I'll run up the hill and measure mine tomorrow. While we are talking measurements, I found a 1960 F250 today and I'm thinking donor for the axles. I don't want to run the old 50s 3/4 ton banjo that's in it and I'm wondering if anyone has the width on a 60 F250 rear end. The 50s rear end seems to be a nice fit width-wise.
I'm also toying with the idea of making my back doors. Only do a drop gate and lift hatch. I'm going to get some measurements of the bottom and start looking at some old trunk lids for the skin.

 

Thanks, That would be helpful. I think in terms of 4 layers of 1/8" plywood laminated over a temporary form. I have a vacuum glue press that handles 4x8 sheets. Bust out the jig saw and you're almost there! The one in my photos has doors thankfully, and it isn't mine yet, just a prospect.... As far as your question, did you find a '60 with an earlier rear in it or is that a typo? I have a '58 f600, a 59 f350 and a 60 f350 parts truck. None would have your measurements.

 

No, I was just saying that old (what I think s early 50s) banjo rear that someone cobbled under the panel is a nice fit. The 60 has the original (dana 60?) rear. I basically wonder what the track width is on a 60, compared to a 50, compared to the 40.

 

about 47 inches between the wheel wells. But you could build a little rack to haul full sheets above the wheel wells, there would be plenty of room then and you could slide other stuff under.

 

Thanks for measuring! Whatever it takes... I just hate looking at this perfectly square, white grumman aluminum stepvan. I have to arrange taking all my old timey truck photos, so it doesn't show up in the background. Besides I have a long history with tonners and haven't owned one for quite a while now.The Panel I'm focusing on right now has a smashed hood, the rear axle is split down the middle of the banjo and engine stuck. I have a good '47 tonner rear axle under a trailer, an excellent '47 hood and 2 59 AB flatheads that are tested crack free. I'm the perfect candidate for this particular wreck.

 

The rear track widths of SRW trucks of the 40s/50s/and 60s will all be the same at 60" plus a fraction. All have 34" wide rear frames so that spring pads should also align nicely. Stu

 

Thanks truckdog

 

I have a rear axle from a '47 tonner pickup with 7.50 x 17s on it. I'm supposed to walk a bit each day, so thought I might go measure distance between rear tires. There is often quite a bit of space between the inner sidewall of the tire and the wheel well to allow for snow chains etc. I'm thinking maybe a spacer of 1/4-3/8 plate along with sectioning of the wheel wells might get that 48 1/2". It really is critical for me. Twice a month 4 or 5 of us small time cabinet shops meet a delivery truck that comes from the mainland with our plywood supply for cabinets. Very often it is raining that day. Also we often buy 20-30 sheets of 3/4" at a time. I have built over the top of wheel well frames for our stepvan and my old '38 tonner, but then they are always in the way for other purposes. There is no substitute for a ton of plywood sitting flat on the floor. My 33 year old employee cannot figure out why I just don't buy a later model van like an E250 like all the other cabinetmakers haul their plywood and cabinets in. Sometimes I wonder why myself..... Take this for instance..... Hmmmmm http://bellingham.craigslist.org/cto/4722271202.html

 

GB, one of the reasons I was pondering replacing the huge ugly spare tire indentation with another door, well 2 reasons. One is to get rid of the spare indent and the other is that I am so used to my Aerostar that I don't want to give up the convenience of the side loading. The Aerostar is my main daily transportation and my picking van. I want to replace it with the panel and will already be sacrificing the 4wd. I have even considered some sort of 4wd on the panel but I hate the look of newer axles that are too wide on most those conversions. Ah, well, it will be a few months before winter is over and I delve into the project. Time will tell what kind of ideas and parts settle here by then.
It sounds like a good cargo trailer might do you well, then you could use any of your vintage fleet to haul the big loads of plywood.

 

Those Desert Classics dudes are on drugs. 6 grand for that heap? It's in worse shape than mine.

 

Those two aren't even in the running. Way too much $. I agree they are wasting their time. As far as running gear/axles, I have done a lot of measuring and planning over the years on the use of toyota landcruiser axles and running gear for a transplant into an old ford. They are six lug, but the axles and pumpkins and general size of everything is much more like a US built 3/4 ton. They are very common, as the bodies rust beyond repair on the older ones. The track width is within 1/2" of that on my '47 half ton. Even engine and firewall location is close. I have a '79 fj 55 wagon that has power steering, power disc brakes, manual 4 spd, 4wd, 3.73 axles. The fj 60 wagon from '80 to '89 is also very similar. I have one nice fj 60, but another that is a rare canadian diesel with no title and 5 speed manual trans. The '79 and the diesel are both very rusty, but frames are ok. Either would need to be stretched 2" or so to do a frame swap with the '47 half ton. The toyota inline six is a legendary engine and is a metric cheb 235 clone. I would never use a ranger or s10 frame, when these heavy beasts are on CL for about 1000.00-2000.00 in running condition. As far as the 15" wheels looking small in the tonner's fenders, I have always run 33 x 9.50 x 15s, which are tall and skinny and measure a full 33" OD. A 7.50 x 17 measures 34". Someday soon you will see me doing a toyota axle swap, or a frame swap on something using one of these frames.

 

Here's my '79. This has 7.50 x 16s on Non-USA toyota split rims. I have owned it since 1984 and was my family car through the 4 kids. They all learned to drive in it. I washed and waxed it regularly and loved it. Drove it coast to coast 3 times with the kids and one time we pulled a 15' travel trailer. I de-smogged it using all Toyota components as would be used on an overseas market vehicle. It starts and runs nicely, needs brakes. It gets used about 3 or 4 times a year these days to get up and down our mountain road during snows. OK, I have dwelled on these Japanese rigs long enough here. Let's get back to the panels....

 

Is your diesel 24 volt? I had a customer in Alaska with one but it got too hard to find parts for up there, she had to order everything out of Canada. Days before internet.
Are the FJ axles better than the regular pickup axles? I can pick up a set of those dirt cheap and the power steering box, pump, hoses are all still hanging off the front axle.

 

The fj axles are beefier, and I would assume wider. I would say the pickup axles are probably up to the task for normal use. My employee has a '94 tacoma in front of the shop. I could have him measure outside of wheel to wheel on his and on a cruiser here. We could know real soon. And we know their power steering is good stuff. That could be a great setup for you. His has IFS and I think that started in about '87. I would want the solid axle if it was me. Oh, and my diesel is 12 volt 4 cyl NA 3.7 liters. Came over from Canada. About as rusty as the '79, runs perfect, paid a grand for it, alas, no title.... Edit: His tacoma is 69" outside the rear tires, my '84 fj 60 wagon is 66". We both noted his tires are considerably wider. His are on stock toyota 16" cast aluminum wheels, mine are on earlier fj 40 steel wheels with hubcaps. Lots of 6 lug wheel types out there with different offsets. Chev and toyota interchange. Sometimes I need to cut the center hole bigger for the front hub. Never seen anything anywhere where people have put toyota gear under an old american truck, but it's a natural. Looks like Mark's drawing on bottom of page 1 showing out side of body width at top would line up nicely in the fenders. What is that dimension on your rear tires?

 

According to the brochure that I posted photos of, the 8' tonner bed for '46 has 48 3/8" between the wheel wells. I would imagine that the panel is narrower because the body was a carry over from 1940. They probably didn't sell enough tonner panels to justify changing the body when they widened the axle in '42. I bet you would have plenty of room to modify the wheel wells to get over 48" between them. At least it sounds like a plan to me. Old trucks can add a lot of cool factor to your business .
BTW I went thru your build thread on your '59 F350 Cummins swap, Very nice build!
Mark