of looks like a zerk fitting but is on the brake cylinder. If you didn't understand zerk, you would best have a buddy help you with the bleeding and you pumping the brakes.
When the brakes are pumped up, you open the bleeder screw a little and watch for fluid and bubbles in the rubber hose. As your friend nears the bottom of the brake pedal travel, close the bleeder and have your friend pump the brakes up again and hold pressure, then open the valve again. Keep doing this until you get no more bubbles. Repeat for all cylinders and ABS controller near the master. Bleed the master too.
MAKE SURE you ALWAYS have plenty of fluid in the reservoir you don't want to pump in more bubbles from an empty cylinder. Never allow your friend to pump or let off the brakes while the bleeder is open, it will suck air into the system.
This is a very brief description and you really should read a manual and or have a buddy show you. It is easy but the key is to make sure your helper pumps only when commanded and holds pressure at all times, while you open the valve and watch for clear bubble free fluid.
NOTE that brake fluid eats paint, don't get any on the paint.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
