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Nice lookin' truck Ultra. Looks like the same color as my 1st car. 1965 Triumph TR4. British Racing Green.
Thanks. Green (Norway Green) wasn't my first choice of preferred colors. I would rather have found a blue or white bodied truck but, there were a lot of odd colors on vehicles in the '60s and '70s. So, it could have been worse.
However, I chose a truck that had a solid body over finding a truck in the color I would have preferred. The color can always be changed later.
The truck in the following photos was my dad's '68 Ranger (exterior and interior trim was upgraded to a '70 model Ranger). My dad bought it from my uncle when I was 6 (1972). My dad sold it when I was 22 (1988). It's the first vehicle I learned to drive. I found out several years ago, from a friend, that the son of the guy that bought the truck wrecked and totaled it. I have tried to locate the guy that bought it (in hopes of finding out what happened to it and possibly get it back) but, I've been unable to locate the previous owner.
Two days after I bought my truck, the right rear wheel cylinder blew. I also discovered the MC was leaking brake fluid down the inside of the firewall.
I pulled the wheels off and began stripping the brake components off to start the rebuild process. It wasn't necessary to pull the rear end housing out from under the truck but, I figured while I was replacing brake components, axle bearings, axle seals, etc., might as well ****** the rear end out, pressure wash it inside and out, bead blast, prime and repaint it. Had to make a new 3/16" hard brake line too. The original line was pretty surface pitted (weak spots that could cause the line to blow out).
The rear end housing after I got it all cleaned, put back together and re-installed under my '69 F-100 Ranger.
Two men with a sledge hammer and a rock bar would have damaged a ford rear end.
Put the axles back in. Put the truck in neutral and spun the drive shaft. Wheels did not turn.
Will start pulling the rear end.
Two men with a sledge hammer and a rock bar would have damaged a ford rear end.
Put the axles back in. Put the truck in neutral and spun the drive shaft. Wheels did not turn.
Will start pulling the rear end.
....it's always something but, it's not the end of the world.
Only the 3rd member (center section) would have to come out (once the axles are removed). The rear housing itself doesn't have to be removed from the truck.
If the pinion shaft is bent, it's probably putting the pinion gears inside the differential in a bind thus, keeping the wheels from turning. The pinion shaft may also have bell-mouthed the holes in the differential casting, where the ends of the pinion shaft are located.
Depending on what the damage is, you may have to put another differential in the existing 3rd member case or, it may be easier to just find a complete donor 3rd member to swap in place of the current 3rd member.
Most '73-'79 9" truck 3rd members will have 31-splines. '72 and earlier 9" rears (not 9-3/8" rears) will have 28-splines. You'll need to match ratios (if you have to get a complete donor) to keep your speedometer accurate. Otherwise, you'll have to change out drive and/or driven gears for the speedometer, depending on what your trucks rear end ratio is.
The third member did not budge when I loosened off the 10 bolts holding it. I used an old, big screw driver and a hammer and started trying to work around the edges but not much luck. Apparently I got it to leak some at the base. Pulled the fill plug and turned it a bunch of times to get the rear end fluid out. Sure there is still a bunch in there.
So my thoughts are to pull the rear end. Will give me a chance to clean it up and a I guess I will learn how to do the pre-load trick on the pinion gear (probably incorrect phrase there).
Where is a safe place to put jack stands? Can I use the leaf springs in front of the U-Bolts?
Basically:
1. Disconnect shocks;
2. Disconnect 4 U-bolts;
3. Disconnect rear brake hose, from rear brake "distributor";
4. Disconnect rear brake lines from distributor/block;
5. pull rear brake drum assemblies clear of rear end.
Could I put the axles back in, attach the wheels/tires and roll the rear end out from under the truck?
Get a couple of old screw drivers and start them at the same time on both sides or even a third one . It is a tight fit and needs to come straight out . Prying on one side can put it in a bind and work against you. I'v had a few i felt like taking a cutting torch to but just kept on working a little at a time and got them.
I place the jack stands ' heavy duty ones ' in front of the front spring hanger under the frame. I'v put them under the leaf spring but never felt secure that way. ____JIM
Extra added , I would put the axles back in and roll it out .
If the factory copper crush washers are still on the studs that holds the 3rd member to the housing, you'll have to remove them before the 3rd member will pop out.
If the factory copper crush washers are still on the studs that holds the 3rd member to the housing, you'll have to remove them before the 3rd member will pop out.
That's right i forgot those , that may be where the problem is .
Will look for the crush washers as well.
Wondered if something like this would be useful: 500 lb. Capacity Hydraulic Table Cart
Since this is a one-man show, I am thinking that might reduce some of the "baaaaack" breaking work - anything to reduce my celebrex intake.
Heck, just realized. I have a motorcycle jack/lift sitting right next to the rear end. Slide it under there to hold up the rear end when I start getting it loose.
Will look for the crush washers as well.
Wondered if something like this would be useful: 500 lb. Capacity Hydraulic Table Cart
Since this is a one-man show, I am thinking that might reduce some of the "baaaaack" breaking work - anything to reduce my celebrex intake.
Heck, just realized. I have a motorcycle jack/lift sitting right next to the rear end. Slide it under there to hold up the rear end when I start getting it loose.
2X good idea. That bad boy is heavy. Keep all limbs away from it when it comes out.
Dropped the rear end from the truck last night. Not exactly gracefully, but it's out. Note to myself - plug each end with towels prior to lifting by the end to avoid major oil spills.
Will be replacing brake lines. At least I have the original's to copy and won't have to form my own design.
Crush washers were still there and holding the third member. I have the third member where it will come out, but going to have to figure out a way to pull it out - wish I had a portable hoist.
As I told my wife last night - hmmm, now what (:
My motorcycle lift is somewhat useful for this task.
I am sure no one on this forum has seen a rear end out of a pickup (: Lot's of clean-up to come.
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Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
__JIM
