I am a +1 on Cary T

Exceptional service !

I did his set up for 35"s after being completely unsatisfied after a 5" rough country lift

 

Yet another +1 for CT. I just did mine and have pics in the thread I started "Thanks to all...". I got V's up front with dual shocks, Modded B's and shocks in back, adjustable track bar, and u bolts for $2.5k ish. I'm running 275/70r18 on mine.

 

I have just received my x/b code springs. If i go with the 3 1/2" tapered blocks instead of the b mod, do i need to remove the 2" blocks that are currently on the x now and replace with the tapered blocks? Plan on doing this in the next couple weeks just trying to get everything straight. Thanks

 

Yep, you want to replace the EX blocks with the tapered taller ones, stacking blocks is frowned on as a possible safety issue. The B code mod was developed to give the same amount of lift as swapping to the taller blocks without the cost of new blocks. I did both on mine, tapered blocks and the B code mods (plus a little extra ) because I had a certain desired result in mind, I wanted to run 35"s and ride level with my trailer's 1400+lb tongue weight in the mix. Worked out perfectly for me!

 

I've got a set of the tapered blocks for free so i was hoping i could save myself some labor. Thanks I'm looking for a level to slightly higher rear

 

So if a guy just put in v codes he could use these blocks to get the back up without doing b mod right away?

 

You can use the tapered 3.5" blocks instead of doing the mod to the B-code rears. You'll need a shackle hangar kit up front in addition to the V-codes otherwise you're going to have one hell of a rake - V's by themselves provide about 1.75" lift, whereas the mod-B's or B's and the 250 block will be up around 4.5".

Stock blocks are 2" I believe, so you'll have a tiny bit of a nose-high if you do just V fronts and replace the stock block and keep the stock rear springs.

The mod to the B codes takes all of 10 minutes when installing them, it's not that difficult. Considering you should replace the u-bolts when you do just a block, I would just wait and do it all at once. You're just two more bolts away from taking the springs out when replacing the block.

Unless I misunderstood your question...

 

With your X/B codes the tapered block may not be enough to maintain the factory rake. X codes will raise a V-10 about 2.9" (2.7" for a PSD) and B codes are actually about the same ride height as the stock EX rear springs, so with only the extra 2" or so on the tapered blocks you may lose some rear ride height as compared to the new front height. It may ride more level as opposed to the factory slightly rear high rake. The factory rear springs wrap up pretty bad under hard acceleration, the B codes are a bit better, with the added leverage of the taller blocks they too can wrap up. Modded B codes are more resistive to wrapping as the extra height is gained with leaves that have a longer contact area than just the lift block. Something to think about based on how you will be using your EX.

Yes, the taller tapered blocks give almost the same amount of lift as doing the B code mods. See my answer to Brian above for other considerations regarding this choice.

Just trying to keep the flow of info as accurate as possible here Matt, just seems like you may have been adding twice on the rear gains, unless I misunderstood what you were explaining.
On my EX the factory rake was 1" rear high. With my modded X codes up front it gained 3 3/8" using the B code top overload leaf added to the X code pack, the X code alone would have been 2.9". My rear suspension got modded B codes (2 bottom leaves and the thicker spacers from the old EX pack) AND the F-350 taller tapered blocks AND two sections of the cut up old slapper style traction bar from the factory springs. All of these mods added up to a 4 3/8" gain in ride height. B codes and the factory EX rears are about the same height, the Bs are just stronger.
This thread also has some more info to look at when comparing and contemplating suspension mods. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...easurents.html

 

I think you're right, I got a little crossed up on the measurements. Thanks for the corrections, good looking out bud. Especially since I'm looking to swap blocks on my V/mod-B as I have about a 1" nose high stance. Barely noticeable, but now that I've seen it all I see is pre-runner stance every time I look at the damn thing hah. So it's either blocks or RAS, still up in the air. Blocks are cheaper, but the RAS will give about the height I'm sagging if I read everything right, and they'll help across the board when towing the Chevelle or even just daily driving.

 

Good catch, Tom, and great info. Reps sent!

 

Towing a Chebby? Sounds about right...

 

Looky here guy, driving to a track 40 miles away in 98* weather and 90% humidity in a black car with no AC, running premium fuel (10.5:1), a 3000 stall, 3.73's, a 1:1 final drive, and drag shocks and springs up front is NOT a pleasant experience.

Now if were a truck - yes.

Otherwise, your statement is invalid




*all comments made in good humor which is unable to be expressed because I don't know the smiley text and this app doesn't have any access to them

 

But it's all worth it when you do that first launch, eh?!

 

Gotta echo the "Vs and modded Bs are actually a pretty nice combo and go well together."

I put on V's/Modded B's (stock rear blocks) and I'm loving the clearance and ride. I have a front sway bar (no rear) and for me at least I don't feel too 'tipsy' on turns (and I've been known to take some turns pretty quick when not towing).

I run about 200-300lbs in the third row seat area all the time and I have a nice level stance with the V/Modded B setup. When I do tow I pull between 7500-10000 and it does still give me about a 1.5-2" sag. To counteract that I put in AirLift springs in place of the rubber jounce stops on the rear springs. I run about 15psi not towing and don't notice the rear weight when driving. When towing I pull under the hitch, raise the psi to 65 and watch the hitch ball come up 2" into the trailer...when I raise the trailer foot the weight dips the hitch back down 2" and I end up with a perfectly level ride.

To be proactive and prevent a war in the thread later:
I know some like the shackle fix for adding height to the front - it keeps that soft ride so if that's what you are into, that's probably the cheapest fix I think for the fronts.

You stated though you felt it was already a bit too soft, so the V's or a serious add-a-leaf would stiffen up that front a little and give you a bit more capacity.

There, no-one bashed the shackle fix.

Oh, and depending on how close your front bump stops are to the frame, expect maybe 1.5-1.75 of lift on the front like WE3ZS stated. As you tow, I think for the rear you'd want the Modded B/stock block or some kind of add-a-leaf solution to keep a level stance and give you a little more to counteract the trailers you'll tow. Some like the RAS option - I haven't tried them so I can't speak to how they feel. I personally chose the air bags since adjusting the RAS involves loosening/tightening a bolt that pre-tensions a coil spring. When I tow it could be in an emergency so I didn't want to have to take the time to adjust those - air bags made more sense for me since I could just dial in the pressure and hit a switch and have it adjust while I hook up the chains and umbilical.

There are maybe a half dozen combinations you can come up with - some more widely used than others (V/Modded B is pretty damn popular, I would venture that RAS might be slightly more popular than air bags but not by much).

 

Sorry guys that should have said without b mods