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Old Oct 4, 2014 | 10:06 AM
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Dual Battery Install

Howdy Everyone!

I've been tossing around the idea of installing a second battery in my truck. It's a 2011 F250 6.2l

I came across this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2011-2012-2013-2014F-250-F-350-FORD-SUPER-DUTY-TRUCK-SECOND-BATTERY-TRAY-BOX-KIT-/111476731495?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19f487ee67&vxp=mtr
It's pretty much the only kit I can find.

I am curious, besides installing the tray and hooking up the second battery (It's called in series right? Red to Red Black to Black hookup), is there anything else I need to consider?

Is my stock alternator ok? I have read on a few sites about installing an isolating relay. Not really sure and why.

I am hoping to hear some feedback and ideas from you guys!

Thanks
 
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Old Oct 4, 2014 | 10:30 AM
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If I recall...What do you want to do? Add second battery to the general circiuitry for cranking and the workload or put in an isolation battery to carry a load separate from the normal circujitry? The isolation setup is generally used to support a separate workload like a camper to reserve the primary battery for the truck. The concept being you can't kill the primary battery from a secondary isolated load. Two separate and different installs...
 
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Old Oct 4, 2014 | 10:37 AM
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I just want to add a second battery I suppose for peace of mind. I was just doing some reading and see that the idolater is just for what you described.

I'm not looking to power a butt load of other things while "protecting" the main battery. I plan on installing an upgraded sound system and a bunch of lights on the truck, so figured it wouldn't hurt to have the second battery in there as a buffer per say and to serve as a big 'ol capacitor for when the base drops

Looks like just adding the second battery and hooking up the cables is all I really need to do.

I'm still not sure though if it'll hurt my alternator in anyway.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2014 | 01:43 PM
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I wouldn't connect a second battery in series. You are probably thinking of parallel.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2014 | 02:03 PM
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Thanks for the reply.

Might've been a typo. But yeah Parallel is when you connect Positive to Positive on battery and negative to negative correct?
 
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Old Oct 4, 2014 | 02:12 PM
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Try this link...Good luck
How to: Connect two batteries in parallel | Caravan Chronicles
 
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Old Oct 4, 2014 | 02:25 PM
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Thanks for that diagram!

Any ideas about the alternator and if it'll be fine?
 
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Old Oct 4, 2014 | 04:11 PM
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Don't thank me...Thank the guy that wrote that article by clicking on the rating at the top,,,
I can't speak definitively, but I don't think the battery install will have much impact, since once the batteries are charged from an initial cranking load, they don't place much load on the alternator. it's your other loads that are the constant drain on the alternator...Someone smarter than me needs to weigh in on this or perhaps you can search on something like " dual battery load on alternators" or some such? good luck

Just found this (among others) by that search (above)...Good luck...regards

http://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discussion-t4220_ds539682
 

Last edited by yukondiesel; Oct 4, 2014 at 04:15 PM. Reason: updcate
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Old Oct 4, 2014 | 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by nagetech
Thanks for that diagram!

Any ideas about the alternator and if it'll be fine?

Or this link...Sounds like there are a LOT of (conflicting) opinions out there...

https://answers.yahoo.com/question/i...8142015AAcujVB
 
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Old Oct 4, 2014 | 05:34 PM
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on my 2005 f-250 I installed an E series battery box under the truck mounting it to the passenger side chasis. I ran the red wire to the hot side of the starter main winding leaving the run from the engine compartment battery in place. neg went to the frame. worked very well and space was not a problem.


plan on doing the same with my 2008 f-350.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2014 | 12:34 AM
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Definitely do NOT connect them in series, voltage adds in series, so a new 12 volt battery in series with your existing battery, will result in 24 volts, and fry most of your electrical loads.

Connected in parallel, the amperage of the two batteries will add, but only under ideal conditions, otherwise the results will be less, and possibly worse than what you started with, depending on things like battery sizes, internal resistance, etc.

But like said in earlier posts, to gain the advantage of a second battery, you really need to install an isolator. This way, if one battery goes bad, or is run down by leaving something on without the engine running, the second battery can still be used to start the truck. Without the isolator, the load will drain both batteries.

If you are not going to isolate the batteries, and you still feel you need the added power of an additional battery, it would work better if you simply removed the original battery, installed a larger battery tray, and installed a single battery with a higher ampere hours rating.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2014 | 04:26 PM
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I looked into the same kit on ebay, but opted for a larger single battery with a high idle switch. My plow draws huge amp when lifting, and between jobs I run the high idle at 1500 rpm for charging. Worked very well last year. The 6.2l 157a alternator provides about 100 amps between 1500-2000 engine rpm.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2014 | 05:38 PM
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I've had to"rescue" guys who killed their batteries to the point where the truck actually stalled while they were plowing driveways. The lights and the constant plow up/down/left/right was just too much load. A second or larger battery, unless the second is isolated is just staving off the inevitable. You really need the alternator capacity for that kind of load. The load for a sound system sounds like it's completely different.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2015 | 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by nagetech
Howdy Everyone!

I've been tossing around the idea of installing a second battery in my truck. It's a 2011 F250 6.2l - I came across this: 2011 2012 2013 2014F 250 F 350 Ford Super Duty Truck Second Battery Tray Box Kit | eBay
It's pretty much the only kit I can find.

Thanks
Thanks for the tip - really nice kit. Installed it Saturday and put the battery in today... well built, very professional, high quality kit!

 
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Old Mar 10, 2015 | 12:10 PM
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red to red and black to black is parallel. increases CCA's and amp hours. both drain at the same time.

using an isolator will let you use one battery for start, and another for options that run on 12V. lets you drain the accessory battery and protect your main so that you have enough to start.

Under chasis parallel is pretty easy. metal box mounted at chasis. you can run the red right to the thick starter terminal. you do not have to run the red all the way up to the main battery.
 
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