The Ford Shop Manuals give good instructions on how to fix most anything on our trucks. They also list the special tools required. Good luck on the other side.

 

Went to lube the inner hub needle bearings for the pass. side last night.
Good thing I looked close before slathering on the grease. Got a bit of grease on the first third of the needle set and tried to give em a push. To my surprise they would not. I then cleaned off my dabbling,and upon close inspection noticed all the needles tilted in the race.
Over installed was my first thought. Maybe a bit to much pressure. I spent a few moments on the why me's, then set about looking for a socket that would work as a remover. I might be able to get the inner bearing local, but the hub i had to 4 day out order. For that reason i grabbed my scribe and started looking for 1 loose needle. poked at the end close to the race on a few them decided to just push each near the inner race fold. After about 6 pokes i heard a defined tick .
Went to the next 6 and got the same tick of the needle, then the whole race began to move.
Long store short, Allways check your needle bearings, new or not. If it can go wrong, it just might .
Off to button up the Pass side.

 

XLnAK did you get the Passenger side finished up. I'm wondering if you fixed your problem. I think I have the start of the same problem. It in intermittent now but I think the writing is on the wall.

 

And then I found and fixed.
Pass. side;
1) Lower ball joint ( loose and dry )
2) Hub Bearing ( Slight binding 2 spots in rotation )
3) U-Joint ( Seized in one Axis ) ( Steering to one side and random hard course correction)
4) Seized Brake Pads ( Pad froze/rusted to Caliper mount )
5) Rotor .012 Warped ( think that's how its wrote . suppost to be .002 or less)
6) Hub Selector in need of cleaning and repacking.

All is back together, still need to torque the wheel ( polished the backs of front set while off). Thinking tonight will be the right time to bed the brakes( less traffic to weird out ) . All though, I really do want to get Er done.


A couple points of interest that I might share.
If doing your Brake pads. Take the extra time to pull the caliper mounting bracket( holds the pads). It incorporates slide/anti-rattle points for the pads. While they can be changed on the rig, What needs to be done at most brake servicing is to file the Iron of the caliper mount where they sit. 3 surfaces at each brake pad contact point. Mine had been Filed at some point, but the rust had grown to the point of seizing both pads on this side. Solid stuck, and no apparent brake grease at contact points of pads-glide.
Camber adjuster on top Ball-joint. Mark its orientation, remove the ball joints, then remove that thing. Clean it and the hole it goes into. It needs to move as freely as it can(up and down) when re-seating the ball joints. Tightening the lower joint pushes upper into this Cam ( or doesn't ). It floats for this reason and gets pulled to set camber if needed when alignments are done.
Many surfaces on our trucks are treated to rezist rust. Be mindfull when cleaning them( mounting points, bolts ), as to give yourself or the next Tech a good chance of repairing again.

Sry, if it seems soap boxy. Off to Bring her, off the stands.

 

Well, After a couple days of driving, I can for sure say it fixed the issues. I think the pull to the side was a stuck solid U-joint. I wouldn't think it would rotate enough to cause that sorta thing but it must have. Random caster/camber might have been a soft wander, but the fight was like getting a fish on.
then it would be fine for a while.
I did the front brakes and got them Bedded in(aka. Burnished), and put new rubber on all four for her as well.

 

Glad u got it fixed. Fish on is fun. Fighting steering not fun. Now u can enjoy driving your truck again.

 

Double post. Sorry.

 

Glad you got 'er straightened out, I can for sure say mine was the stuck u-joint, after the replacement all is well with the world....before that very miserable thing to drive, I like the fish on comparison fits the problem I was having to a T, happy motoring.

 

I was considering getting a newer truck but I think I'm going to keeper a little longer ('07 F350 CC V10 with 34K)I'm getting ready to attack the same issue as well as some other issues...as always thanks for all the useful info!!

 

Well, I didn't pull apart the drivers side after finding the stuck needle bearing in my new pass. side unitized hub bearing Assembly. !
When I drove the rig out the first night, I initialized 4wheel lock and all seemed sweet. Went around a few corners and down the street. Took her out of 4 wheel and grinned.
Popped it in one other time for a few blocks just to check that I had fixed the vacuum slip back into 2 wheel. Found I had not. Might have a vac leak elsewhere.

But today I locked it in at a light, before a hill, about a 1/4 mile from work. By the time I got to the top, the drivers side was howling. I've never had a bad Needle Bearing set, but if I had... that's what I imagine it would of sounded like.
So. I have a source with a few new stub axles for around 80 usd. A new set of seals. Might need a u-joint. arrrg.

Any chance anyone might have a part#(or vendor part #) for the needle bearing. Any chance Timkin uses a diff needle Bearing other than stock replacement?

I should of pulled the drivers side back off and checked em. live and learn.

 

It's hard to follow your post with the length. Basically what is the problem now.

 

Sorry its such a read.
The needle bearing in the drivers side, new hub bearing assembly, are locked up.

 

Bummer, if the stub axle is good and they are lubed they should last a very long time.

 

I may have the same problem. How can I tell if it is a seized u-joint? It typically only pulls hard to the left. The problem is sporadic. I may be able to drive fr hundreds of miles, with no issues at all. Then, possibly under hard braking, ad a slow seed turn, the wheel will jerk in my hand, as the truck pulls hard to the left...and then there is some scary wandering. It may, then, go away, as soon as it same. Will greasing the current u-joints help, or must they be replaced? Looking for any troubleshooting, and repair advice, please. I have a 05 PSD 4x4.

 

Dry ball joints will cause this sort of steering issue as well as most all the other items listed.Not likely the cause of the O P's problem though as he replaced the b/joints fairly recently and they are probably greasable.