cancer spreading
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
cancer spreading
hello all,
I purchased a 74 f-250 back in nov '01.....
rust was visible on the top of the exterior cab,
above the windshield.....
question is:
I've seen most posts say that the metal should be
cut out, others have some pretty interesting methods
(spray fiberglass,etc)
I love that damn truck, but the cancer is spreading...
what to do???
I'll post some pics when I figure out how to use this damn digitial camera!!!
thank ya much
kv
I purchased a 74 f-250 back in nov '01.....
rust was visible on the top of the exterior cab,
above the windshield.....
question is:
I've seen most posts say that the metal should be
cut out, others have some pretty interesting methods
(spray fiberglass,etc)
I love that damn truck, but the cancer is spreading...
what to do???
I'll post some pics when I figure out how to use this damn digitial camera!!!
thank ya much
kv
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,297
Likes: 3
From: Billings MT
cancer spreading
Welcome to FTE.
First off, I highly recommend cutting out the cancer. To help explain why, imagine that the metal is like a notebook full of paper. All you are doing with painting, fiberglassing, whatever is covering the outside surfaces. The rust is still inside the middle of the notebook, and will eventually eat it's way back to the outside. Now, some of these methods work and will for many years, but the only way to make sure that the rust is gone is to cut out the affected area.
That's my .02 worth anyway.
Good luck on your quest, and I am sure someone else will be along to help. This is only my opinion. I don't do body work, but know much about metal and the corrosive nature of it. Also, if you are restoring a vehicle, I would hate for a magnet not to stick to it.
First off, I highly recommend cutting out the cancer. To help explain why, imagine that the metal is like a notebook full of paper. All you are doing with painting, fiberglassing, whatever is covering the outside surfaces. The rust is still inside the middle of the notebook, and will eventually eat it's way back to the outside. Now, some of these methods work and will for many years, but the only way to make sure that the rust is gone is to cut out the affected area.
That's my .02 worth anyway.
Good luck on your quest, and I am sure someone else will be along to help. This is only my opinion. I don't do body work, but know much about metal and the corrosive nature of it. Also, if you are restoring a vehicle, I would hate for a magnet not to stick to it.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
cancer spreading
thanks jbalestri for the quick response.....
dagnabit, I was afraid that was the solution...
as most will tell by the post, I am not looking forward to cutting her up!!!
anyone out there know of a good site to buy emblems/nameplates (f-250,etc.)....besides e-bay?!?!
dagnabit, I was afraid that was the solution...
as most will tell by the post, I am not looking forward to cutting her up!!!
anyone out there know of a good site to buy emblems/nameplates (f-250,etc.)....besides e-bay?!?!
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 999
Likes: 1
From: Willamette Valley Oregon
cancer spreading
As a general rule...
If the rust has made holes in the metal, it's time to cut it out and replace it with new metal.
On the other hand...
If the metal is solid, you can sand, use a rust converter, & paint.
If the rust has made holes in the metal, it's time to cut it out and replace it with new metal.
On the other hand...
If the metal is solid, you can sand, use a rust converter, & paint.
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,495
Likes: 2
From: Northwest Fl
cancer spreading
If you have rust holes, I would also advise cutting it out and patching. If you have caught it in time and no rust holes, I would clean the affected area as much as possible, treat it with etching or epoxey primer and repaint.
Unfortunately when you start cleaning the metal is when you will usually find the real damage.
Good luck.
Unfortunately when you start cleaning the metal is when you will usually find the real damage.
Good luck.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
cancer spreading
thanks,
Yeah, I don't see any holes.....please no holes!!!
It just looks like thin surface damage, if that makes any sense....
I have very limited bodywork experience....but if I see no holes, I'm jumpin' in, and attempting to knock that ugly rust out!
kv
Yeah, I don't see any holes.....please no holes!!!
It just looks like thin surface damage, if that makes any sense....
I have very limited bodywork experience....but if I see no holes, I'm jumpin' in, and attempting to knock that ugly rust out!
kv
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 999
Likes: 1
From: Willamette Valley Oregon
cancer spreading
<br>
Way to go !! That's the attitude.
I'm just guessing since I can't see the damage but this would be my plan of attack...
Sand with 100 grit. Since rust can creep under the paint, I would make sure I sanded past the edge of the visible rust, into good metal.
Then I would sand with 220 grit, feathering into the old paint. Each layer of paint would have a 1/4" feather.
Then I would treat with a rust converter. Personally, I like Metal Ready (by the Por-15 people), Picklex20, and Rust Mort.
I would finish up with epoxy primer. It seals out water, and seals in the micro-rust. If I didn't have the equipment to spray epoxy, I would put on a couple coats of Zero Rust to protect the metal. ZR isn't specifically designed to be used as a primer but it does provide excellent waterproofing until the correct materials can be applied.
Hope this helps you.
Way to go !! That's the attitude.I'm just guessing since I can't see the damage but this would be my plan of attack...
Sand with 100 grit. Since rust can creep under the paint, I would make sure I sanded past the edge of the visible rust, into good metal.
Then I would sand with 220 grit, feathering into the old paint. Each layer of paint would have a 1/4" feather.
Then I would treat with a rust converter. Personally, I like Metal Ready (by the Por-15 people), Picklex20, and Rust Mort.
I would finish up with epoxy primer. It seals out water, and seals in the micro-rust. If I didn't have the equipment to spray epoxy, I would put on a couple coats of Zero Rust to protect the metal. ZR isn't specifically designed to be used as a primer but it does provide excellent waterproofing until the correct materials can be applied.
Hope this helps you.
Last edited by Aekisu; Jul 15, 2003 at 02:51 PM.
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Junior User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
cancer spreading
Por-15 has a very fine fiberglass matting that can be laid in the wet paint and built up with more layers of paint.
I have ordered some of this stuff but not used it yet.
The same concept might work with some of the other rust stopping por-15 alternatives on small areas.
If I understand the process, you knock off the loose rust, clean the metal, apply the paint, lay in the matting, apply more paint, apply primer, fillers , etc.. The second coats and primers have to be applied after the paint kicks, but before it hardens.
Anybody tried the fiberglass matting?
Alan P
I have ordered some of this stuff but not used it yet.
The same concept might work with some of the other rust stopping por-15 alternatives on small areas.
If I understand the process, you knock off the loose rust, clean the metal, apply the paint, lay in the matting, apply more paint, apply primer, fillers , etc.. The second coats and primers have to be applied after the paint kicks, but before it hardens.
Anybody tried the fiberglass matting?
Alan P
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 999
Likes: 1
From: Willamette Valley Oregon
cancer spreading
<br>
I have but I have concerns about the process. For a comestic, quick fix, it works. If you can't get to the backside of the rust problem though, it's just a matter of time until it rusts out again.
I certainly wouldn't use it on something like holes in a roof.
I have but I have concerns about the process. For a comestic, quick fix, it works. If you can't get to the backside of the rust problem though, it's just a matter of time until it rusts out again.
I certainly wouldn't use it on something like holes in a roof.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 368
Likes: 0
From: del city,oklahoma
cancer spreading
ive used the matting to patch holes that would swallow a b-52 in my floor. the ONLY catch is you have to treat and coat the underside and top side for it to work right. if you can do that it will usually work well. mine was done 4 years ago in my 75 bronco and still no sign of rust coming back. as far as your roof goes tho it just depends if you can treat both sides or not. ill take some pics for you soon os you can decided if that is something you want to use.