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I can totally see how various brake pads could affect braking performance. Different materials - organic, ceramic, metallic - have different coefficients of friction. But isn't a rotor a rotor? Just a piece of machined steel?
Has anyone on here really, honestly, observed any significant difference from one rotor to another?
If the rotor is drilled or slotted, I can see it performing better than a standard solid rotor...however with solid rotors, I think the big difference would be the thickness/weight and the layout of the cooling fins. A thicker rotor would act as a larger heat sink, with more resistance to warping. Thinner rotors will cool off quicker, but are more prone to warp.
I'm no expert however...but I've noticed big differences changing pads, but never much of a difference changing rotors.
I can totally see how various brake pads could affect braking performance. Different materials - organic, ceramic, metallic - have different coefficients of friction. But isn't a rotor a rotor? Just a piece of machined steel?
Has anyone on here really, honestly, observed any significant difference from one rotor to another?
Just curious.
The problem with rotors are that the cheap ones are cheap for a reason, they are sub standard and can warp, crack or fail completely, so buy good quality ones and then don't worry about anything like fancy slotted or drilled ones. Those are for race applications where they only have to live for a short time and then get thrown away. On street vehicles, slots and drilled holes just reduce surface area and the holes can lead to cracks forming.
Also, just FYI, your average rotor is cast iron, not steel.
I can totally see how various brake pads could affect braking performance. Different materials - organic, ceramic, metallic - have different coefficients of friction. But isn't a rotor a rotor? Just a piece of machined steel?
Has anyone on here really, honestly, observed any significant difference from one rotor to another?
Just curious.
Rotors are not generally made of steel unless you get into motorcycles or racing cars. They are made of Iron. There are various grades of iron and how the material is used in Forging or Casting. You generally find that the lower the price, the lower the quality of the iron. As I understand it from what I was taught - The best iron rotors are made from powdered iron which is super dense and will have the best service life under extreme conditions.. I can't tell you how many times I have seen a Chinese rotor with hot spots and warping due to inconsistency in the iron substrate or poor foundry / casting techniques...
Suffice to say - I beleive that you get what you pay for.. OEM rotors are typically some of the best quality available but you pay the price for that..
Yes, I mis-spoke when I said rotors are pieces of steel. I knew they are, in fact, iron. It was late at the end of a long day when I posted the thread. My mistake, but good to know there are plenty of good folks on here to correct the mistake!
So based on the replies so far, it's safe to say that "better" rotors are only/primarily better in their resistance to warping. And NOT for their stopping abilities. That makes sense to me.
I did a lot of research and ended up mailordering OEM ford rotors. I think from TASCA. Big mistake- they showed up and were for 10 lugs, not 8. I had to have them send me shipping labels to return... PITA. At least they paid for it. Since the truck was already apart I ran down to NAPA and picked up rotors from them. They work just fine and were cheaper.
There are at least 3 grades of brake quality at the auto parts store. I always ask for the "best you got" when it comes to brakes.
For pads, I went with EBC yellow stuff. They bite really well, but they put off an amazing amount of dust. My wheels go black in a month. Easily washes off though. Next time I'll sacrifice a little stopping and use the green stuff.
I think you have it... It's the conversion of energy that has to happen here.. You have to take the rotational intertia of the wheels - motivated by the weight and momentum of the vehicle, and change that energy into heat. It's the ability to absorb and shed that heat which differentiates POOR-GOOD-BETTER-BEST....
There are some great designs in rotors out there and there are poor ones.. I feel the better designs are the rotors with directional vents and relatively thick friction surfaces... The drilled rotors (holes) are mostly for show these days as most pad materials do not out-gas as those of the 60's-80's once did.. Slotted rotors are also coming into question in terms of their effectiveness.. Still there are manufacturers who will make them and/or use them, because they have a demand from a largely fact-ignorant customer base. Note that ignorance does not imply any degree of stupidity - just points out that we are all capable of ignorance when we have not learned the true facts..
Next time I'll sacrifice a little stopping and use the green stuff.
Not me. I'll GLADLY spend the time to wash the wheels of brake dust in exchange for being able to stop my truck (and my family inside) in as short of distance as possible.
I have used 'cheap Chinese rotors' on many vehicles (including the F350) for many years with no issues. I also am nice to my brakes, plan ahead, and downshift, etc. to avoid getting the brakes blazing hot.
The way I see most people drive (aggressively, with big tires), I'm not surprised that they are constantly replacing brake parts. These are mostly Dodge drivers, however ;-)