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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

6.0L Motor Replacement?

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Old Sep 28, 2014 | 04:23 PM
  #1  
Shelby-GT-500's Avatar
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6.0L Motor Replacement?

Decided to get a 6.0, do the engine upgrades and have a good reliable truck for towing at a good price. You can buy these trucks cheep these days. So I have an 06 F350 w/142,000 on it. The motor had the Bullet proof EGR cooler and exturnal oil cooler and filter installed. I believe the head gaskets are bad. I had planned to do the Head gaskets and studs. The pricing ranges from about 3,500 at a local diesel shop that specializes in the 6.0 to 6,000-8,000 for places like Bullet proof diesel in Mesa. They have a great reputation, the price just seem very high. You can get a Ford long block or a rebuild with the stud and gasket from 4500 up. Would it not be better to just put a new engine in with the upgraded parts vs spending 6,000 plus even with a great shop doing the work? Thinking of going with the less expensive shop not seeing the added value of having Bullet proof do the work.

Has anyone been in the same situation that may have some advice?

Thanks
 
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Old Sep 28, 2014 | 05:50 PM
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What makes you think your head gaskets are bad?
 
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Old Sep 28, 2014 | 11:51 PM
  #3  
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Tom, Why not move this thread over to the 6.0L Forum.
6.0L Power Stroke Diesel - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

He can look at the Tech Folder at the top of the page
and get a lot of info on how to test. The lower half or
short-block on this engine is very durable.

There are some very easy things to test to help to pinpoint
if it is a head gasket or not.

One problem with this engine is that people tend to like to
1 spend money on things that don't fix the problem and 2
never take the steps to find the real problem and save that
money for other things when it turns out to be something simple.

So lets start at the first step.
What is it doing or not doing?



Sean
 
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Old Sep 29, 2014 | 02:01 AM
  #4  
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Thanks for the responses. Had a Ford Mechanic look at it. Paid him on the side for a diagnosis. He gave me a list:


Head Gaskets & Studs
Turbo sticks Low & High boost
EGR Sticks Heavy Carbon and Damp intake port
Oil leaks Cranks sensor, Rear Main, Rocker Carrier.


Not to mention upper & lower Ball joints and other parts including a leaky radiator that I put JB weld on for the time being. The top tank has a small crack. Looks like too much pressure in the cooling system. I have already bought a new radiator. Waiting for other repairs before I install it.


I have towed 1 time with it. My trailer is about 8,200 lbs loaded. The truck did not like towing it up the grades in AZ outside Black Canyon city heading toward Camp Verde. I could keep my speed but the truck got hot, and I had to reduce speed to keep it from overheating. Getting about 23 lbs of boost. Had to have my foot pinned to keep speed.


Thanks
 
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Old Sep 29, 2014 | 06:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Yahiko
Tom, Why not move this thread over to the 6.0L Forum.
Now why didn't I think of that? Moved to 6.0L forum!


Originally Posted by Shelby-GT-500
Thanks for the responses. Had a Ford Mechanic look at it. Paid him on the side for a diagnosis. He gave me a list:


Head Gaskets & Studs
Turbo sticks Low & High boost
EGR Sticks Heavy Carbon and Damp intake port
Oil leaks Cranks sensor, Rear Main, Rocker Carrier.
Is he a certified as a diesel tech? I'd be skeptical of the rear main seal leak. these things can leak oil on top of the engine which will drip down and look like a rear main seal. Rocker arm cover gaskets aren't an uncommon failure, and on most engines they're not terribly difficult to replace.

Did you ever have puking out the degas bottle?
 
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Old Sep 29, 2014 | 07:52 AM
  #6  
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Just remember that you get what you pay for. Lets run some numbers,,,
Approx numbers
Hg's. 330
Studs. 420
Oil cooler. 370
stc. 70
Dummy plugs. 35
Ex mani gaskets. 25
Ex bolts n spacers. 20
Rocker box gaskets 55
Blue spring. 60
Y pipe. 280
Egr upgrade. 350
Injector orings. 75
Glow plugs n wires. 200
Orange oring (OF stand pipe). 8
Ccv oring. 8
turbo install kit. 20
Coolant. 100
Oil change. 100
Fuel filters. 35
Hfcm drain plug. 25
IAT2 (new). 29
Ebp tube 25
Ebp adapter in mani. 15
Thermostat. 30
Up n low rad hoses. 100
Ex tranny filter. 30
Rear head fuel plugs. 15
6.4 push tubes. 85
6.4 banjos with crush 20
Dipstick oring. 5
Y pipe hardware. 15
Batt cable. 80
Fumoto oil n coolant. 85
Machine shop. 150 n up depending

I can't think of what else. But this list alone is over $3k.

Labor. We are 2500 just for labor. We start with the 2500 charge,, and whatever parts are needed,,, well that decides the total bill. I understand money is tight. But do you want a shop to have to hurry just so they can make money. No way would I do this job for 1000 labor. We have done a couple 3700 stud jobs,, but that was only hg's. there are too many updates and parts that should be replaced.

Every job is different,, hope all the injectors are good.
Remember,, for the $4900 engines you are seeing online,, you wil still need a stack of parts.
Ask creator about his decision to replace a long block for hg's.

It sounds like BPD is doing a very thorough job if that's their price. That's very close to our price as well. The jobs that have rolled out of our shop have been about $6k. It can reach the 8k mark if any injectors and an early model hpop is needed.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2014 | 09:15 AM
  #7  
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Why not do the work yourself? Its fairly easy...
 
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Old Sep 29, 2014 | 04:30 PM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by Tom
Now why didn't I think of that? Moved to 6.0L forum!




Is he a certified as a diesel tech? I'd be skeptical of the rear main seal leak. these things can leak oil on top of the engine which will drip down and look like a rear main seal. Rocker arm cover gaskets aren't an uncommon failure, and on most engines they're not terribly difficult to replace.


He is certified and has been at ford over 20 years.

Did you ever have puking out the degas bottle?

It did not puke out of the bottle on the last trip but it did puke through the small crack. Don't believe it had enough pressure due to the leaky rad. I have fixed that w/jb weld. don't know how long that will hold. did not want to put the new unit in till motor fixed. Will be going to the mountains again in a couple weeks but would like the truck to run better on the trip.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2014 | 04:35 PM
  #9  
Shelby-GT-500's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Super Duty Service
Just remember that you get what you pay for. Lets run some numbers,,,
Approx numbers
Hg's. 330
Studs. 420
Oil cooler. 370
stc. 70
Dummy plugs. 35
Ex mani gaskets. 25
Ex bolts n spacers. 20
Rocker box gaskets 55
Blue spring. 60
Y pipe. 280
Egr upgrade. 350
Injector orings. 75
Glow plugs n wires. 200
Orange oring (OF stand pipe). 8
Ccv oring. 8
turbo install kit. 20
Coolant. 100
Oil change. 100
Fuel filters. 35
Hfcm drain plug. 25
IAT2 (new). 29
Ebp tube 25
Ebp adapter in mani. 15
Thermostat. 30
Up n low rad hoses. 100
Ex tranny filter. 30
Rear head fuel plugs. 15
6.4 push tubes. 85
6.4 banjos with crush 20
Dipstick oring. 5
Y pipe hardware. 15
Batt cable. 80
Fumoto oil n coolant. 85
Machine shop. 150 n up depending

I can't think of what else. But this list alone is over $3k.

Labor. We are 2500 just for labor. We start with the 2500 charge,, and whatever parts are needed,,, well that decides the total bill. I understand money is tight. But do you want a shop to have to hurry just so they can make money. No way would I do this job for 1000 labor. We have done a couple 3700 stud jobs,, but that was only hg's. there are too many updates and parts that should be replaced.

Every job is different,, hope all the injectors are good.
Remember,, for the $4900 engines you are seeing online,, you wil still need a stack of parts.
Ask creator about his decision to replace a long block for hg's.

It sounds like BPD is doing a very thorough job if that's their price. That's very close to our price as well. The jobs that have rolled out of our shop have been about $6k. It can reach the 8k mark if any injectors and an early model hpop is needed.

On a crate motor would the parts list be much less as well as labor? Maybe I would be 6-7? with a new motor? I also already have the BP EGR Cooler and External oil cooler and filter.


Thanks
 
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Old Sep 29, 2014 | 09:32 PM
  #10  
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Crate comes 3 ways.
Short Block
Long Block
and Full Dress.
Full dress is everything. Pan to turbo.


Sean
 
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Old Sep 30, 2014 | 07:51 PM
  #11  
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I went to pick up a few parts at the dealer today and drove by their POWERSTROKE bays. They have about 20 bays that work on nothing but the POWERSTROKEs.

They had a complete turbo to pan crate engine going in a newish RV. Newish as in a few years old. That RV front was in pieces. I wonder what the story is behind that job.

If I had the cash and the truck was in awesome shape, I would spring for the turbo to the pan. If I was on the cheap the long block would be the way to go. Of course studs and an EGR delete would be in the mix also!
 
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Old Oct 2, 2014 | 01:29 AM
  #12  
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Anyone living in the phoenix area know what machine shop does work for Strictly Diesel or Bulletproof diesel?


Thanks
 
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Old Oct 2, 2014 | 02:14 AM
  #13  
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From: Spanaway
You would have to add a bit of shipping but you
could have Anthony do it for you.
Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Profile: Super Duty Service
Is him and you can bet the job will get done right.


Sean
 
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Old Oct 2, 2014 | 08:37 AM
  #14  
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If the time ever comes for me to replace the engine I am going with an OEM remanufactured long block, It comes with new HPOP, front and rear engine covers, new injectors, valve covers and oil pan for 9500 bucks.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2014 | 08:53 AM
  #15  
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Hey mustang 309 you might want to check out the post about the Ford short block review …and why would you want TTY Bolts
 
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