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Dying 7.3...

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Old Oct 22, 2014 | 07:12 PM
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Our 7.3 that we bought without hearing it run was a gamble lol... after replacing the pump and injectors with new, she took for ever to start. Once started it ran ok had good power, ats turbo and r&d pump with sticks.. when starting it hot you have to floor it to get it to fire up, it weak on compression and was seeing if there is a "ring sealer in a can" that's worth a shot?? Rebuild and replacement are out of the question till the first of the year
 
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Old Oct 22, 2014 | 08:28 PM
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Are you saying it starts right up cold, but not hot? Like, just crank-crank-crank no smoke or fire?
Or hard to start both times?

Also, what sort of compression were you seeing? Unless it's down below 300PSI, it should fire right up if everything else is right.

Perhaps you could post a video if you trying to start it?
 
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Old Oct 22, 2014 | 10:33 PM
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From: Manteca
Originally Posted by Macrobb
Are you saying it starts right up cold, but not hot? Like, just crank-crank-crank no smoke or fire?
Or hard to start both times?

Also, what sort of compression were you seeing? Unless it's down below 300PSI, it should fire right up if everything else is right.

Perhaps you could post a video if you trying to start it?
Below 300 cold/hot.. crank, crank, crank.... light white smoke when cold, new ford glows and harness/relay are good. Hot start is crank,crank, crank no smoke. Have the pedal floored for it to start hot or cold, when it's running it does run rather well. Coolant temp normal at 200°f oil pressure perfect, etc.. just lots o blow by when running, worse than my 6.9. I'll post a video this weekend
 
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Old Oct 22, 2014 | 11:19 PM
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I'm wondering about the IP or transfer pump; make sure you're getting good pressure at the filter head whole cranking.
Alternately, if it's not cranking fast enough, that could cause it -- IPs, especially old ones with new injectors have trouble producing enough pressure to actually inject fuel. And the component that would be at fault here, the main distributor/rotor, doesn't usually get replaced during a rebuild due to cost($400 alone).


Do have someone crank while hot and smell the exhaust for fuel -- with it floored, it should definitely smell like unburned diesel.

What does it do if you let the GPs cool down while cold(leave the key on for a minute after it stops clicking) and give it a very light shot of ether?
 
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Old Oct 23, 2014 | 06:40 AM
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with all cylinder below 300 i don't think there is much you are going to able to do to it without a rebuild.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2014 | 09:40 AM
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From: Manteca
Originally Posted by Macrobb
I'm wondering about the IP or transfer pump; make sure you're getting good pressure at the filter head whole cranking.
Alternately, if it's not cranking fast enough, that could cause it -- IPs, especially old ones with new injectors have trouble producing enough pressure to actually inject fuel. And the component that would be at fault here, the main distributor/rotor, doesn't usually get replaced during a rebuild due to cost($400 alone).

Do have someone crank while hot and smell the exhaust for fuel -- with it floored, it should definitely smell like unburned diesel.

What does it do if you let the GPs cool down while cold(leave the key on for a minute after it stops clicking) and give it a very light shot of ether?
She won't even light off on starting fluid... lol that's how low she is. How much fuel should I get out of the Schrader valve while cranking per 10 seconds? The pump is a brand New r&d 90cc
 
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Old Oct 23, 2014 | 11:20 AM
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1/3 pint in 10 seconds of cranking, and 7 lbs pressure.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2014 | 12:10 PM
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Thank you, I don't even think I'm getting that much, 10 seconds of cranking got me I believe a quarter of a quart
 
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Old Oct 23, 2014 | 07:09 PM
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Uh, starting fluid should do /something/. Either 'ether lock' where it doesn't want to crank fast at all, or clatter & crank faster(but perhaps not actually fire); what does it do?
 
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Old Oct 23, 2014 | 11:03 PM
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The two ways I know to breath some life into a dying engine, put a couple quarts of atf in the oil and run it hard. then the last resort is get it hot, they'll start to pop and smoke, after that let it idle and cool back down.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2014 | 02:40 AM
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From: Manteca
Originally Posted by Macrobb
Uh, starting fluid should do /something/. Either 'ether lock' where it doesn't want to crank fast at all, or clatter & crank faster(but perhaps not actually fire); what does it do?
After the glow plugs cool off I give it 3, 1 second sprays of starting fluid. It almost wants to start, rpm picks up for a few cranks and that's it. When it does start you need at least half pedal or more for it to start.. it won't start at idle position even hot,
 
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Old Oct 24, 2014 | 11:44 AM
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Below 300 on the compression will do it, just not enough air to compress. The heat from the compression is so low that not even ether is igniting.


I know that pump had a great Hot cranking spec, so I know its not the pump.


How is the blowby when its running?
 
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Old Oct 24, 2014 | 01:45 PM
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From: Manteca
Originally Posted by RacinNdrummin
Below 300 on the compression will do it, just not enough air to compress. The heat from the compression is so low that not even ether is igniting.

I know that pump had a great Hot cranking spec, so I know its not the pump.

How is the blowby when its running?
Yeah the numbers on that pump are awesome man! When she does run it runs like a raped ape!! Very impressed with the power.. Blow by is a steady stream of white vapor lol looks like something is on fire under the hood when the CDR valve is not hooked up just like my 6.9, but as soon as you bringing the RPM's up you can barely see any blow by, but my 6.9 has a little under 400 pounds of compression, so a little better.. That turbo does a good job of cleaning up unburned fuel though, I have very little hazes at full throttle
 
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Old Oct 25, 2014 | 02:20 PM
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Old Oct 26, 2014 | 10:30 PM
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cranking speed??? get a 4kilowatt starter. spin real fast then...
 
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