Greetings ~ I'm a newby to this forum!

The "Clock" on My newly-acquired '99 F-250 SuperDuty 4x4 Supercab says 265k., but It's got a Rebuilt Engine & Transmission...something the kid I bought it from last week apparently did NOT know... : ?

When I first heard It on "Startup" - because its sounding diminished relatively quickly, and didn't return when "Revved" or engaged In/out of Gear - I figured it more likely Piston-Slop and/or a loose wrist-pin... : ?

Since I've changed the Engine Oil (Penzoil 10w-40 & Purolator "Classic") It's become a lot more pronounced ~ though it will diminish with engine warm-up, and too, is otherwise operationally sound and really quiet...leading me to now wonder if It's been "Dry-Started" after an Oil Change...and it does seem to emanate from the rear of the Engine in/about somewhere a-middle of the Oil Pan : ?

I've changed-out a V-10 before for Rod-Knocking as-such - for being "Dry-Started" after an Oil-Change - and though this sorta sounds "There" (as a "Rod-Knock") it's eventual "Tacet" (musical term to "Stop Playing" ; ) has Me wondering otherwise... : ?

I've also seen the TSB regarding Transmission Clutches "Knocking" when cold, but nothing changes with in/out gear-engagement.

The insight of those in-the-know regarding these-such 6.8 liter V-10 "Characteristics" is invited ~ thanks!

 

as-stated, there's little if any noise emanating from the Timing Set

 

Hey, WELCOME to FTE!

All the usual things come to mind, rod bearing, main bearing, etc, but ... being it's a "rebuilt" engine, I wonder if the crankshaft end-play is too much?

Push/pull on the crank pully front-to-back and see how much the pully (and crankshaft) slides in and out. Doing that, of course, requires some leverage in directions that might not be easy to do.

Might be easier to pull the bellhousing inspection plate and do it that way.

 

Hmmmmmmnnnnnnnn....as-stated, there's little if any noise emanating from the Timing Set - this "Knocking" occurs down-low at the REAR of the Engine - and I'm pressed to believe using 5w-30 and a just-as-restrictive (if not more) OEM Filter is gonna make that-much difference...then-too ~ A client of Mine's '06 Dodge Hemi floats Valves for (apparently) Lifter Pump-Up if anything other than 5w-20 is used in It : ?

BTW ~ Here's an interesting discussion of "OE vs After-market Oil Filters":

How good are Motorcraft oil filters? | Oil Filters | Bob Is The Oil Guy


Back to the problem at-hand:

I'm inclined to believe It's either Piston-to-Bore, Wrist Pin-to-Piston, or Journal-to-Saddle clearance otherwise taken-up as things "Grow" with Warm-Up...I guess that could include Crankshaft End-Play @ "Thrust" too : ?

The Truck was bought for an eventual 5.9 Cummins 6-BT Swap, but that's not happening anytime soon for lack of proper funding ~ meanwhile I've got an 8k. lb. Car-Carrier & Boat to tow occasionally ~ so this Engine needs to "Work" reliably until that can happen... : ?

Once Road-Ready and driving I'll have a better idea of just how bad this "Knock" really is ~ otherwise I'm currently fixing all the OTHER crap caused of either neglect, ignorance, or mis-repair ~ not the least-of-which is removal of the cheap 'n shoddy "Lift-Kit" for restoration to original Ride Height, and replacement of the Over-Load Leaf-Springs that were apparently discarded for presence of the Frame-Pads : ?

 

so the next time you change the oil....maybe throw in some 5W30 to see if the sound changes.


having owned ford vehicles that share the exact same engine (2000 5.4, 2001 5.4 and 2005 5.4) and calling for different weight oils...makes me wonder if the dif in oil weights being speced are truly engine performace centric or just a way of increasing overall CAFE MPG ratings....at the expense of our engines of course. whats the correct oil for the 5.4 and 6.8 5W30 or 5W20. and as far as filters...some have reverse flow valves and some do not...def go with the reverse flow valves. and then theres the syn vers dyno vs blend.....seems like these engines are quieter on dyno than they are on syn and green crude being the quietest.


so could it be gaps or spaces, sure...who really knows if the rebuild was done at a high craftsmanship level. one thing to replace case bearings...another to install and drill out the eyes for the oil jets if needed, etc, etc.

 

"...so could it be gaps or spaces, sure...who really knows if the rebuild was done at a high craftsmanship level..."

There's a big aluminum "REMANUFACTURED S.N. #XXXXXXX" I.D. tag on the left-bank @ Cylinder #8 on the Block...could It be a Factory-Ford Rebuilt Long-Block that's been installed ?

I've been in, out 'n under this thing TWICE now with a pressure-washer and STILL don't have all the mud cleaned out of It ~ currently R&R'n the Spark Plugs to determine how long they've been in there...and there's freakin' MUD all-over the Coils AND inside of several of the PLUG-BOOTS between the Spark Plugs and their "Bores" too!

The MAF was also contaminated with MUD, and so was the Throttle-Valve ~ NOW I'm starting to wonder if the Kid SUBMARINED this thing bad enough to have possibly bent a Rod or two... : ?

It's had a drive-ability problem (missing/surging/bucking) that at-first I figured was due to the restricted exhaust system, but having now-seen how much crap was all-over the MAF wires 'n such I'm almost sure that - and possible shorting of the Plugs within the Boots for all the Mud in THERE TOO - will be resolved upon reassembly tomorrow morning ~ that is unless My MAF didn't appreciate me cleaning it with Brake-Kleen and Compressed Air... : ?

In any case, I'm looking forward to resolving the drive-ability issue(s) and actually FEELING what it is some of You 6.8 "TRITON V-10" affectionado's love so-much ~ although I'm sure it's not "Fuel Economy"...

I haven't put 88 miles on the Truck since I got it and It's already used a third of a tank of Fuel!

 

Waiting to hear what it sounds like after all the clean up - you never know ...

 

(lol) Seems the more MUD I get off/out/away from the Truck/Engine/Underbody EVERYWHERE ~ the louder It gets : ?

Since cleaning-out MUD from within ALL The Spark Plug Boots...AND contaminated M.A.F....AND installing a free-flowing Exhaust System...AND removing the junk "Lift-Kit" It had installed...AND re-doing all-four Brake Calipers...AND flushing the Trans, T.C., Diffs, Fuel System, and Engine...AND washed it TWICE with a pressure-washer so-hard It'd blown the clear-coat off just to remove the BLACK MOLD between It and the actual PAINT...AND spent over two-hours cleaning the Glass, Door Seals, and Run-Channels ~ only to find ALL OF IT SCRATCHED-UP for all the MUD ~ I STILL haven't gutted the interior for the DEEP-CLEANING of the Dash, Door Panels, HVAC, Carpet & Seat-Cover replacement it really ~ REally ~ REALLY ~ NEEDS : ?

It's actually now running well, and though the Fuel Economy has improved somewhat ~ I really don't like It's "V-10 (lack-of-low-end) Power" or how the 4R100 "Shifts" ~ much-less how It sounds!

That-said ~ I'm no-longer torn between going-ahead with pulling the V-10 to find/fix whatever's knockin' and "Running With" vs. SELLING the Engine...for what THIS "Conversion" costs to expedite I'd rather go-ahead 'n fix It, re-install It, and then more-than-likely SELL-TRADE THE TRUCK ~ for what I should've got to begin-with : ?

Plain 'n simple: I got impatient and simply bought the wrong-truck ~ rather should'a WAITED 'till I found a CLEAN non-running CLEAN (yep, said it TWICE ; ) '99 ~ '07 Superduty Supercab 4x4 with a blown engine, 3.73's, and the ZF-6 I'd rather have for doing a '96 6-BT 5.9 Cummins Conversion : ?

 

No low end power... With a manual trans... Are you driving like an old lady or something. I mean, I drove a 5.4 with a manual and it had plenty of *****. A v10 gotta be awesome. I have an F450 v10 with a 5spd, and it's a house puller. Granted you have 373 to my 456 or 488, but my auto v10s are pretty healthy also.

I'd say finish cleaning it up, sell it for what's closer to what you want in the future.

As far as putting a cummins in a ford, lots of ways to do it. You can either get the conversion kit with engine mounts and bellhousing adaptor, or just use the dodge trans. There's no wrong way to do it. Then buy the electronics to get the ford tach to work with Chrysler tach output. Misc things like getting new hose ends for ps pump and ac pump. Or figure out how to get the ford items to work on the cummins.

 

From what I've read so-far the '99-2000 Superduty 7.3 w/ZF-6 is the easiest/cheapest to convert ~ especially for already having the Inter-cooler...otherwise an '03 ~ '07 6.0 w/ZF-6...apparently otherwise ~ the 5R100 IS the A/T to go-with : ?

 

Oh, my 2000 f350 psd is a powerhouse. I have the f6 chip with 60tow, 80e, and 100 race tune. It's fun.
There is a negligible cost difference between starting with a psd or modular. Only real difference is the bellhousing and the one way sprage in the trans. Otherwise, an ic is easy to put in.
I would look for a psd because I believe the clutch is bigger. But you can get an awesome clutch for the modular trans also. I think your expectation is a little skewed because of what you had previously. That's like owning a corvette and then buying a cobalt and expecting similar performance.

Like I said, clean it up and sell it. Locate what you really want in better shape.

 

So I nursed a quart or so of WATER into the PCV hoze @ 2200 rpm over 10 minutes or-so ~ just for grins ~ and the "KNOCKING" seemed to have subsided...then-too it has always pretty-much subsided after having attained op-temp ~ but it also did seem to run smoother too...I'll cold-start it later this morning and we'll just see wassup wif that : ?

I once diagnosed a Hi-Mileage C-30 Flatbed with a 454 BBC as having spun a Rod Bearing ~ as it REALLY sounded like "someone was knockin' at-the-door wanting OUT!" ~ which - after removing the Pan, shakin' the Rods, and even pulling some Caps to "Plasti-gage" - turned-out to simply be excessive Carbon build-up on-top of the Pistons/within the Cylinder Head itself...easily resolved with a quart of H20 applied as-discribed above!

 

I would rev the school busses up to 2500rpm and use the garden hose to mist a half gallon of water into the 366s. They would carbon up bad. It helped them run. But they ran and idled fine, just detonate and lack upper end power. They never made any odd noises.

Is there any chance your truck has a dual mass flywheel. It's a typical thing for the diesel guys to upgrade to a single mass when their flywheel starts rattling.

 

This Truck has a 4R100 Automatic in it that shifts like I'm driving a Water-Bed ~ It's almost like It's been "Programmed" to ONLY Up-Shift when I "Lift-Foot" in some manner of simulating a Manual Transmission...at-least that's IS what It sounds like when I'm trying to drive the way I'd rather it DID shift : ?

My (sold-in-a-jam) '99 1/2 DRW Superduty Supercab 4x4 7.3 PSD w/3.73's and stock-sized 16's had a Dual-Mass Flywheel with the ZF-6 and ran - literally! - more like a Kenworth than a Pickup!

The last quarter of '13 and the first of '14 were just too-slow for Me, so I had to sell It ~ and NOW I'd kick myself in the **** if My knee would bend far-enough for doing-so!

 

Automatic... Your first post was talking about a tsb for clutches so I figured that's what you had.

Yeah, you're far from having the ideal truck if your goal is 6bt and manual trans.

Sounds dumb, but is it an exhaust leak that seals up after it gets warm. V10s are known for cracking manifolds and shearing off exh studs.