I have a 2000 E350 box truck with the Triton 6.8L v10. It's developed a slight miss that's only noticeable under highway speeds in overdrive. I suspect one of the coils are acting up, so I'm just going to replace them all. The truck has 143k miles and I'm guessing they're probably original.

I'm no stranger to changing coils, plugs, etc on Ford mod motors. I have a 2000 F350 Super Duty that also has the Triton 6.8L. I have two 99 mustang cobras with the 4v 4.6 as well as a 2004 Crown Vic with the 2v 4.6.

I already know the fundamentals, but I guess what I'm searching for here is some tips and tricks on doing the plugs/coils in the econolines. Half the engine is basically inaccessible without removing the doghouse and going at it from the inside of the cabin.

 

If you already have mod motor plug changing experience the V10 in an E-Series isn't significantly different. I always remove the front seats which is not only easy as pie but once outta there resulting work room is astounding.

IF you go that route it requires only a T55 Torx PLUS socket and an 18MM medium or deep well socket. Keep in mind the T55 needs to be the PLUS designation if you like to do things properly that is.

Plugs I use nothing but the called-for Motorcraft---despite the notion the brand makes little difference anecdotal experience related in the Modular Motor Forums here on FTE repeatedly show MC is the least problematic initially and over time too.

Check the boots---if replacements are needed I use the USA-Made Belden/NAPA #702418, 'bout $5 each. Remember to use a dab of dielectric grease just inside the boot openings, both top and bottom---seals very well.

Another highly controversial subject is anti-seize and final torque. I DO use a nickel-based anti-seize on the MC plug threads. Discuss, debate and disagree with this practice 'til the cows come home but it works for me and has never caused any issues.

Torque with the anti-seize is set at 21-23 ft/lbs via a highly accurate and single purpose torque wrench, beam or click type. There is a thread here on FTE demonstrating the mod motor head plug holes can and do withstand torque as high as 90 ft/lbs so the 50% increase over factory recommended 7-14 ft/lbs is not a concern.

Lastly when or if the COP wiring harness connector is re-inserted a dab of dielectric grease there is also recommended.

How's that for input?

 

Excellent information! Thank you very much. Good tip on removing the seats. I would have never thought of that.

So, I assume that all 10 will be changed from inside the cabin after taking the center console and dog house out of the truck? Or is it a combination of inside and outside? Sorry if that's a bit of a newbie question. This is the first time tearing into the econoline and I'm trying to get a feel for the process before diving right in. I'd rather not waste time removing air breather components and such if not needed.

 

We were all newbies with plug changing in the Modular Motors---trust me it looks far more impossible than it really is.

This is and can be a combo of inside and outside work--after your first go 'round you'll know what works best for you next time.

I've only done the V8's but the front two or four plugs can be done from the front, outside of course. This depends on your arm reach and how willing you are to be bent over reaching into the engine bay. I personally remove the air cleaner housing in order to have max room accessing those plugs from the front. I leave the throttle body duct hose dangling so its easily moved out of the way giving me plenty of room on the left side of the motor.

I know some hate removing things and its entirely possible to change plugs with the air cleaner etc still in place---my personal preference is getting anything out of my way that might even potentially affect my end results. I have nothing but time when I do something like this so that's never an issue for me. Again, just personal preference.

All other plugs are done from inside, pretty easy for the most part. I did post a small write up on the last plug, drivers side located under the fuel rails--very tight spot. Its NOT necessary to disturb the fuel rails but having a good selection of 3/8" or 1/4" extensions and u-joints makes this all pretty easy. (I'll try finding that and post a link in this reply.)

Hope this is helpful.

 

Perfect. I appreciate the tips and advice!