Spark Plugs again
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Junior User
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Spark Plugs again
Hi Guys,
I apologize as I know this topic gets rehashed a lot but I need to ask these questions...
I was going to retorque my plugs this weekend... I have a 2000 V10 with about 37K on the clock... I wasn't planning on changing plugs, just checking torque...
In checking, is it better to break the plug loose (CCW) and retorque or just position the torque wrench on the plugs and torque to specification... I assume that my year V10 with the fewer plug threads is also in the 14 lb ft (168 inch pound area)???
This whole plug thing is a bit unnerving - you don't know if you should just leave well enough alone or try to do preventative maintenance and possibly cause something that may not have happend if you left the motor alone ARG!!
All comments are welcomed...
Nomad27
I apologize as I know this topic gets rehashed a lot but I need to ask these questions...
I was going to retorque my plugs this weekend... I have a 2000 V10 with about 37K on the clock... I wasn't planning on changing plugs, just checking torque...
In checking, is it better to break the plug loose (CCW) and retorque or just position the torque wrench on the plugs and torque to specification... I assume that my year V10 with the fewer plug threads is also in the 14 lb ft (168 inch pound area)???
This whole plug thing is a bit unnerving - you don't know if you should just leave well enough alone or try to do preventative maintenance and possibly cause something that may not have happend if you left the motor alone ARG!!
All comments are welcomed...
Nomad27
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Nomad-- i feel your pain,and delima, I too have a 00 v-10 sduty. Mine spit out the # 10 plug the other day, by the time i got it to dealer and they fixed it i was out 200 bucks for the repair(they helicoiled it). i am thinking about retorqing mine this weekend too, i contacted timesert and their kit for these trucks is 374.80 for the kit with 5 inserts if you get ten they are 9.45 each insert--- heck of a bite,but if you wait for each to blow out then you could spend over two grand on helicoils!! i spoke to my friend who is service manager at the dealership-- he said he would NOT retorqe the plugs if it were him. he sees a few come in a month with blown plugs... so you and i are in same boat....GRAB a PADDLE!!!! let me know how it turns out for you and good luck buddy. Thanks Britt (btw mine has 150,000 miles on it plugs were changed aboout 40,000 miles ago, if that helps)
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From: Long Island USA
I know one thing for certain... If you're going to get all the way into it where you get a socket on the plug enough to check it's torque, GO ALL THE WAY!
Check the plugs for aluminum in the threads when they come out , and check all the holes with an inspection mirror and check the threads in the hole.
Do all the other stuff, spraying some penatrant down the hole, breaking the plug loose, blowing/vacuuming it out, then making sure the plug comes out easy, remove them all, use anti-sieze on reinstall, and use dialectric grease everywhere there is an interface between the plug and the boot, and the boot and the cop, and the boot and the top of the hole.
But that's me. I'd rather do it all, and blame myself if one comes out instead of worrying about it forever.
Check the plugs for aluminum in the threads when they come out , and check all the holes with an inspection mirror and check the threads in the hole.
Do all the other stuff, spraying some penatrant down the hole, breaking the plug loose, blowing/vacuuming it out, then making sure the plug comes out easy, remove them all, use anti-sieze on reinstall, and use dialectric grease everywhere there is an interface between the plug and the boot, and the boot and the cop, and the boot and the top of the hole.
But that's me. I'd rather do it all, and blame myself if one comes out instead of worrying about it forever.
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From: Burnsville, MN
I'll grant that if you find a plug that's loose you might want to remove it to look for a developing problem. But with 37K (and maybe planning to change the plugs at 50K) I don't see any harm at all in just applying force until the torque value is reached.... Just me I guess.....
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Thanks guys - Hummmm - guess I have a decision to make... Well, nothing right now - weather turned cold and the garage is freezing (no heat)... Maybe in the spring I'll look at the issue again and then decide... Thanks again
Nomad27
Nomad27
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Torque should be checked at 80%, not the entire torque value. I don't care what it is. If you check torque on a 100flb bolt with 100 flb of torque you can actually stretch and damage the bolt/threads.
On the aireal equipment I work on they require it to be checked @ 80%. I wouldn't do it any other way even on a set of spark plugs.
On the aireal equipment I work on they require it to be checked @ 80%. I wouldn't do it any other way even on a set of spark plugs.
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From: High Point, NC
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From: Long Island USA
Originally Posted by MarkMoore
I thought they were supposed be at 30 ft of torque?
30ft/lbs comes from some guy who makes his money fixing blown spark plugs, and truth be told, I believe that can be used with an insert-repair, but on the bare aluminum heads, I wouldn't...
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From: Long Island USA
Originally Posted by msbweiland
Torque should be checked at 80%, not the entire torque value. I don't care what it is. If you check torque on a 100flb bolt with 100 flb of torque you can actually stretch and damage the bolt/threads.
On the aireal equipment I work on they require it to be checked @ 80%. I wouldn't do it any other way even on a set of spark plugs.
On the aireal equipment I work on they require it to be checked @ 80%. I wouldn't do it any other way even on a set of spark plugs.
If I'm applying 100ft/lbs when I first tighten it, and 100ft/lbs later, it won't overstretch the bolt. Maybe in your area of expertise, with the bolts that are used in that field, they are torque-to-yield. But for spark plugs, no harm is done by rechecking at 14ft/lbs.
Otherwise, the initial 100ft/lbs would stretch the bolt too...
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: NE Texas
Originally Posted by krewat
This doesn't make a whole lot of sense.
If I'm applying 100ft/lbs when I first tighten it, and 100ft/lbs later, it won't overstretch the bolt. Maybe in your area of expertise, with the bolts that are used in that field, they are torque-to-yield. But for spark plugs, no harm is done by rechecking at 14ft/lbs.
Otherwise, the initial 100ft/lbs would stretch the bolt too...
If I'm applying 100ft/lbs when I first tighten it, and 100ft/lbs later, it won't overstretch the bolt. Maybe in your area of expertise, with the bolts that are used in that field, they are torque-to-yield. But for spark plugs, no harm is done by rechecking at 14ft/lbs.
Otherwise, the initial 100ft/lbs would stretch the bolt too...
That's why we have stressed (no pun intended) here in the V10 forum, that everyone should use just a tad of anti-seize on the threads. These are not precision threads we're dealing with. Even though FORD uses a certain "gage" for the threads, they do not measure each hole with thread micrometers...
I would think that FORD (TRITON) engine manufacturers use a "standard", and then only on a selective basis.