Hi, I'm new to the site in general, I have a 1967 f100 swb with a 352, yes I checked the bore and stroke and made sure that it was, the thing is I'm confused on what to do as far as getting it to a daily driver, it sat up for 15 years, we pulled it up on a trailer and brought it home, of course the first thing my dad does is try to crank it after replacing all fluids, and shore enough it crunk right up, it'll sit and idle for as long as gas don't run out, should I buy a rebuild kit and redo the whole motor or just replace the usuals?

 

No need to rebuild/refresh it so long as it runs and doesn't leak like a sieve.

Do a compression check. Definitely rebuild the carb and replace those old fuel hoses. Maybe replace the fuel pump. Full tune up and ignition and timing settings. Make sure it runs, stops, and turns safely. Lights and signals work... etc.

Here is something I saved:

"Preserve sanity. Grab a trash bag and a small box… trash and garbage goes in the bag and any spare parts goes into the box. The owners manual and, if present, fuses goes in the glove box.
Powerwash the body, wheel wells, and even the engine compartment.
Vacuum it out. Cleanliness is next to….

Basic Visual Inspection
Grab a note pad and do a bumper to bumper visual inspection.. this is also time to go on “Hack Patrol” – All those so-called “repairs” made by previous owners. Look for duct tape, household wire nuts, electrical tape, wood screws, wires that go to nowhere.
On the notepad make three columns/categories:
Gotta fix/replace now.. these include safety items like lights and brakes, cab mounts;
Gotta fix/upgrade/replace soon or “The Watch List” – floor pans.; and,
Fix later – rust holes, old wiper blades, loose ***** and switches.
Look for loose, missing, or broken hardware like lug nuts, fender and bumper bolts, and bellhousing to engine bolts. Feel around for soft or cracked hoses – radiator hoses degrade from the inside. Crimp it with your hand and it should have the same firmness all the way around.

Fluid Check.
You’re just doing this so ya don’t burn anything up and the fluids will be replaced later.
Engine oil, coolant, auto trans, power steering, and brake fluid. If possible, front and rear axle lube, T-case, and gear lube in a manual trans.
Air up the tires and the spare.

Hardware Check (Bumper to Bumper)
With a screwdriver, sockets, and wrenches double-check the tightness of everything that is easily accessible.
Torque the lug nuts.
Tighten hose clamps in the engine compartment.
Double-check spark plugs and seat the plug wires. I like to also verify the firing order.

Pre-Operation
Check for brake pressure.
Turn on the ignition system (no engine start). Turn on everything - blower motor, exterior and interior lights, turn signals, hazards, heater controls, wipers, etc.

Engine Start.
With a fire extinguisher at the ready, fire it up and let’er cook.
Set the idle speed and timing.
Verify that the thermostat works by leaving off the rad cap. You’ll see the coolant flowing which is an indication that the thermostat had indeed opened.
Take it for a test drive and note how it tracks, turns, accelerates, and stops.
Park it and let it idle for about five minutes to check if it overheats.
Shut it off for 10 minutes and then restart it. Hopefully it starts right up. If not, then it can be a vapor lock, a carb that needs to be rebuilt, or defective ignition components like an ICU or coil.

Full Tune Up (to establish a baseline)
Rebuild the carburetor!!!
Replace points, plugs, wires, cap, and rotor.
Change the engine oil and oil filter.
Change coolant, axle gear lube, transmission, & T-case lube.
Replace air and fuel filter
Bleed and change brake fluid.
Replace all the drive belts and at least the radiator hoses.
Take a grease gun and service all grease fittings.
Lube door latches, locks, tailgate latches, door hinges, etc.
"

 

Everything HIO just said X2.

 

Dang, I just got tired reading that.

 

Yeah, but I followed HIO's advice and mine is a daily driver now.

I had to re-build the brakes first, then on to other things.

Almost to the point of getting to performance and paint...

Been nine months and whole lot of fun!

 

Thank you very much, I didn't want to start dumping the wallet out without a second opinion.

 

So I don't need to worry about if rust is in it, or anything on the inside of the motor?

 

welcome to FTE 67shorty352 if she fired up and sounded healthy then that is a good start one of the first things i would do if i were you is pull the valve covers and make sure all your pushrods are there and straight, make sure all your oil return holes are clear, and check out your valve guide seals just look under your valve springs they are the rubber-ish umbrella basically and after the motor sits for a while these get hard and crack and break apart and can fill your motor with all sorts of terrible stuff causing oil blockages and can ruin your entire motor i learned this with my own 67 352 and while you have the valve covers off you might as well replace those gaskets you will thank yourself later for it

 

My 68 had been sitting for 25 years. Most of what HIO Silver recommends has been done and I now drive it almost daily. I've had it about two months now and, as I drive it, things that worked fine at first need attention. For instance, the something in the steering column has started to make noise when I make a sharp turn. Nothing major so far. Just keep an eye out for trouble.

It's kind of like the first months with your first child; they keep you on your toes.

Got pics?

 

Not at the moment, I'll have plenty this weekend, and thanks for all the help so far y'all