1983 6.9 idi help
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From: Barrie ON Canada
Hi Canadianfarmhand welcome to the forum as well. I am some what new to diesels as well, but learning from many of the great people here on this sight as well and doing alot of research. I have had the smoke issue as well and the stalling when using the brakes too. I'm not sure if any of what I have changed will help any, but this is what I have changed so far. For the white smoke I put a can of Seafoam in both tanks too which it has eliminated most of it, now the only time it smokes alot is when it's cold or if I have to hammer the peddle. As far as the stalling when you hit the brakes. I had to go to a International dealer to talk to a mechanic because the Ford mechanic was younger then me, and all he could tell me was that he needed to hook it up to the computer LOL. The International mechanic told me it could be a couple different things if there is no air leaks in the vacuum lines. 1st part to change is the Idle Position Solenoid, Vacuum pump, Vacuum Brake Booster. I changed the Idle Position Solenoid which fixed most of it. I just changed the the Vacuum pump but I'm not sure if the finished fixing the issue (I have the Vacuum Brake Booster ready to go on next) because the Glow Plug Controller just died on me.
I am the second owner of my truck so I have know idea when things have been done, everything I have changed so far have been all stock from factory except fluids of coarse.
Dave
1986 F250 XLT Lariat 6.9L IDI 2WD Super-cab Dually LB 155 WB HD Special Order
I am the second owner of my truck so I have know idea when things have been done, everything I have changed so far have been all stock from factory except fluids of coarse.
Dave
1986 F250 XLT Lariat 6.9L IDI 2WD Super-cab Dually LB 155 WB HD Special Order
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Injectors and return lines are all replaced. Still smokes. Runs a lot nicer and was probably overdue maintenance but all signs point towards a new IP. I noticed some of you guys got ahold of a return line for a few bucks cheaper than what I paid. Anyone know where I can get a deal on a new pump?
Thanks again for the help
Thanks again for the help
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Northern Arizona
IMO the best pump for the $ is through IDI Performance. Justin uses an excellent shop and the quality part is well worth the few extra bucks over Pensacola or other cheap skate "rebuilders". If you are on a very tight budget you might try a wrecking yard IP as long as it comes with some kind of guarantee. Autozone etc., will be almost as expensive as one of Justin's pumps but the quality won't be there...
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quick update;
tried to get ahold of justin but no luck, ordered a new pump through the farm and should be arriving tomorrow. If I throw this thing on and for whatever reason the timing is way off, whats the worst that can happen? Im still reading through lots of information but couldnt help but ask.
And just in time for icy roads the brake assist is acting up. Brake light on, super spongy first pump then kicks in on second pump and light goes off. Vacuum problems?
Happy holidays guys
tried to get ahold of justin but no luck, ordered a new pump through the farm and should be arriving tomorrow. If I throw this thing on and for whatever reason the timing is way off, whats the worst that can happen? Im still reading through lots of information but couldnt help but ask.
And just in time for icy roads the brake assist is acting up. Brake light on, super spongy first pump then kicks in on second pump and light goes off. Vacuum problems?
Happy holidays guys
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Northern Arizona
If the timing is way, way out... the worst that will happen is that it won't start. However, as long as you install it correctly without removing the pump housing and disturbing the gear, you can line up the marks on the IP and the IP housing. It will at least start and run there, and you can proceed to make the needed timing adjustments for proper performance. Leave the injector lines cracked loose on the injectors to bleed air out of the lines crank until you see fuel at each one, then tighten. You may need to leave one or two cracked until it actually starts and runs to get the last of the air out of the pump.
As far as the brakes, a bad vacuum pump or booster will result in a very hard pedal with no braking power. A soft spongy pedal or pedal sinking to the floor is most likely a bad master cylinder.
As far as the brakes, a bad vacuum pump or booster will result in a very hard pedal with no braking power. A soft spongy pedal or pedal sinking to the floor is most likely a bad master cylinder.
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Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 27
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From: Barrie ON Canada
I bought my vacuum brake booster and master cylinder at Part Source, they are re-manufactured so they will bolt right on with no problems and they aren't to expensive. The vacuum booster is a Cardone and the master cylinder was done by Doorman, but neither came with new nuts that bolt the 2 together so keep and reuse the old ones. I'll look around and find the receipts to give you the exact prices. I haven't istalled them yet because it's cold here now and my garage isn't heated so my baby is sleeping for the winter.
Dave
1986 F250 XLT Lariat 6.9L IDI 2WD Super-cab Dually LB 155 WB HD Special Order
Dave
1986 F250 XLT Lariat 6.9L IDI 2WD Super-cab Dually LB 155 WB HD Special Order
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New IP is in. Still smoking and sounds like its missing on a cylinder. I never tested the new injectors for spray pattern and when they pop before replacing them (I can already see most of you guys shaking your head). Also timing is far from perfect. That would explain the smoke right? I hope to god Im not going to have to throw anymore parts at it. My next step is trying to get the timing right.
What do you guys think?
What do you guys think?
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Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Northern Arizona
Right. Timing needs to be set correctly after changing the pump and injectors. Back in my earlier posts that was my #2 suggestion after ATF treatment to clear the smoke. Depending on how far out the timing is, it will smoke and run rough as guts. That is your first step. When you say it still sounds like it is mis-firing, is this different than the knock you heard before or is it still knocking? You said it ran better with new injectors but still smoked, you did not mention if injector replacement got rid of the knock or not.
One other thought... By now almost everyone has bypassed the problematic water separator on the firewall... is yours by chance still hooked up?
As far as throwing parts at it, you have replaced the whole injection system. There really isn't much left to buy. Get it timed, however you can, and see how it runs with proper timing. Then troubleshoot from there if you still have issues. It does not make much sense to guess at other problems until that BIG one is corrected. Timing is everything on these engines, it is like a combined carburetor and distributer in vintage gas engine terms. If not set up right it won't run worth a crap.
One other thought... By now almost everyone has bypassed the problematic water separator on the firewall... is yours by chance still hooked up?
As far as throwing parts at it, you have replaced the whole injection system. There really isn't much left to buy. Get it timed, however you can, and see how it runs with proper timing. Then troubleshoot from there if you still have issues. It does not make much sense to guess at other problems until that BIG one is corrected. Timing is everything on these engines, it is like a combined carburetor and distributer in vintage gas engine terms. If not set up right it won't run worth a crap.
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Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Northern Arizona
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She lives!
Thought I would give all of you guys that helped me some closure while I'm waiting for wifey to get ready.
The smoke is cleared up with proper timing. With new injectors and ip the timing had to be delayed quite a bit. The knock was caused by an air leak in a fuel line connecting to the fuel filter. And the squishy break pedal is a slow leak in the rear drum. I would say case closed but my alternator is starting to squeal and I need new belts.
Merry christmas to all you gear heads out there
Thought I would give all of you guys that helped me some closure while I'm waiting for wifey to get ready.
The smoke is cleared up with proper timing. With new injectors and ip the timing had to be delayed quite a bit. The knock was caused by an air leak in a fuel line connecting to the fuel filter. And the squishy break pedal is a slow leak in the rear drum. I would say case closed but my alternator is starting to squeal and I need new belts.
Merry christmas to all you gear heads out there
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New problem for the experts. (I apologize in advance if this is the wrong area to post)
The symptoms:
Unresponsive breaks; not a hard petal and long breaking time like you would expect from a break booster issue but more akin to a bad master cylinder or leak in the break line etc.
Brake light is constantly on. Petal goes to floor but can be "pumped up". When I do have a nice hard brake petal I can feel it slowly depressing. Yes I have been loosing small amounts of brake fluid.
I have the *** end of the truck up on jack stands with the tires off and have been trying to get at the drums to check out the cylinder but am having one hell of a time. Before I break something with a hammer I need some tips from the more experienced tinkerers of the ford world. I have also looked at the break lines and although they have seen better days I cant see any leak. Also any tips on how to eliminate a bad master cylinder? Oh and one more thing, the rear driver side wheel will not rotate (e-brake off & out of gear with front tires blocked) while the passenger side moves freely. Any chance a leaking cylinder left unattended could cause the breaks to lock up?
The symptoms:
Unresponsive breaks; not a hard petal and long breaking time like you would expect from a break booster issue but more akin to a bad master cylinder or leak in the break line etc.
Brake light is constantly on. Petal goes to floor but can be "pumped up". When I do have a nice hard brake petal I can feel it slowly depressing. Yes I have been loosing small amounts of brake fluid.
I have the *** end of the truck up on jack stands with the tires off and have been trying to get at the drums to check out the cylinder but am having one hell of a time. Before I break something with a hammer I need some tips from the more experienced tinkerers of the ford world. I have also looked at the break lines and although they have seen better days I cant see any leak. Also any tips on how to eliminate a bad master cylinder? Oh and one more thing, the rear driver side wheel will not rotate (e-brake off & out of gear with front tires blocked) while the passenger side moves freely. Any chance a leaking cylinder left unattended could cause the breaks to lock up?
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Stepped away from the project for a moment and now trying to release the breaks using that small hole in the back of the dust plate and turning the wheel with a flathead. Holy smokes its like trying to build a ship inside a glass bottle. Definitely not what I signed up for when I bought the bare bones easy to work on truck. Long story short, the brakes are still engaged on the rear drivers side.