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Stock horn question

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Old Oct 19, 2014 | 06:21 PM
  #1  
Tyler S's Avatar
Tyler S
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Stock horn question

Howdy fellas,

I have this horn (two of them actually, one bigger than the other, harmonic or something).....


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I'm sitting in the family room watching football and assembling our horns. Believe it or not, my wife hasn't said a word about it! She's a keeper! Anyhow after assembly I went out in the garage to test it. It honks loud and clear. But when I touch the ground to the horn it REALLY sparks. I know horns draw a lot of current, but wow! Is that fairly normal? I was afraid to hold the ground wire against the horn case for more than half a heart beat. I don't want to damage the horn in case something is wrong. They're bound to be hard to replace or repair. So, should I be concerned or is that standard due to the high current draw? Thx, Tyler
 
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Old Oct 19, 2014 | 06:49 PM
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Jolly Roger Joe
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From: Rockingham, VA
Originally Posted by Tyler S
Howdy fellas,

I have this horn (two of them actually, one bigger than the other, harmonic or something).....


Attachment 108122

I'm sitting in the family room watching football and assembling our horns. Believe it or not, my wife hasn't said a word about it! She's a keeper! Anyhow after assembly I went out in the garage to test it. It honks loud and clear. But when I touch the ground to the horn it REALLY sparks. I know horns draw a lot of current, but wow! Is that fairly normal? I was afraid to hold the ground wire against the horn case for more than half a heart beat. I don't want to damage the horn in case something is wrong. They're bound to be hard to replace or repair. So, should I be concerned or is that standard due to the high current draw? Thx, Tyler
The horns ground to the frame through the mounting bolts on the hood. I know this because when I took mine off, I broke the ground and the passenger side horn wouldn't work, but the driver's side did work. I tightened the bolts again with some star washers going to the hood for good continuity.

Were you hitting it with 6 volts or 12 volts?
 
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Old Oct 19, 2014 | 07:13 PM
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Tyler S
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Originally Posted by Jolly Roger Joe
The horns ground to the frame through the mounting bolts on the hood. I know this because when I took mine off, I broke the ground and the passenger side horn wouldn't work, but the driver's side did work. I tightened the bolts again with some star washers going to the hood for good continuity. Were you hitting it with 6 volts or 12 volts?
Yep I get where it grounds but don't have it mounted yet, just bench testing it.

I'm picking up what you're putting down tho. My electrical system is 12 V. When I bought the truck it was already converted to 12 and these horns were in place and in use. But I'm thinking I need a 12v voltage regulator like I've got on the back of my 6v instrument cluster, huh? Is that where you're headed? T
 
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Old Oct 19, 2014 | 07:27 PM
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Jolly Roger Joe
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From: Rockingham, VA
Originally Posted by Tyler S
Yep I get where it grounds but don't have it mounted yet, just bench testing it.

I'm picking up what you're putting down tho. My electrical system is 12 V. When I bought the truck it was already converted to 12 and these horns were in place and in use. But I'm thinking I need a 12v voltage regulator like I've got on the back of my 6v instrument cluster, huh? Is that where you're headed? T
Well, not exactly. The originals were made to handle 6 volts, but I've "played" mine on 12 volts when I was refurbing them. I think you shouldn't lean on the horn if pumping 12 volts through them, but they still work. They are quite a bit louder on 12 volts, and the pitch is higher.

I think you got the spark because you need to have a solid connection to the horn frame when applying voltage. Touching it is like reconnecting the battery terminal under load. I used my battery charger to test the horns, and don't remember getting a spark, but that was a long time ago (more than a week).

And, btw, the horn looks cool in chrome!
 
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Old Oct 19, 2014 | 09:14 PM
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Tyler S
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Originally Posted by Jolly Roger Joe
Well, not exactly. The originals were made to handle 6 volts, but I've "played" mine on 12 volts when I was refurbing them. I think you shouldn't lean on the horn if pumping 12 volts through them, but they still work. They are quite a bit louder on 12 volts, and the pitch is higher. I think you got the spark because you need to have a solid connection to the horn frame when applying voltage. Touching it is like reconnecting the battery terminal under load. I used my battery charger to test the horns, and don't remember getting a spark, but that was a long time ago (more than a week). And, btw, the horn looks cool in chrome!
Yeah they look cool! So WILL a 6V regulator or voltage drop thing work? Or are they only for low current draw components like fuel gauges and oil pressure gauges etc? T
 
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Old Oct 20, 2014 | 07:27 AM
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fordf5
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From: Nelsonville, Ohio
First let me say that I am a real rookie and have only done this 1 time.
I run my horns on 12 volt.
When testing them I too experienced those neat sparks.
The horns are energized through the horn relay.
It has been my experience that anything that is run through a relay draws quite a bit of current.
The relay has 3 terminals.
Hot, Horn, and ground.
The relay operates when the ground is supplied from the horn button.
I hope this helps.
......Roger


Bye the way them shiny chrome ones will never work,,,, you should send them to me and I will send my ugly black ones to you...
 
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