Coolant Change
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 105
Likes: 3
From: Gilbert, AZ
Coolant Change
truck is at 103K miles and getting ready for my coolant change. Is it something that the home mechanic can do or should i take it in. I had done the cleaning procedure on my 6.0L years ago but i know the casting sand is not an issue on these motors like it was on the 6.0.
If I can easily do it at home is there a service procedure that someone has available. I tried searching the thread but couldnt find anything.
AZChris
If I can easily do it at home is there a service procedure that someone has available. I tried searching the thread but couldnt find anything.
AZChris
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,664
Likes: 188
There is 2 pea***** as there is 2 systems. One is easy to get at the other is a big PIA. Search for posts. I have read a few. One guy made a tool to get at the hard to turn one.
One thing I miss at this 6.7 is the tips and how to's we use to have at the 7.3 forums. I wonder if we'll ever have that as these newer ones are harder to work on.
Like the transmission. You have to have a hot flush to change all of the fluid. With the 7.3 we could run it out in a bucket.
One thing I miss at this 6.7 is the tips and how to's we use to have at the 7.3 forums. I wonder if we'll ever have that as these newer ones are harder to work on.
Like the transmission. You have to have a hot flush to change all of the fluid. With the 7.3 we could run it out in a bucket.
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 341
Likes: 2
From: Bloomsburg,PA
not sure witch forum but someone said to just drain and refill and not to FLUSH the system because of the disturbing the sand that was stuck in the casting of the block .
please correct me if I'm wrong
please correct me if I'm wrong
Super Moderator
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 37,384
Likes: 1,868
From: Frederick, MD
I know one thing you will want to have. An airlift tool so that you purge all the air out of the system.
If it is cheap enough I would opt to have the dealer do this job.
Get a quote and see.
If it is cheap enough I would opt to have the dealer do this job.
Get a quote and see.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 5,247
Likes: 4,267
From: Kaysville Utah
Air in the coolant system is the villain in these engines. You want to make sure that all metal in the coolant chambers stays immersed in coolant. The additives in the coolant prevent any rust as long as the metal is in contact with the coolant and any metal not immersed in coolant will quickly rust if exposed to air.
So it is important to use the airlift tool to make sure all air is removed from the coolant system when you change the coolant. And it's important to keep you coolant system top'd off so no air enters the system.
I had the dealer do mine at 100,000 miles and I think it cost me between $200 and $300 for the job.
So it is important to use the airlift tool to make sure all air is removed from the coolant system when you change the coolant. And it's important to keep you coolant system top'd off so no air enters the system.
I had the dealer do mine at 100,000 miles and I think it cost me between $200 and $300 for the job.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 501
Likes: 1
From: Pacific NW
I saw a few videos where they show the vacuum based coolant filling tools. Seems like those tools alone run roughly 100 to 150 bucks. If the dealership price is right, I'd opt to let the dealer fill the vehicle. I believe all the manufacturers no longer have a real radiator cap, but a pressurized cap at the coolant reservoir(s), so these vacuum filling systems are a necessity to do your own work. You will also need a decent sized air compressor (minimum 15 gallons) to operate one of these things.
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