So I found this booster set up on a 74 dentside 1/2 ton at the wreckers. I mocked it up and the throw of the push rod and hook up work perfect for my 68's brake pedal (was std brakes). It's also a smaller diameter, around 9 1/2". Problem was that when I went on line to source a new one I couldn't find this one. I eventually found it under the following applications: 70-72 F350; 73-76 F250, F350. Thought I would share.

 

Just in case ya need to know Uni, 73/75 F100 4X4 with power drum brakes took the small 8.94" booster. Part number D3TZ2005B.
Ford had SOOOO many part numbers of boosters in Bumps and Dents (Partsman's nightmare) that of course They gave different numbers to the heavier trucks. D6TZ2005H replaced D4TZ2005A which replaced C9TZ2005C. These covered:
71-72 F250 4X2 with disc.
69 from serial number E38,001-72 F350 with disc.
71-72 F350 with drum.
73-76 F250 4X2 with dual piston calipers.
73-76 F350 with disc brakes.

 

That 8-3/4" dual-diaphragm booster is the same style I put on my '69 F-100. I pulled mine from a '75 F-350. I turned the donor booster in as a core for a newly rebuilt booster from O'Reilly Auto Parts.



This is the booster I got from O'Reilly's about two and a half years ago.

BrakeBest 54-73112 - Power Brake Booster | O'Reilly Auto Parts

...The ugly factory lines to the MC will get redone soon. In fact, that 'conventional' style MC is coming off too, to be replaced by the new, modern MC I just picked up at NAPA a few minutes ago. --the MC on the left in the following photo.



The new MC fitted up on the booster to check things out.

 

OK EVERYBODY here goes...Afew years back i got a 72 donor wreck and swapped out the power steering and power brakes into my 68 3/4 ton camper special. After a couple of years the booster diaphram lost vacume. i took it to a local rebuilder, had it redone and then found out that is was a booster from a General Motors product! It works fine and only took a few small adjustments to get it to fit the firewall. Just thought I'd throw that out there if your looking for other donors than Ford.

 

Look nice and clean install.
But yrs down the road when a new owner has it and goes to the parts store to get a new MC and can't find a look a like replacement. Guess he & the pats man will be scratching their heads wondering what in the world is that from.

It seem every new owner of a classic vehicle goes through something like this when needing replacement parts.

And everyone looks for a unmolested truck when shopping for a classic one of these..

orich

 

Unless some unfortunate event happens that forces me to sell the truck, I intend to have it until I keel over. After that, whatever happens to it will be for my family to decide its fate.

I'm not doing anything to it that can't be reverted back to original. It's all bolt-on stuff. I'm a bit of a perfectionist and a detail freak so, none of the changes I make to the truck will be shoddy in quality or in craftsmanship.

I can't be too concerned about the next possible, potential owner. I'm more concerned about making my truck more reliable and more comfortable to operate for the current owner --me. All of the parts I've installed didn't necessarily come from a 5th generation pickup but, they are upgrade components from other Ford models --some older, some much newer. Some parts were from other Ford trucks. Some parts were from Ford cars but, it's still all Ford.

However, whatever ultimately becomes of the truck, the next owner won't have a problem knowing what changes I've made. All they will have to do is look in the glove box and they'll find a Zip-Loc bag containing receipts, along with a list I've written out of the conversion parts and what vehicle they were originally from, along with their corresponding parts store part numbers, where applicable. It will be so simple, a caveman will understand it.

If they don't, then possibly they are too dense to take on the responsibility of owning a vehicle like this and possibly they should stick to walking or public transportation.

 

My truck and any vehicle I've had in the past I always keep a book documenting everything done, especially any mods. It puts a buyer at ease when he comes to look.

 

Okay Sound like all bases are covered.
I'm the same way making upgrade but keep it to a point where it can be retuned to stock factory wise for the most part.

Other then the disc brakes axle. Simple return even for the nv4500 5sd.
Also have a shoe box full of receipts for the pass 36 yrs well missing a number of battery/belts /hoses receipts I've cleaned them out..

I once bought a 55 ford 2dr. cp that someone pieced together from many yrs & models. Could not just go buy a part for it as nothing would fit. Had to always take the old parts with me to match them up. What a pain in the azz that was. I thought, Damn, I'll never do that to with out leaving info for the next owner even if it is my son.

orich

 

One thing I have learned, in more recent years, is to keep your parts store receipts away from air and light. The newer paper/ink they use has a peculiar tendency for the ink to just magically disappear over time.

If it's a lifetime warranty part, it's hard to take the part back when you have a blank piece of paper in your hand (really convenient for them, I guess, and probably why they have gone to this type of receipt).

I keep all my receipts in a Zip-Loc bag. Just before I completely close it, I press down on the bag to evacuate the air inside it. The glove box is a good place to keep it and it's dark in there. I have every receipt for my truck from the past 3 and a half years (when I first bought the truck). Even the oldest receipts are still crisp and completely legible with no fading.

 

10-4 on a blank receipts Walmart was good for that on there battery receipts.

I also keep in zip lock bags flatten before closing them. One for the engine, and one for the body stuff & one for the tranny stuff.

But don't keep the old veh. registration lic. fee card. yr after yr like some guys. I stopped after 10 yrs owning the truck and now is 36 yrs would be a bit to much paper crap to keep and for what to see how I getting screw more & more each as my truck gets older. Thanks to all these guys who like to **** away the tax money. Hell the Lics. fees just keeps going up here in California almost every yr.

orich

 

I scan my receipts and print them out so even if the store receipt fades I have a copy.

 

The reason those receipts fade is that they are printed on thermal paper and the characters on the paper are burnt into it by the printer. Thus when they get in sunlight, it burns the characters right back out.

I scan mine and print them on to 8 1/2 X 11 sheets and keep them in a binder for each vehicle I own.

 

Unfortunately, some places won't honor a scanned copy because it isn't the original document.

A Zip-Loc bag and darkness will keep the original receipts from fading out.

 

So whats the part number of this master cylinder, and also, does the fitting closet to brake booster go to front brakes?

 

1995 Ford Explorer MC, 1-1/16" bore diameter. NAPA part number NMC M3246 (non-ABS, non-cruise control). The MC ports are for ISO metric bubble flare fittings. M10 x 1.0 and M12 x 1.0.

The metric brake line fittings for the '95 Explorer MC can be bought through Classic Tube --p/n ST8036 for the M10 x1.0 fitting and p/n ST8040 for the M12 x1.0 fitting. The spiral wrap/gravel guard to go over the 3/16" brake tubing (if you wanted to add that) can also be purchased through Classic Tube in either OE steel or is also available in stainless steel as well.

MC port closest to the firewall goes to the primary side of the brake system (front brakes). MC port closest to the radiator goes to the secondary side (rear brakes).