2000 ford f250, won't start
#1
2000 ford f250, won't start
Hey guys I have a 2000 ford 7.3 that doesn't want to start, it has a new glow plug relay, new glow plugs,and icp relay, it will start off of ether and run fine, fuel pump seems to come on, fuses are all good, fuel in filter housing, no white smoke at start up, if any it is very little, clicking behind the dash when cranking, and suggestions?
#2
The "clicking behind the dash" makes me think poor battery connections or weak batteries, I would pull the terminals, clean them and have the batts load tested as a start.
And I would stop using Ether...
Aside from that, next would be more info...how many miles on injectors? What are the temps were you are? If you plug in the block heater for a couple hours will it start?
And I would stop using Ether...
Aside from that, next would be more info...how many miles on injectors? What are the temps were you are? If you plug in the block heater for a couple hours will it start?
#3
#5
Do you have a scan tool that can monitor ICP, IPR duty cycle, system voltage and injector pulse width? Not starting without ether can be a symptom of low cranking ICP, or it could be as simple as a fault in the glow plug system. Does it restart with no problem after it's warmed up, or is it about the same?
If you're going to use ether, disable the glow plug system first. Using ether with glow plugs can cause catastrophic damage.
If you're going to use ether, disable the glow plug system first. Using ether with glow plugs can cause catastrophic damage.
#6
#7
Stick a in the cigar lighter, let us know reading when engine off, while cranking, and when running. Should be something like 12v, 10.5v, and 13v.
I'll ante up with BigAl and add a couple semolians, betting on weak batteries. There are two for a reason.
Another idea is use a screwdriver to bridge the big posts on the GPR for around 15 seconds, depending on temps. Only touch the handle, obviously. This should energize the plugs and if the truck starts easy there's a bad wire to the GPR, or bad GPR.
I'll ante up with BigAl and add a couple semolians, betting on weak batteries. There are two for a reason.
Another idea is use a screwdriver to bridge the big posts on the GPR for around 15 seconds, depending on temps. Only touch the handle, obviously. This should energize the plugs and if the truck starts easy there's a bad wire to the GPR, or bad GPR.
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#8
This usually indicates a problem with the glow plug system. Disconnect the Engine Oil Temp (EOT) sensor at the rear of the oil reservoir. This will cause the PCM to energize the glow plug relay for 2 minutes, and set a code.
Turn the key to the run position and check for any voltage drop at the outlet side of the glow plug relay. The voltage should be greater than 10 volts during the glow plug cycle
Additionally, as stated, you need to acquire a tool which will monitor ICP, IPR and DC to rule out those components.
**** If you MUST use starting fluid, disconnect the GPR so the GP's are NOT energized (Hot) when using it. Otherwise, you're tempting fate and, in time, you will acquire a Repair Bill which you don't want.
Turn the key to the run position and check for any voltage drop at the outlet side of the glow plug relay. The voltage should be greater than 10 volts during the glow plug cycle
Additionally, as stated, you need to acquire a tool which will monitor ICP, IPR and DC to rule out those components.
**** If you MUST use starting fluid, disconnect the GPR so the GP's are NOT energized (Hot) when using it. Otherwise, you're tempting fate and, in time, you will acquire a Repair Bill which you don't want.
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08-18-2005 07:15 PM