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I'm thinking about insulating my intake tubes and the box soon. The thing I wonder about, I can get an average of 14-15mpg in my Bronco. Not sure why, but that's normal driving. I can get 9-10 if I run it alot, but that's not often. I don't poke around either, just keep up with traffic. The only mods I have done are block the EGR off, MSD wires, and the K&N replacement filter. I also run synthetic in both the engine and tranny, but I believe that's irrelevant in a vehicle this size.
any place that carries them should be able to pick the right gear for your tires. Unfortunately, I don't know enough about this to really help out. I do know that there are specialty speedo shops out there. I'm sure you can call around to some of those and figure out what to buy.
First, I took off the OEM airbox setup and wrapped it with insulation tape. It took about 90' of the stuff, and I secured it with aluminum foil tape. This wasn't 100% necessary for most of the wrap, since it's pliable and semi-adhesive. I mostly just used the foil tape to secure joints in the wrap and to help cover the main box. With the thickness of the thermal tape, you can't just 'wrap' the box itself. you have to lay down strips, then cover the strips with foil tape. Anyway, it looks fine installed. It's shiny, even if it's not very sleek :-).
While I had the Airbox setup removed, I performed the Throttle Body coolant bypass mod that's been discussed here. I completely removed the rubber/metal/rubber hose that runs across the top of the radiator and to the Throttle Body. Then removed the small rubber hose that goes from the Throttle Body to the intake. I then used a 3' section of 3/8" hose to bridge the gap between the radiator and the intake, bypassing the throttle body. To clean things up a bit, I used a 1' section of 3/8" hose to connect the inlet and outlet coolant lines on the TB. After that, I re-installed the wrapped airbox system with a K&N filter.
I don't have a great basis for comparison, because it was 85 degrees outside when i drove home from work yesterday, and it was 54 degrees this morning (currently 55). The cold front we had last night cooled everything off and helped my truck breathe better, so I'm not sure how much effect these mods had. I can tell you that there was definitely a noticeable difference, but how much was mod, and how much was cold front... i dunno.
My total cost for this project was as follows:
K&N filter: $45 - AutoZone
90' of insulation tape plus foild tape: ~$22 - Home Depot
4' of 3/8" hose: ~$4 - AutoZone
So for $70 or so and about 2 hours of work (mostly wrapping and taping) I am now burning much colder air, and more of it. This in combo with my 33" tires should give me decent mileage. Once the outside air heats back up to normal, I'll recalculate my MPG and post it in this thread. Anybody with questions, please feel free to email or post. I'll answer if I can. :-)
I did this to my 94 with 5.0...it has 67,000 miles on it. I installed FIPK which some think is a joke and did an exhaust upgrade. I used 2.5" exhaust and a 40 series flowmaster. these minor upgrades increased my MPG avg. to 18 on street and about 20-24 highway. I was getting about 15 mpg avg. before. It is a low milage truck as well. #1 issue is to separate the fipk with a shield. The elimination of the air box allows more hot air to go into your intake than before, so to solve the problem, create a shield out of aluminum to keep the heat away or move the air temp sensor to the side of the inner fender to give a lower temp reading to the computer. Just my take of things.
Last edited by Artistictouch; May 16, 2004 at 02:47 PM.
Regarding the FIPK- what was your thinking about not getting the cold air intake? I suppose you still get enough air running over the filter and then the heat shield must help. I'm retuning the FIPK uninstalled.. gonna rap, rap, rap....
Regarding the FIPK- what was your thinking about not getting the cold air intake? I suppose you still get enough air running over the filter and then the heat shield must help. I'm retuning the FIPK uninstalled.. gonna rap, rap, rap....
[Qor move the air temp sensor to the side of the inner fender to give a lower temp reading to the computer. Just my take of things.[/QUOTE]
I'm all for lying to the computer ( and the gov't when needed)
So where do I find the temp sensor? Is any wire splicing involved in moving it?
And lastly what did it cost in your area to change over to the 2.5" exhaust and how extensive was the change, ie; front to back , partial, etc.?
The air temp sensor is the little probe twisted in your air box. If you shield it you don't have to move it. I bought 10' lengths of 2.5" aluminized 14 ga. and bent it on my exhaust tubing bender. I should not have to worry about that for quite some time Cost me about $15 for tubing and about 15-25 minutes of time. Expect to pay about 60-75 bucks otherwise......steel prices went up or a full exhaust tune-up from bassani, headers on back. price varies on this one, figure $750 give or take. Could even be close to $1K for exhaust now. Steel prices went up an avg. of 33% across the board. Thank China for that one Muffler on back is not bad and can give a noticable increase in power with stock cats...just not a 15 horse jump, say maybe 3-5 horses.
Last edited by Artistictouch; May 17, 2004 at 06:57 PM.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
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