Not sure what to do, while removing the nut on bottom of shock the dang thing twisted off. Didn't know I had it in me. Now my truck is down an I can't work without it,so much for trying to save money and doing it myself. HELP what do I do to fix,looks like the dang think is part of the frame or something, or it screwe'd into it, any ideas?

 

Hey express,
I've got the same deal with my 1993 e250. I imagine there are some differences between yours and mine, but, shock mounts and bolts are about the same. I have mine temporarily wired (the shock) to the frame on the existing bolt. (the thread part and bolt is what broke off). There are some good articles and pictures found online using replacement bolts, etc. Some guys have ground the old off, and inserted new bolt mount. I will get to mine later, the wires seem to be holding for now. Sorry for not much detail, but again there are some good articles out there. Good luck. D
PS: Google "ford econoline broken shock mount" for some good pictures and help. Or yet maybe someone on this site has experience with this. I think it's fairly common problem.

 

I had the same thing happen on my '94 8-9 years ago.

If I remember...........Took a zip wheel and cut stud flush with radius arm, then drilled out arm, and insert 5/8" bolt threw arm, and couple washers & nut to attach lower shock socket.

Changed the shocks many times after that, and just needed a wrench on the out side to hold "stud" And plenty of anti-seize never cause a problem after.

 

Had the same happen on my 96. I cut the remaining bolt flush with the trailing arm, then drilled the arm and used left over shock mount bolts(from another vehicle I'd stashed away) to replace the broken ones.

 

Hey all. I too broke my mount, twisted the nut and threads off. I now have cut the remaining bits off.
I have a E 350 dually cube van, and the shock and radius arm seem to be slightly different. The shock mounts on the inside of the C shape, but I see most of yours mount to the outside of the C-shap radius arm and even on the outside of the arm. ??
Not a big deal, but mine has an extra piece. There is a piece of metal bent so that the mount can mount about an inch away from the radius arm in order to clear the lip of the inside of the C-frame. All that to say that I cannot drill out the remaining bolt that is now sawed off and flush with the frame piece, not can I drill and come through the other side with any sort of bolt or stud without drilling through both the plate and the radius arm which have about a half inch gap between them.
Has anyone encountered this?
My plan is to do some welding. I will weld a stud (threaded rod) to a plate and then weld the plate to the radius arm assembly. This way I can make a very neat and clean weld to the new stud (not having to weld this part under the vehicle upside-down) and then have plenty of surface area to weld the plate to the frame.
I am open to any ideas for an easier fix.

 

I wouldn't use threaded rod. Needs to be a grade 8 or 9 bolt. I used a shock mount bolt left over from a previously changed set of shocks from some other vehicle. Threaded rod is grade 5 at best.

 

I've used threaded rod classified as "B7 hardened" which is reported to be roughly equivalent to Grade 8. Even at that though bolts would be easier to buy and install. The added benefit would be most Grade 8 bolts & nuts have cadmium plating entirely encasing all exterior surfaces----a good way to resist rust over the longer term.