Fuel pressure problem
#1
Fuel pressure problem
To start i have dual tanks and run off the rear tank only, as if I try to run off front tank it fills the back one.
Now I got a fuel pressure gauge hooked it up, and turned key on and nothing, no pressure. The pump does its 2 or 3 second cycle. even tried it on front tank and nothing. Try to start truck and pressure comes up and engine starts but never goes above 32lbs on either tank. Remove FPR vacuum and pressure goes up to 40lbs.
Then shut the engine off and gauge goes to zero in about 5 seconds.
Ok, now where should i start? FPR, or looking for a leak like injectors? Not happy right now.
Now I got a fuel pressure gauge hooked it up, and turned key on and nothing, no pressure. The pump does its 2 or 3 second cycle. even tried it on front tank and nothing. Try to start truck and pressure comes up and engine starts but never goes above 32lbs on either tank. Remove FPR vacuum and pressure goes up to 40lbs.
Then shut the engine off and gauge goes to zero in about 5 seconds.
Ok, now where should i start? FPR, or looking for a leak like injectors? Not happy right now.
#3
What year is that truck? I wonder if we get the fuel pumps to run continuously (like they do when the engine is running) if they'll ever build pressure. That would help point us in the right direction.
Now before we do that, I noticed you said you run off the rear tank only but were trying to test pressure from the front.
Is there any fuel in that front tank?
Now before we do that, I noticed you said you run off the rear tank only but were trying to test pressure from the front.
Is there any fuel in that front tank?
#4
What year is that truck? I wonder if we get the fuel pumps to run continuously (like they do when the engine is running) if they'll ever build pressure. That would help point us in the right direction.
Now before we do that, I noticed you said you run off the rear tank only but were trying to test pressure from the front.
Is there any fuel in that front tank?
Now before we do that, I noticed you said you run off the rear tank only but were trying to test pressure from the front.
Is there any fuel in that front tank?
Now if i keep on cycling the fuel with the key but not starting the motor, it will build up to 35lbs after about 6 or 7 cycles, but if i stop cycling the pump and in about 3 secounds goes right to zero lbs. Now that works exactly the same on either the front or back tanks(same results either)
Yes there is fuel in front tank, I use that tank as my reserve, when back tank get low I run off front tank just for 5 or 10 minutes and it fills back tank.
#5
Should i change out the FDM on the rear tank seems that is the tank that receives fuel from the front one or should I change the entire pump and FDM? Maybe that will increase fuel pressure and maintain fuel pressure after key off for more then 3 seconds as it does now.
Or should I lean toward rebuilding all the injectors?
I believe maybe one or both of these are the cause of my little rough idle i have, and longer cranking to start??? As i find if I cycle the key 3 or 4 times then the truck starts right up, but still a little rough idle.
Or should I lean toward rebuilding all the injectors?
I believe maybe one or both of these are the cause of my little rough idle i have, and longer cranking to start??? As i find if I cycle the key 3 or 4 times then the truck starts right up, but still a little rough idle.
#7
Trending Topics
#8
If running the front tank is filling the rear tank, you have a problem with the tank selector valve. Replace it.
If you want to test your pump, ground the fuel pump test connector at the EECIV test connector. It will engage the fuel pump relay continuously if the key is on.
Yes, a leak at the selector valve could bleed off fuel pressure.
If you want to test your pump, ground the fuel pump test connector at the EECIV test connector. It will engage the fuel pump relay continuously if the key is on.
Yes, a leak at the selector valve could bleed off fuel pressure.
#9
If running the front tank is filling the rear tank, you have a problem with the tank selector valve. Replace it.
If you want to test your pump, ground the fuel pump test connector at the EECIV test connector. It will engage the fuel pump relay continuously if the key is on.
Yes, a leak at the selector valve could bleed off fuel pressure.
If you want to test your pump, ground the fuel pump test connector at the EECIV test connector. It will engage the fuel pump relay continuously if the key is on.
Yes, a leak at the selector valve could bleed off fuel pressure.
#10
If you have 2 tanks, you have a selector valve. Yours will be electrically operated, but it does actually switch between the 2 independant fuel pumps in the front and rear tanks. It also switches the electrical power between the front and rear tank pumps as well as the gas gauge signal.
Good explanation of it here;
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...tor-valve.html
Good explanation of it here;
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...tor-valve.html
#11
If you have 2 tanks, you have a selector valve. Yours will be electrically operated, but it does actually switch between the 2 independant fuel pumps in the front and rear tanks. It also switches the electrical power between the front and rear tank pumps as well as the gas gauge signal.
#12
#13
So back to my previous question. If the FDM/ check valve is not closing on my rear tank allowing front tank to fill the rear. Will that cause my fuel pressure to not build up quickly and also bleed off real quick when you turn key off?
#14
Yes. It absolutely will, and can also cause low fuel pressure even while running. This is what was happening with mine.
#15
I really hope this will fix a few problems I have been having since I bought this thing six months ago. I have had a little rough idle and slight hesitation under light throttle only. And also long cranks to start unless you cycle key and fuel pump on and off 3 or 4 times quickly then start ups are quick.