Last winter a couple of times after making a semi-sharp 90 degree turn, My rig had very hard steering return. The steering wheel fought being turned back to straight. Within a few yards, or after hitting the breaks hard, it seemed to return freely. Once the steering was straight again it would try to continue to turn in the direction of correction tho. If held in a straight direction, the situation would snap out and glide straight. Pressure on the steering wheel would again build in the direction of the original 90 degree turn, then pop back to a float or un manipulated state.
The steering did this a few times, and I researched the issue here. I had installed a steering stab. this same year and thought it might be binding. Also had a ball joint squeaking. U-joints lubed that fall fully, no dry caps that I could blame a bind on.
The Red Cap power steering units sound like they have fixed many ailing steering situations for this vintage of truck. But as I researched the Shipping to Alaska, The issue never raised its head again till today. All most 7months later?

The Ball join is bad. I have been purchasing all the needed parts to replace as I build back from the new Moog joints, but fear this won’t correct the Issue.
On the drive home today at highway speed 60-65mph , the wheel would gradually build resistance toward the drivers side. The pressure to keep the truck going straight would build, till suddenly the rig would steer toward the guard rail a 1/2 –1’ . All without the steering wheel rotating as far as to miss a item in my path. It never changed sides it wanted to head toward, as it did for the short time last winter at low speed, but.
She did this gradual buildup of preasure 5 times in 10 miles. Once off the highway The issue was gone. Turned the wheels lock to lock several times in the driveway once home, and got no feedback, only the normal need to roll while turning.

Taking The rig out of service, Is my first impression, as well as it might be yours. But I have seen the issue come and go. I wont say I’m prepared for it, but its obvious when it does this.
The rig does have the tail-tail signs of needing a power steering unit. Wont turn the tires at times unless moving and harder than powered others. No leaks to speak of in the system. But I’ll head out and look.

Any rough or.... gentile Ideas?

 

When I had this and the snapping it was from my front ujoints. One was frozen in 1 plane and the other was frozen in both planes. Eventuality the power steering would overcome it. I had 98,000 miles in MN which uses lots of salt. One thing I didn't know was that starting in 2005 the F250 front ujoints have a grease zerk. I was not aware of this and never greased mine.

 

The statement you made that it snapped to the left with no steering wheel movement indicates loose parts. If a ball joint is worn badly enough it could do this. I would also inspect all steering linkage for wear. Wheel bearings as well. Check the front axle u-joints while doing the ball joints. That is a good time to replace them and wheel bearings.

 

I think I would start out with a good flushing of the power steering gear and pump.. The problem is most likely internal to the steering gear and the spool that controls the application of pressure. They can get gummed up just like anything else..
Worse case would be replacement of the steering gear but you may be able to revive the old one..
Agree with the others on a full inspection of the suspension system but it sounds like you have already been there..

 

I had a problem with a gear on an '88 SD. When the steering would dart one direction or another the steering wheel moved also. With the steering wheel not moving when it darts like that points me toward loose or worn parts. It seems mechanical rather than a hydraulic problem. XLnAK has already indicated he's parked until repairs can be made due to ball joint wear. I would fix known problems first.

 

I missed the steering wheel not moving. In my case the steering wheel moved in conjuction with the wheels.

 

Thank you to all for the replies. The pressure to go left, caused me to hold the wheel at about a 10 degree angle right to go straight. When all is seemingly well, the cross bars on the steering wheel are flat horizontal. When it let go/stopped pushing/readjusted or ? , the truck would take the steering input I used to keep it straight, as the direction I wished to go, I guess. Had to recenter to keep it from continuing.
Its been a long time since driving with a bad ball joint. Had a 83 go bad 15 yrs ago, but I don’t remember the wander or steering fluctuation.
We do have awesome ruts in even our best highways. So maybe its reacting to the semi severe ball joint wear.

Big-Foot, Might you have a link handy to a write up or how to on the flush you mention. I might do that after the hard parts are in, and solid.

My U-joints on this 04 are sevicable, and I have hit them a couple times with a grease gun, but I'll take a look at them close, while the shaft on the side I will be working is out. I have a new U-joint in hand incase. I'll be hard pressed to not replace it, even if it seems fine.

Do to pressures to do so, I did drive it to work today. The pressured pull in the steering wheel was much less on the highway at 60. Never did the pressure then popping at that speed. I did feel more misalignment/floating. But trying to feel for it, I did notice it at slow speeds (30-40ish), a pressured bind as yesterdays highway issue. I would do it in both directions tho. Sorta like weaving on a 2" deep rut.
Making a tight turn a few blocks from home. While at the apex of the turn, she felt like I had turned the steering wheel again another half turn. When I had not. Had to manually return steering to center. felt like I fell off the ball joint for sec.

I’ll be breaking bolts on her starting next weekend. Fingers crossed really.
She is broke and I apologize if this sounds like a bunch of belly ache'n. Its the fear that all the parts I will be replacing, wont fix this issue that inspired the post.
Thanks again.

 

Found many links to flushing the system. Amazed I have never done it. Ty

 

You're headed in the right direction. Hopefully the ball joints fix it.

 

Yep it is not that hard. The biggest thing I recommend is to have the front tires off the ground as you cycle the steering back and forth.. Less stress on the tires and the system in general.

 

Lifted the pass. side of the rig today and found a bad lower ball-joint and a frozen U-joint. Ordering a Hub and picking up parts to replace all on that side as well.

 

Worn ball joints will create all kinds of problems, I had a wobble under braking and all kinds of wondering issues not to mention tough steering at low speed. New ones solved my problems hopefully yours too.

 

Thanks Joe, The job of replacing all down to the Ball-joints and back up has been a building operation. I have many of the tools needed and past exp., but planning and prep. have really taken a mountain of time.

 

So far I have found and fixed;
Drivers side--
1) Way loose Lower Ball-Joint (replace top as well)
2) Seized caliper pin
3) Stuck brake pads (will post pics on that one )
4) Hub Assembly (didn't think it was bad till mechanics stethoscope & slight bind in rotation gave away why the grease from the unitized bearings had flown out into the open ). Slight growl, like wedged tire tread creates, is all I look back on as a indication.
5) Outer axle tube seal (just starting to ringlet after 137.000 miles. Why Change to new style? lol )
6) Brake rotor (trashed by the above mentioned items )
7) Lubed auto lock hub.

Really hope the passenger side goes a bit smoother. I'll heat first on all the fasteners this time, and impact that cotter pin in the upper instead of getting surgical.
A special Thanks to all who have posted in all the threads related to Our trucks. Without the helpful incite as to what lies ahead, this type of do-it your self art form might have gone the way of, as stated in the Haynes/Chiltons manuals " If its stuck, take it to a shop" or " This takes a special tool, most ppl don't have, so not covered in this manual"

Will open pandora's passenger side box today. Best wishes.

 

I just went through the same thing with my 07 F350.....it was my front u-joints, even though you say your look ok and take grease. If they have rough spots where the needle bearings ride on the cross they will stick. replaced mine and the truck drives better than anytime since I have owned it. That's my story, hope it helps