4 wheel drive engaged?
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 337
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From: California
4 wheel drive engaged?
Ok- so last year wife, kids and I were driving up the mountains in the snow. Put truck into 4 Hi only to find out that it wasn't engaged and we started having trouble on the snowy ice surface. The truck said engaged on the dash; but after pulling over and giving it some fuel it was obvious that the front was not pulling only the rear was spinning. So I put it in manual lock and all was good. My question is how do you know if your truck is engaging into 4 wheel drive. I want to check it out before we go up in the snow this season. I took it to the dealer and they said it was but I think they were just looking at the idiot light on the dash and not actually checking it.
Question is- how do I check to insure it is engaged on dry pavement?
thanks
Question is- how do I check to insure it is engaged on dry pavement?
thanks
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,777
Likes: 0
Ok- so last year wife, kids and I were driving up the mountains in the snow. Put truck into 4 Hi only to find out that it wasn't engaged and we started having trouble on the snowy ice surface. The truck said engaged on the dash; but after pulling over and giving it some fuel it was obvious that the front was not pulling only the rear was spinning. So I put it in manual lock and all was good. My question is how do you know if your truck is engaging into 4 wheel drive. I want to check it out before we go up in the snow this season. I took it to the dealer and they said it was but I think they were just looking at the idiot light on the dash and not actually checking it.
Question is- how do I check to insure it is engaged on dry pavement?
thanks
Question is- how do I check to insure it is engaged on dry pavement?
thanks
Super Moderator
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 37,379
Likes: 1,863
From: Frederick, MD
Yes, If you try to turn on dry pavment then the front end should want to hop.
But since that is hard on the driveline...put it in 4x4, roll a few feet straight and then get under there and see if the front driveshaft turns.
If you cannot turn it then it is working.
Take it back in and insist they check for vacumn leaks. Usually at the hubs.
But since that is hard on the driveline...put it in 4x4, roll a few feet straight and then get under there and see if the front driveshaft turns.
If you cannot turn it then it is working.
Take it back in and insist they check for vacumn leaks. Usually at the hubs.
Super Moderator
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 37,379
Likes: 1,863
From: Frederick, MD
Correct. Does not engage the transfer case till you hit the switch.
Still it should work as designed.
Additionally, you don't need to turn the front end if a long hwy run. Although running them lock for a few miles every month is good for lubrication.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,226
Likes: 5
From: Rusty, Maine
If you have the auto option with an electric transfer I'm sure you want to keep that function of having free hubs when not in 4WD. After all it saves fuel when not in "Lock" position and transfer in 2WD. Especially when you're on a long trip in cold weather.
All that said, I would take a garage floor jack and jack up the rear tires of your truck about an 1" off the ground. With the front tires still on the ground and the hubs in "Auto" position get in the truck, start it, and put it in 4WD.
MAKE SURE THERE IS NO ONE OR ANY THING IN FRONT OF YOUR TRUCK.
You may want some chock blocks about 1 foot in front of the front tires.
Put the truck in gear and be VERY easy on the throttle as when/if 4WD engages you don't want the truck to launch off of the jack. You just want to feel a little tug on the front end as if it were to pull you forward. Try not to move the truck at all. All you want is to feel a slight pull from the front axle. You don't want to actually move the truck. If it does come off the jack, it's no big deal because you're only an 1" off the ground in the rear...but that's also good because it means you're hubs are working fine.
Hope this helps.
All that said, I would take a garage floor jack and jack up the rear tires of your truck about an 1" off the ground. With the front tires still on the ground and the hubs in "Auto" position get in the truck, start it, and put it in 4WD.
MAKE SURE THERE IS NO ONE OR ANY THING IN FRONT OF YOUR TRUCK.
You may want some chock blocks about 1 foot in front of the front tires.
Put the truck in gear and be VERY easy on the throttle as when/if 4WD engages you don't want the truck to launch off of the jack. You just want to feel a little tug on the front end as if it were to pull you forward. Try not to move the truck at all. All you want is to feel a slight pull from the front axle. You don't want to actually move the truck. If it does come off the jack, it's no big deal because you're only an 1" off the ground in the rear...but that's also good because it means you're hubs are working fine.
Hope this helps.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 248
Likes: 19
From: Ft Worth texas
My 06 needed to have it locked in once in a while. I did this a few times a year for a few miles and then it would work fine in auto when i needed it. The thing about living in Texas is sometime you go a while before you need it.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 224
Likes: 7
From: Regina, Saskatchewan
If you have the auto option with an electric transfer I'm sure you want to keep that function of having free hubs when not in 4WD. After all it saves fuel when not in "Lock" position and transfer in 2WD. Especially when you're on a long trip in cold weather.
All that said, I would take a garage floor jack and jack up the rear tires of your truck about an 1" off the ground. With the front tires still on the ground and the hubs in "Auto" position get in the truck, start it, and put it in 4WD.
MAKE SURE THERE IS NO ONE OR ANY THING IN FRONT OF YOUR TRUCK.
You may want some chock blocks about 1 foot in front of the front tires.
Put the truck in gear and be VERY easy on the throttle as when/if 4WD engages you don't want the truck to launch off of the jack. You just want to feel a little tug on the front end as if it were to pull you forward. Try not to move the truck at all. All you want is to feel a slight pull from the front axle. You don't want to actually move the truck. If it does come off the jack, it's no big deal because you're only an 1" off the ground in the rear...but that's also good because it means you're hubs are working fine.
Hope this helps.
All that said, I would take a garage floor jack and jack up the rear tires of your truck about an 1" off the ground. With the front tires still on the ground and the hubs in "Auto" position get in the truck, start it, and put it in 4WD.
MAKE SURE THERE IS NO ONE OR ANY THING IN FRONT OF YOUR TRUCK.
You may want some chock blocks about 1 foot in front of the front tires.
Put the truck in gear and be VERY easy on the throttle as when/if 4WD engages you don't want the truck to launch off of the jack. You just want to feel a little tug on the front end as if it were to pull you forward. Try not to move the truck at all. All you want is to feel a slight pull from the front axle. You don't want to actually move the truck. If it does come off the jack, it's no big deal because you're only an 1" off the ground in the rear...but that's also good because it means you're hubs are working fine.
Hope this helps.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 337
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From: California
Thank you all for the posts. Question. If I'm in 2hi should the front driveline turn easily if I am under the truck and turn by hand and then if engaged in 4 if should feel locked correct?
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,226
Likes: 5
From: Rusty, Maine
Yes. But that won't be testing the front hubs. That will only verify that the Xfer is locked in.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 3,226
Likes: 63
If your hubs are not locking automatically, you should get a 4x4 error message on the dash.
The easiest way to tell if the hubs are locked is put it in 4WD and turn the wheel hard over, the front axle should "hop" a bit.
You should also "exercise" the hubs occasional. I try and remember to put the truck into 4WD at least once a month. I also try manually lock the hubs twice a year.
The easiest way to tell if the hubs are locked is put it in 4WD and turn the wheel hard over, the front axle should "hop" a bit.
You should also "exercise" the hubs occasional. I try and remember to put the truck into 4WD at least once a month. I also try manually lock the hubs twice a year.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 6,521
Likes: 11
From: Greenwood, SC
My 2008 truck was terrible about 4 wheel drive. I would frequently experience one wheel drive.
The rear diff was limited slip and it wasn't strong enough to grip in mud, so one rear wheel would spin, no power to any other wheel.
So, it's possible that you don't have an LS rear diff, or, you didn't lock the rear diff.
As I understand it, if the rear diff isn't locked, one wheel spins on ice, everything else will sit still. Even if the fronts are locked and the transfer case is engaged.
This is why I was so happy to have the locking rear diff. It forces power to the front even if both rears are without traction. Since the rear is locked in,any turn of the gear will force power through the transfer case.
The rear diff was limited slip and it wasn't strong enough to grip in mud, so one rear wheel would spin, no power to any other wheel.
So, it's possible that you don't have an LS rear diff, or, you didn't lock the rear diff.
As I understand it, if the rear diff isn't locked, one wheel spins on ice, everything else will sit still. Even if the fronts are locked and the transfer case is engaged.
This is why I was so happy to have the locking rear diff. It forces power to the front even if both rears are without traction. Since the rear is locked in,any turn of the gear will force power through the transfer case.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 3,226
Likes: 63
My 2008 truck was terrible about 4 wheel drive. I would frequently experience one wheel drive.
The rear diff was limited slip and it wasn't strong enough to grip in mud, so one rear wheel would spin, no power to any other wheel.
So, it's possible that you don't have an LS rear diff, or, you didn't lock the rear diff.
As I understand it, if the rear diff isn't locked, one wheel spins on ice, everything else will sit still. Even if the fronts are locked and the transfer case is engaged.
This is why I was so happy to have the locking rear diff. It forces power to the front even if both rears are without traction. Since the rear is locked in,any turn of the gear will force power through the transfer case.
The rear diff was limited slip and it wasn't strong enough to grip in mud, so one rear wheel would spin, no power to any other wheel.
So, it's possible that you don't have an LS rear diff, or, you didn't lock the rear diff.
As I understand it, if the rear diff isn't locked, one wheel spins on ice, everything else will sit still. Even if the fronts are locked and the transfer case is engaged.
This is why I was so happy to have the locking rear diff. It forces power to the front even if both rears are without traction. Since the rear is locked in,any turn of the gear will force power through the transfer case.
I wish they would have put the locking diff in the DRW's