I have Ford SUV Explorer 2005 (4.0L V6 engine).
My Vehicle often goes into "Engine Failsafe mode" usually when AC is switch-On or quickly accelerating on a slop or slight mountainous area.
I have changed
i) Throttle body part
ii) All plugs etc.
iii) Checked Engine volves
But No use!

Please tell me what I can get rid of this nasty engine FailSafe mode???

Someone suggest me it might be oil pump, but I don't want to spend on it before I confirmed about the solution.

Message center: "low oil pressure", "tyre press sensor fault" went after some time while "Service Engine Soon" remains permanently in message center.

 

The "Service Engine Soon" light being on is an indication that there are diagnostic codes stored and currently active. Most chain auto parts stores, at least in the US, will check diagnostic codes at no charge. The trick may be getting the actual code number from the salesperson rather than just their interpretation of the code.

If you can get that code and it's not intuitively obvious what the likely issue is, post back here with the code number and no doubt you'll get some good suggestions on path forward.

For the items you list as having been changed, were they changed to attempt to fix this issue or were they changed prior to this issue? Have you checked the oil level on the dipstick to try to address the low oil pressure? Has the oil been changed recently?

-Rod

 

Dear Sir Shorod,
Thank you very much for your response. I regularly check oil with dipstick. It is always normal. Few months ago, I have checked/ scanned for computer codes and details are as under:
----Codes with Description-0320----
ENGINE KOEO ODDTCs
P0161-PCM, P1000-PCM [Description-0320 -->The PCM detected two successive erratic PIP signals, this could result in an engine misfire or stall]
ENGINE KOEO CMDTCs
[Description-0320 --> Open Circuit:
P0161-FF-PCM [This DTC may be caused by:]
P0320-FF-PCM --> Sensor
P0406-FF-PCM --> Short Circuit
P0606-FF-PCM --> CPS/wiring
P1000-FF-PCM -->Improper connection
P2100-FF-PCM -->Crankshaft position sensor fault

---- Codes with Description-P-2106 ----
ENGINE KOEO ODDTCs
[Description-P2106 --> Throttle Actuator control system-Forced limited power
Possible causes are:
Engine KOEO CMDTCs -> Harness wiring
P0320-FF-PCM --> Accelerator pedal position sensor
P1000-FF-PCM --> Throttle body assembly
P2106-FF-PCM --> Throttle position sensor

After this scanning, the service man (I guess he is incompetent) did following expensive services on my vehicle:
i) Replaced a new Throttle body
ii) Replaced all new plugs
iii) As one cylinder 6 was not making full compression, so he also service to open head valve.
But none of them succeeded to get rid from nasty Engine failsafe mode, with which it is almost impossible to drive…. Any help pleeeeeease??? So many codes and suggestions it will cost me lot if I follow each suggestion..

 

Have you had the codes re-scanned since the work was performed? If so, you should to determine what is still active.

I'm having difficulty reading the list above. There's a line such as, "Description P2106" followed by several codes that appear to be listed as possible causes. So, in this example, is the P2106 the only active code? That would mean, before the throttle body, plugs, and valve job was performed, your truck was reporting only 2 codes, P0320 and P2106?

You really do need to find a different shop! It appears some of the parts that were replaced were completely a shotgun approach and lacked any sort of proper diagnosis. The throttle body due to the P2106 is somewhat reasonable, but I think it would have made more sense to check the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor and Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) first as they are easy to check and could cause the lack of power and possibly the failsafe mode.

If the throttle body were replaced and you find the P2106 is still an active code, something is not right there.

-Rod

 

Dear Rod,
Bundle of thanks for suggestion. Certainly, I will recheck the codes though it costs here to check the codes.
Kindly see on the following link having the original photo of scanning paper. I hope you can suggest me some thing better than local mechanics here whose strategy is based on trial and error.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/m6krsvktn...Rpp58jPKa?dl=0
Secondly, one another local mechanic said that it might be fuel pump malfunction which does not provide proper fuel while accenting and/or AC ON situation. I wonder how it can be possible while there is nothing about fuel pump in scanning codes…?

Really the situation is driving me made where I am just wasting money without getting any positive output…..Thanks again for Help!
Dr.Mi

 

I'm not really sure what to make of those screen captures. The scroll bar would suggest that's only a partial list of the codes. Whether those are current codes or if that's maybe just a list of possible current codes I don't know based on those images.

Since places charge to read diagnostic codes where you're at, it might be in your best interest to purchase a scan tool of your own. There are some pretty inexpensive options available and at least then you're not at the mercy of a shop to get you the codes. Heck, you can probably pick up a scan tool for less than one code reading at the shop.

Testing for proper fuel pressure is pretty easy to do. There is a Shrader valve on the fuel rail and you can pick up or borrow a fuel pressure tester that will thread on to the valve and let you monitor the fuel pressure at start up, at idle, and at higher RPMs as well. Where you need to be careful though is the fuel supply system on your 2005 might be a returnless system where a fuel pump driver module controls the fuel pressure via pulse width modulation (PWM) and therefore the readings may be different from what a technician is expecting if they are not checking the service manual.

-Rod

 

Any time you get a P210 something your going into limp mode that has to do with the APP.
P2106 should be circuit C high.
there is nothing wrong with your throttle body, you probably have a bad APP sensor, the one one the gas pedal, you can take a look at it, but you really need a scan tool to test circuit A, circuit B, and Circuit C
The APP is the accelerator pedal position, It uses 3 different circuits for safety, there are 2 trouble codes for each circuit, A high or low, B high or low, C high or low. If you set a p2100-p2112 that all leads to the APP, they go bad alot, your feet are wet the sensor gets wet, got mud on your feet sensor is muddy etc. I would replace the APP. Spring for the code reader or scanner and you can watch what the app is doing

 

There is a temperature sensor on the head under the intake manifold that does not read out or set a specific code except Engine Fail Safe which cuts the firing in half (you bout dead). In my experience the main cause is an air bubble in the engine water jacket which is a real bitch to get out. Your water level will show normal if you let it set over knight it will drop about 2" you may find yourself adding a little water from time to time. One of the main causes is a small crack in the intake manifold or the little plastic unit the top radiator hose goes too.

 

Dear Friends, Thanks for your valuable suggestions to find the real problem in my vehicle BUT unfortunately still I am struggling with it. I have some new findings through the help of local workers here.

1.The real problem is in automatic gear changing (in D mode). When vehicle ascends in "D" gear mode, it cause the problem (sometimes engine fail mode and sometimes some friction sound with jerk on leaving accelerator).
Normally, all gear change smoothly in "D" mode BUT when the AC is on or ascending it cases the above "1" problem.
I wonder what really is responsible for this problem? (This problem does not happen if I change gears (1.2.3) manually during ascending)

One local mechanic suggested that as the over-drive-off switch is not working properly on gear leaver, it might be the problem bc there is some sort of current that does not go inside the gear box..

Thanks in advance for suggestions!
regards,
Mr.Mi

 

A few questions:
1. Does your engine run hot at any point?
2. Have you checked the Transmission oil level & oil condition?
3. Has the Transmission oil been changed in the last 40,000 miles?
4. Are you sure you are actually reaching Overdrive?
5. Is the overdrive Off Lamp Illuminated.
The Overdrive off switch goes to the PCM Module which controls most of what you have been talking about. I am not saying change the PCM but that you should be getting some good codes in relation to your problem.

 

Dear Weross67,
First of all thanks for ur time and kind reply.
kindly see the replies as under:

A few questions:

1. Does your engine run hot at any point?
ANS1. Although heat gauge never reach beyond middle point BUT while on my return from office, if AC is ON, after a specific time of travelling it start problem 1 (start producing friction sound or engine fail safe mood)

2. Have you checked the Transmission oil level & oil condition?
ANS2. In Ford explorer 2005 model, the only way t check Transmission oil is through computer bc there is no gauge for checking it SO I HAVE NOT CHECKED IT YET.

3. Has the Transmission oil been changed in the last 40,000 miles?
ANS3. Since, I bought the vehicle, I have not changed (about more than 20,000 miles) and not sure about previous owner...

4. Are you sure you are actually reaching Overdrive?
ANS4.when I shift the gear, sometimes the overdrive lam illuminates perhaps due to the malfunction of OD switch. Then I usually move the gear lever up and down, lump goes off.

5. Is the overdrive Off Lamp Illuminated.
ANS5. Actually the OD button is not working properly so time to time during shifting gear it illuminates
The Overdrive off switch goes to the PCM Module which controls most of what you have been talking about. I am not saying change the PCM but that you should be getting some good codes in relation to your problem.

For codes, these have been very nasty with me because many local mechanics saw them and put the new parts BUT NONE OF them solved the problem.
I have changed i) Throttle body assembly ii)Throttle body sensor iii) EGRs sensor
iv) wiring harness checking v) engine plugs etc...
here is description of previous scanning as well as in new scanning P2106 and one more came after this the mechanic changed EGRs sensor which did not worked... No new code now.


---old Codes with Description-0320----
ENGINE KOEO ODDTCs
P0161-PCM, P1000-PCM [Description-0320 -->The PCM detected two successive erratic PIP signals, this could result in an engine misfire or stall]
ENGINE KOEO CMDTCs
[Description-0320 --> Open Circuit:
P0161-FF-PCM [This DTC may be caused by:]
P0320-FF-PCM --> Sensor
P0406-FF-PCM --> Short Circuit
P0606-FF-PCM --> CPS/wiring
P1000-FF-PCM -->Improper connection
P2100-FF-PCM -->Crankshaft position sensor fault

---- Codes with Description-P-2106 ----
ENGINE KOEO ODDTCs
[Description-P2106 --> Throttle Actuator control system-Forced limited power
Possible causes are:
Engine KOEO CMDTCs -> Harness wiring
P0320-FF-PCM --> Accelerator pedal position sensor
P1000-FF-PCM --> Throttle body assembly
P2106-FF-PCM --> Throttle position sensor

 

Looking at your reply you first need to check the transmission fluid level (bet it is Low). Next look and smell of it, if it is not a very redish color and it smells burned Chang It. Be sure it is replaced with with (Mercon V). You can have this done at an oil change store. Let us know the results!

 

I am having same problems friday I drove my truck for 20 miles stopped at a gas station with the car still running went in got a soda came out put the car in reverse and the engine fail safe mode came on and went to limp mode now it has come on before and I shut it off and wait 10 min and it runs like a champ. But this time tried doing that and it just stayed on and into limp mode. called a tow truck and than 20 min later started right up no prob at all. Was at the garage til today my mechanic said there was no codes and it ran great. What do I do about this problem?? Help???

 

Have you checked for diagnostic codes? What year is your Explorer and which engine does it have? Were there any lights illuminated on the instrument cluster when this happened?

-Rod

 

This is caused by an air or steam bubble in the top of the engine which means you had low water at some point. When the engine is cool the top radiator hose need to be removed for about 15 minuets then fill the openings with water. Good Luck!