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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

snapped 2 steering box bolts

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Old Oct 1, 2014 | 09:19 PM
  #1  
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snapped 2 steering box bolts

so this is my first post, with my first truck. I just bought this 1996 ford f 350 single cab long bed with 116,500 miles on it. it was a plow truck up north (im from nc) it has quite a bit of rust on it. so the other day i drove it around town and the steering seemed lose as normal. the next day i backed out of the garage to hook up to our camper to pull it into the front yard to pack it for our trip. when i was all hooked up i turned to wheel so i could start turning immediately. when i did that i heard a loud pop, i thought it was just the large tires rubbing the bumper. but when i had traveled about 5 feet i heard another pop and the steering went lose immediately. i shut the truck off to take a look. at first i thought i broke a tie rod, but it was fine, then i checked the steering box and noticed that it was hanging by one bolt out of three. later i found the bolt that had come out. it had sheered off from the steering box. whats the best way to get in there to get it out? do you think that there could be something else wrong or is it just the steering box? and whats a good not super expensive place to order steering boxes and what ever else is wrong from?
thanks for your help!!
 
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Old Oct 1, 2014 | 10:08 PM
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Since your problem seems a little other than run of the mill you will have to take it a step at a time.

If you want you could invest in a Haynes manual that has the procedures for removing all components you"ll be dealing with.

Associated components, like the steering shaft, or power steering hoses may have issues.

You can get power steering boxes rebuilt easily, from say NAPA or Autozone, but there isn't a lot of choices there.

There are more and better choices onRockauto.com, which is where you can even get a Motorcraft/Ford rebuilt box if the price isn't prohibitive to your budget.

Usually these events are indicators of some past work done. Power steering boxes don't usually unravel themselves from the frame.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2014 | 12:11 AM
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My thoughts

You know, beings that it was a plow truck in a previous life, this doesn't surprise me. Plow trucks are of a breed that is characterized by the credo "If it starts and moves, plow with it".

You might want to check the frame for damage, then replace that steering box with a reman'd unit. A steering box parting company with the frame is not a common occurrence.

Ray
 

Last edited by raystankewitz; Oct 2, 2014 at 12:12 AM. Reason: Grammatical errors
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Old Oct 2, 2014 | 02:57 PM
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Check the frame for cracks. MOST LIKELY the bolts were loose and that is what made them brake.

I suggest removing the last bolt, the pitman arm and steering shaft and removing the box.

This will give you the room to work and the ability to look things over.

if all is good, put 3 new bolts and an keep an eye on it
 
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Old Oct 3, 2014 | 05:08 PM
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Okay got the steering box out, looks like one bolt had been broken for a while, bolts were pretty rusted so I guess when I turned the wheel without moving the pressure busted the other bolts. Found a a1cardone box at Advance and a new high pressure power steering line at NAPA but cannot find the bolts to put back in. Bolts look to be 7/16 bolts about 5.5 inches long and have a small shoulder on them at the head end. Can I use a regular grade 8 bolt or do I need to find one with a small shoulder on it.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2014 | 12:34 AM
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You could go to a salvage yard.

The gear box bolts are smooth shank and tapped just at the ends.

Tractor Supply for example does have some cap screw bolts, and you do want to use hard/grade 8 bolts

Torque them to spec.

Consider a return line power steering filter and only the OEM approved fluid as indicated in your owners manual.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2014 | 05:35 AM
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X2 on be sure to check frame rail for cracks.

Best to get factory bolts from the dealer parts counter.
Remember, you're not just taking your own life in your hands when out on the roads.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2014 | 08:24 AM
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Looking at ford parts diagrams online it looks like the bolts have two part numbers 392009-S190(7/16) and W708226-S426 (M20). Not sure which to order, I guess I can take my knew steering gear box to Tractor Supply and try a 7/16 bolt and a M20 bolt. Looks like bolts are $6-$7 each via online ford parts suppliers.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2014 | 08:48 AM
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M20 is over 3/4"!!!

7/16-14 is the right size. (same as a bell housing bolt)
 
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Old Oct 5, 2014 | 11:47 PM
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I'd get Ford bolts if the old ones had a shoulder under the bolt head. That shoulder serves to center the bolt in the hole. Otherwise a good grade 8 will be fine.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2014 | 05:41 AM
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I think by "shoulder" he means they are flange head bolts.

 
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Old Oct 7, 2014 | 02:29 AM
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Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
I think by "shoulder" he means they are flange head bolts.

Probably correct on that… but I bet the actual bolt size is smaller that that photo!
 
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Old Oct 9, 2014 | 06:50 PM
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Picture of the broken bolt. Thread end is in the old steering gear box. Bolt broke where the inside frame and the steering gear box meets. Bolt does not have a cap, hard to see but bolt has an enlarged area about 1/12 long that is thicker than the rest of the bolt. Guy at Automotive Fasteners said that was to help with centering when torqueing the bolt. Auto Fasteners does not carry. Found part number 392009-S190 on a Ford Parts site and searching for that part found it on Amazon so ordered it and hopefully it will be the correct one. Found another part number 389442-S190 on another parts diagram but can't find that part number anywhere. Called local ford dealer about Part they were of no help and are the ones that told me to call Automotive Fasteners.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2014 | 07:02 PM
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I'd go to a salvage yard. I always thought those bolts were interference thread. You don't want them working themselves loose. I've read that the gearbox is the sAme on most of this era ford truck, including rangers. Maybe the bolts are the same too.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2014 | 10:12 PM
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Maybe the bolt's just rusted and worn-out to make them appear to have a shoulder.
 
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