Ok, here's a post about what I've learned the hard way in the two weeks I've had the '93 F-150. It probably pertains to all do-it-your-selfers (and not so much to people who don't work on them).

Most of these are brought up now since I've read recents posts pertaining to a lot of them.

Keep in mind we're talking about a 84,500 mile truck here.

1.) Radius arm bushings: From Energy Suspension, they came molded differently than the stock bushings. The rear-most bushings -- one for each side -- now have half of the insert on them, thus the radius arm must be nearly totally straight to get them on.

The whole process included me buying a come-along, using a co-workers second come-along, a garage lift, a floor jack, a screw-exhaust-supporter and lotsa tools.

It was in no way a quick or pleasant experience. But then I tried to get around unhooking the springs and calipers for awhile... Perhaps the whole process would have been a little easier WITHOUT the garage lift - the height worked against me sometimes... but then who knew that at the time?

This was not in the same league as changing out sway bar bushings. Total time? I'm embarrassed to say the nmber of hours.

I was curious about the condition of my bushings after reading posts from an owner, if not multiple owners, finding their bushings nearly disintegrated. Mine were pretty much OK. Some signs compression and worn away rubber, but it could have been ignored for awhile longer.

Sadly, i think all the playing around with the front suspension made the power steering box leak a little more from its bottom.

(strange test drive of 2.5 only miles - this can't be, but it seems like the slight out-of-alignment I'm going to have it aligned for is almost cured. Not all the way, but almost. And did I notice less pull to the left when braking? - of course I'll have to drive it more before any of these claims can be taken for fact, but I didn't expect either of those two things to be affected. Who knows?)

2.) 8.8 Rear End: So I've read a few other horror posts about some people's 8.8" rear ends going out on them with very low mileage (for a rear-end). I bought three quarts of Pennzoil Synthetic for it. As playing with those damned bushings took ALL of my time today, I couldn't go out and get a rear end seal to open it up and drain it. 'No problem' said I... I'll just suck the fluid out the filler hole with our hand suction-thingy-unit. Not. Just past the filler hole is too much blockage so the suction hose wouldn't fit in. Ok, I'll do it another day, but since I was there I checked for the required fluid to be 1/4 inch below the filler hole. Nope, nothing there.

I proceeded to fill 'er up. It took a whole Quart! I really didn't expect it to be that low. If it had any leak from the rear seal at all it was next to nothing. Hence I'm a bit convinced Ford didn't fill some 8.8" rear ends all the way. So if you haven't checked yours, please do so soon. Just because it isn't leaking doesn't mean it's full.
(Shimano did a likewise move with their bicycle hubs - high quality hubs but they apparently want to save on grease costs, thus owners have to tear apart brand new bikes and rebuild them to make them run and last like they should.)

3.) FYI Gas Tank: If you haven't been reading up on these trucks, the fuel tank and (according a post I read) the fuel filter have special fuel line fittings. Don't even bother to start unless you get the "X"-like tool that has two different sized ends for these fittings (the fittings are like some air conditioning hose fittings, so ask for that tool).

4.) Driver's side arm rest / door handle: Padding was totally compressed in the exact area my elbow wants to sit. Ford claims they don't sell the padded part anymore. I chose the hard route and tried to restuff it. I did it (using fake fur material instead of expensive foam)(by cracky foam padding is expensive!), and sealed it back up with "Goop" glue/sealant/whatever.

It probably would have been easier to go to a junkyard, but then if we ALL did that, there wouldn't be any armrests left, would there?

5.) Front brake bleed screw: My boss showed me this one. There was a post about a non-flowing bleed screw... what we did was to take the screw all the way out. Then took a drill and a thin bit to it from the end, and from two passages (i think) on the side of the bolt where the oil enters it to drain out the bottom center. It flowed fine after doing this.

I hope to post pics of some of the parts I've worked on in the next few weeks.

If this post helps anyone then I'm glad you're not in the pickle I was today.

later.

 

err... ok, it's 1:45 AM, and I'm tired. But I think they're supposed to be called "Radial Arm Bushings, not 'radius' as in the bone mated to the ulna in our lower arms.

doh!

 

Radius arm is correct.

When I changed my bushings, I drilled out the rivets in the bracket. I think it was easier than fighting with the come-along.

 

You're darn-tootin' that's the easier way to get it done.

Now did you tighten down the radius arm nuts before remounting the brackets, or after?

As for the bushings - i do know it helped re-align my truck's steering, and the truck is less fatiguing to drive down the highway.

 

I think I mounted the brackets on the radius arms and semi-tightened them. Then I mounted the brackets to the frame and wailed on the nuts.

 

Cool, thanks for that bit of info.

bushing update: Further driving (out to the alignment shop) affirmed the bushings helped put my truck back into alignment. With the alignment, the tightening of the steering-gear bolt on the steering box, and new quality rear shocks, the truck drives down the highway pretty well. I just had the truck on a 600 mile trip and it was a 300% improvement over the way it was before.

I'm just waiting for UPS to deliver the Pro Comp 9000 shocks I ordered for the front.

I don't have a sway bar, but during my trip it was pretty obvious that even on rougher highways and / or wind I didn't need one.

I guess I'll look into what other polyurethane products are offered for the truck. I think I'll look into the leaf spring bushings next.

rear differential update: I had my sister have her differential fluid checked out on her 1992 F-150, and it turned out to be low as well. I now recommend all 8.8-inch rear-end owners to check their fluid level.

 

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 12-Apr-02 AT 01:19 PM (EST)]Just wanted to update this post with pictures I finally got developed. Thought the pics might be useful to the 1987 - 1996 owners here.

Again, I was told by a Ford parts guy that they no longer sell the armrests, so when I found the stuffing in the driver's side armrest deteriorated after buying the truck, I attempted to fix the problem.

I did the fix back in December (which is why the pad is on top of a heater - to help the glue to dry well (very low heat)), and it is still holding strong now.

http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/d/s/dsh167/NewPics/armrestglue.jpg

Repairing armrests here. Bought an amount of fake wool fabric at the store, cut it up and restuffed a part of my armrest. Used "Goop" glue on a section of the upholstry lip and wrapped it with the red cord. Let dry over a night and did another section further up the arm rest, then repeated it again. (i think there were four glue sessions and wrappings total)

http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/d/s/dsh167/NewPics/bushing.jpg

Picture of one of the radius arm bushings, plus the air tube fix that I believe a Meineke muffler shop did before I owned the truck.

 

kinda odd on those armrests. I've torn through each side just by trying to slam the door with it. (To anyone who does this, I definetely recommend using the handle instead) I bought both of them through my local Ford dealer last summer at about $50-$60 bucks apiece. Not cheap, but I didn't want my truck looking like some beat up POS.

Mike

 

when i first purchased my 91 F-150 i noticed that my rear was leaking oil. when i removed the cover plate i found, to my astonishment that there was no gasket. just a think coat of sealer luckily i bought a replacement, but problems like this do raise concern of safety

What else are the guys at the factory missing?

 

Hey Gamma,

Which bolt on the steering box did youtighten? Thanks...

Matt

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 19-Apr-02 AT 10:51 PM (EST)]Green_Monster, the bolt I spoke of actually brings the two conical (I'm guessing) gears together inside the steering box. Too far apart (due to wear) and the steering is vague and loose. To tight together and the steering apparently binds.

Now it's been some time since I looked at it, and it's night here now (so i'm just not going outside to get under the truck on the rain-soaked ground with a flashlight right now... sorry, chum)... but it is the slotted bolt/screw that sticks out of the box, and it has a nut on the top of it that acts as a lock nut.

(if I'm remembeing this truck's steering box correctly -) Loosen the lock nut, gently turn the screw in with a screwdriver to bring the gear down to touch the other one, and now back off a little, then hold the screw and tighten the lock nut. It's been reported that even allowing the one gear to barely rest on the other one will cause binding, so that's why you need to back off a bit.

Hope that helps! Please do what ya can to search out better adjustment descriptions on this site, too.

(how about a little adjunct here - just got back from seeing Fred Rodgers (Mr. Rodger's neighborhood) speak at a gethering celebrating the 50th anniversary (this month) of the meetings that brought about educational public broadcasting to Pennsylvania and the United States. I guess it all started here at Penn State. Ok, so this has nothing to do with a steering box, but it was just such a great experience.)

Best,

 

Gamma, Thanks for the info that's what bolt I thought u were talking about. This will help i am sure as I am doing the radius arm bushings in the next couple of weeks and thanks to you and the rest of the guys I now can sve myself the headache and do it the easy(er) way.

Gotta go check my horse!!! THANKS AGAIN!!!



MAC:-staun

 

Just replaced the fluid in my 97 F150 rear differential. Needed expensive sythetic, plus additive for limited slip. Mine had no gasket either, just RTV, so that is the way I put it back together. By the way, the guy who actually assembled the rear diff. at the factory was kind enough to draw a smiley face on the diff. housing (upside down so when you're on your back you can see it right). I am wondering what the smile meant...no gasket, expensive fluid, I bought a Ford...?

 

all you guys with rtv how sure are you that diff has been sealed from the factory and not touched since? i would think that rtv would do just fine for the seal