Changing a turbo Wheel?

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Sep 18, 2014 | 08:02 PM

#16

Shake-N-Bake

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Joined: Sep 2003

Posts: 6,096

Likes: 26

From: Mesa AZ

Quote:

Originally Posted by AllaboutMPG

So I see lots of info out there in the cyber world about pulling the intake housing off and using an impact to pull the old wheel off. Then I read the websites of the folks selling the wheels and they say "DO NOT USE AN IMPACT TO CHANGE THE WHEEL" it can cause stress cracks and turbo failure.

I'm looking for experience from the brotherhood. Anyone out there have a turbo failure shortly after using an impact. What do you guys recommend.

Have already done the EBPV delete pedestal and bellowed uppies. don't have anything I need to do that requires pulling the turbo but will do it if there is a chance of damaging it.

Thanks,

I've changed the wheel without removing the turbo on two trucks. Impact gun on the lowest setting and a short blip did the trick. Both trucks are still running fine.

Sep 19, 2014 | 12:35 AM

#17

Dave7.3

Elder User

Joined: Apr 2006

Posts: 894

Likes: 0

From: South Dakota

Quote:

Originally Posted by F350-6

I haven't seen that video before, but please take anything you see on powerstoke help with a huge grain of salt. While that did work in his video, you have to keep in mind that there's no oil flow to the turbo when you do that. The shaft spins just fine on the film of oil that remains in there, but repeatedly bumping it with an impact, especially if you hold the impact at a slight angle could lead to issues.

Noted. I hadn't heard of the guy before but it was one of the methods that other boards had linked to as an example. Made more sense than wrestling the turbo out just to change the wheel.

Not buying the 'lack of lubrication' argument. You experience the same lack of lubrication on a cold start. Only the turbo is spinning considerably faster at idle during that few seconds it takes for the oil pressure to come up. Especially with non-synthetic oils in colder climates which millions of trucks manage.

In my opinion, retailers advising against the practice is just good business sense. The less liability you retain with your product, the safer you will be. With how easy it is to mess up these kind of installs, you want to remove as many variables as possible. In their shoes, I would do the same thing.

Sep 19, 2014 | 07:30 AM

#18

mueckster

Lead Driver

Joined: Jun 2003

Posts: 8,298

Likes: 25

From: Damon (South East Texas)

Quote:

Originally Posted by ScaldedDog

This is a really good thread.

Have any of you seen thread issues with the Riffraff wheels? I'm planning to install their ported housing wheel. As safe as I think the impact method is, I wouldn't use it if there was a chance of a threading issue. That sounds like an easy way to spend a lot of money...

Mark

I noticed no problems when I installed one in my 38R. I installed it while the turbo was on the bench since I was doing a replacement swap of a defective unit. I had the exhaust side housing off and held the turbine wheel wrapped with a rag. I was able to hand thread the new billet compressor wheel all the way down before torqueing it.

Sep 19, 2014 | 06:58 PM

#19

F350-6

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Joined: Mar 2007

Posts: 26,966

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From: Texas

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dave7.3

Not buying the 'lack of lubrication' argument. You experience the same lack of lubrication on a cold start. Only the turbo is spinning considerably faster at idle during that few seconds it takes for the oil pressure to come up.

How long do you think it takes for oil pressure to come up after the engine starts? Remember the injectors are fired off of engine oil.

Besides, exhaust gasses tend to be a bit smoother at spool up than an impact wrench. I was talking about the impact breaking the surface tension of the oil with no other oil coming behind it to replenish, but everyone is free to do what they choose.

Some have used an impact with no issues, others have rebuilt or bought a new turbo after using an impact. Your turbo, your choice.