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$1000 spark plug change

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Old Oct 10, 2014 | 08:25 AM
  #31  
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I followed all the advice, spent $200 on tools and it took all day laying on the motor. If I did it again, I'd think real hard about paying $1000 instead.



 
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Old Oct 10, 2014 | 09:04 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by dkf
Really using mileage is a crappy way to tell when maint should be done, engine hours is far better. I have experienced rougher idle at startup, misses and more than normal detonation on modulars at as little as 50k. A plug changed fixed it. However those engines have higher hours for the miles.

As for the 3V plug design, talk about an idiot that designed those. If they would have designed the plug right and machined the lower portion of the plug out of one piece it would have been much better and lead to much less breakage issues. But welding the plug body together coupled with the much longer than need be body and they stick and break. For got it right later in 08' (probably copied the plugs Dodge was using in the hemi) and then axed the engines in a couple years anyway. Bravo.
I just wanted to give this a thumbs up. . I used my Expedition as a transport vehicle and as a in field generator, comfort (AC or heat) for long period of idling while going over schematics ect. It was a mobile office. Because of that the 5.4L saw tons and tons of idling. at 91K when I pulled plugs, they were completely shot, horribly. Completely toasted. Saw some mileage increase when I replaced them, as well as more straightforward power (my idling was starting to waver).

Check your engine hours if you do alot of work with your truck.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2014 | 09:55 PM
  #33  
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I have a 2008 V10-F350. Has 120k on the clock.

I'm scared to death about these plugs. So... One more time -

If my spark plug boots are certain colt from the factory that should tell me if they installed a one piece or two piece plug right?

What are those colors?
 
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Old Oct 10, 2014 | 10:10 PM
  #34  
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i don't think it matters.

the v10's don't break plugs when you take them out.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2014 | 11:44 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by shot93
I run Marvel Mystery oil in every tank of fuel. Don't know if it helps. Does not seem to hurt anything. DKF, I like your by line.
SEAFOAM.......
 
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Old Oct 11, 2014 | 07:26 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by meborder
i don't think it matters.

the v10's don't break plugs when you take them out.
Yes they do, see below. All 3V V10s made before 10/9/07 were effected. See below for the TSB!

Originally Posted by Dogmann
SEAFOAM.......
Or you could avoid snake oil altogether.
 
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File Type: pdf
3V spark plug TSB.pdf (497.9 KB, 1092 views)
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Old Oct 11, 2014 | 07:32 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by meborder
i don't think it matters.

the v10's don't break plugs when you take them out.

I thought it mattered! That's what this thread is about. :/
 
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Old Oct 11, 2014 | 08:23 AM
  #38  
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seafoam is about the farthest thing from snake oil on the shelves.

lots of them are, but seafoam is not.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2014 | 04:07 PM
  #39  
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My truck was born in 04/2008
 
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Old Oct 11, 2014 | 06:02 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Dogmann
My truck was born in 04/2008
I *think* you'll be fine but I'm not sure. Not sure how long engines sit in storage before being installed, but I don't think it's more than a month or two. If that's the case you should have the updated design.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2014 | 06:11 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by meborder
seafoam is about the farthest thing from snake oil on the shelves.

lots of them are, but seafoam is not.
"One bottle for everything" is snakeoilish. Engine technology and components have advanced, Seafoam not so much. I was never impressed with it when I used it.


My truck was born in 04/2008
See post #28. The switch was made towards the end of the year in 2007. With a 4/2008 you should have the updated design.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2014 | 06:32 PM
  #42  
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My 2005 f 150 7 out 8 broke and 6 hours to change . 13 bucks a plug . 97000 miles
 
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Old Oct 11, 2014 | 06:59 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Dogmann
I have a 2008 V10-F350. Has 120k on the clock.

I'm scared to death about these plugs. So... One more time -

If my spark plug boots are certain colt from the factory that should tell me if they installed a one piece or two piece plug right?

What are those colors?
Just to set the record straight----If you have a 2008, late built 5.4 or a V-10 and you have brown rubber boots that extend from the coil to the plug---you don't have one thing to worry about when it come to changing your plugs. If the boots are black, you could have a problem with them. I changed mine at 115K and it had the brown boots. By the way, I checked the gap of the old plugs I removed, and it was about .065. The factory setting was .041. That much had burned of the platinum plug electrodes in 115K. In my opinion, that's a good enough reason to change your plugs, because wide gaps cause the coil packs to burn prematurely.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2014 | 10:10 PM
  #44  
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Just a suggestion from the aviation community- when installing plugs, use a tiny bit of anti-seize on the threads.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2014 | 10:39 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by tazaxx
Just a suggestion from the aviation community- when installing plugs, use a tiny bit of anti-seize on the threads.
Some people on here swear by it and others say stay away from it. Personally, I use it on mine. It increases the pressure on the threads, so you have to adjust your torque accodingly so you don't over torque it. I think it is around 10%, which on these plugs is only about a 1 lb difference.
 
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