Front End Woes
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 373
Likes: 0
From: Arlington, Texas
Check the brake rotors. On my truck the inside of the driver side rotor was eaten up and had deep grooves. Otherwise you will have to just take the wheels off and see which one has play. Normally if one goes the other isn't far behind so if you do find a bad one replace both and save yourself the aggravation a couple months later.
What makes this so frustrating is that I just completely rebuilt the entire front end about 6500 miles ago!!
The problem I'm having now, is the reason i rebuilt my front end.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 3,953
Likes: 120
From: Mcdonough, GA
You could pull the ABS sensor out and see if you see any thing that would help you decide which side to start with.
Is it still wandering left and right or just bouncing and growling. Maybe you could tighten the gearbox to clear up left and right issue.
Is it still wandering left and right or just bouncing and growling. Maybe you could tighten the gearbox to clear up left and right issue.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 373
Likes: 0
From: Arlington, Texas
The left/right wandering is probably due to the slop in my steering box. (Almost saved enough for a Redhhead Box) Still bouncing and growling also. What should I inspect by pulling the ABS sensor?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 3,953
Likes: 120
From: Mcdonough, GA
If you have a growling noise and intermit abs light you may find some metal shavings or other indication if one is bad. Not a guarantee but it's one bolt to pull the sensor and look down into the hub. You may not find anything but it's easy enough.
Have you jacked it, taken wheel off(to get weight off hub) and tried to move from the u-joint side of the hub looking for excessive play?
Have you jacked it, taken wheel off(to get weight off hub) and tried to move from the u-joint side of the hub looking for excessive play?
Tuned
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 364
Likes: 65
You are sure your hubs are unlocked? Front U joints/axles should not be turning unless in 4 wd. Had the front end growl growl 8-9 years ago and the dealership wanted to put new hubs on. Thanks to the boys at the Dieselstop, I got my hubs unlocked and am still on the original hubs to this day.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 373
Likes: 0
From: Arlington, Texas
You are sure your hubs are unlocked? Front U joints/axles should not be turning unless in 4 wd. Had the front end growl growl 8-9 years ago and the dealership wanted to put new hubs on. Thanks to the boys at the Dieselstop, I got my hubs unlocked and am still on the original hubs to this day.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 373
Likes: 0
From: Arlington, Texas
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
FWIW:
The sound you are describing when turning the wheel sounds very similar to what mine used to do. It was resolved with a new wheel bearing hub assembly being installed.
Shimmy from my experience is caused by bad tie rod ends or a bad idler arm or pitman arm.
If you've replaced all of the above, then I am stumped.
The sound you are describing when turning the wheel sounds very similar to what mine used to do. It was resolved with a new wheel bearing hub assembly being installed.
Shimmy from my experience is caused by bad tie rod ends or a bad idler arm or pitman arm.
If you've replaced all of the above, then I am stumped.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 373
Likes: 0
From: Arlington, Texas
FWIW:
The sound you are describing when turning the wheel sounds very similar to what mine used to do. It was resolved with a new wheel bearing hub assembly being installed.
Shimmy from my experience is caused by bad tie rod ends or a bad idler arm or pitman arm.
If you've replaced all of the above, then I am stumped.
The sound you are describing when turning the wheel sounds very similar to what mine used to do. It was resolved with a new wheel bearing hub assembly being installed.
Shimmy from my experience is caused by bad tie rod ends or a bad idler arm or pitman arm.
If you've replaced all of the above, then I am stumped.
I got under it this afternoon and looked for metal shavings and moved the ujoints to make sure the hubs weren't locked, and they were smooth as butter. Didn't find anything else out of the ordinary. The new ujoints from the stub axle to the axle are spicer, and they have grease zerks on them. Would that be a problem? Guess ill jack it up tomorrow and look a little deeper.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 373
Likes: 0
From: Arlington, Texas
Just checking back in here. I had the chance to jack it up and grab the wheel at 3 o'clock and give it a shake. The whole center link moves just enough to make a clunk. Had a buddy come over and move the wheel like i did, while I got under it and tried to pinpoint where the play is, and I believe it's in the pitman arm. Also, I can move the passenger side ujoint at the stub, and it moves enough to clunk in the hub. I'm going to assume that this is the side I'm getting the random ABS light and howling/grinding sound from on slight left curves. Also, I looked at my fan, and it's got some pretty sizeable chunks missing on about 4 blades. Could that cause a motor vibration or front end bounce feeling? Still need to know what is grinding on the drivers side when I make a sharp enough right turn. It is now pulling to the right.
I'm really starting to think that I didn't install the knuckle seal and dust seal properly during the rebuild, and my axles are wobbling in the housing.
I'm really starting to think that I didn't install the knuckle seal and dust seal properly during the rebuild, and my axles are wobbling in the housing.
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
Just checking back in here. I had the chance to jack it up and grab the wheel at 3 o'clock and give it a shake. The whole center link moves just enough to make a clunk. Had a buddy come over and move the wheel like i did, while I got under it and tried to pinpoint where the play is, and I believe it's in the pitman arm. Also, I can move the passenger side ujoint at the stub, and it moves enough to clunk in the hub. I'm going to assume that this is the side I'm getting the random ABS light and howling/grinding sound from on slight left curves. Also, I looked at my fan, and it's got some pretty sizeable chunks missing on about 4 blades. Could that cause a motor vibration or front end bounce feeling? Still need to know what is grinding on the drivers side when I make a sharp enough right turn. It is now pulling to the right.
I'm really starting to think that I didn't install the knuckle seal and dust seal properly during the rebuild, and my axles are wobbling in the housing.
I'm really starting to think that I didn't install the knuckle seal and dust seal properly during the rebuild, and my axles are wobbling in the housing.
You'd better pull the other hub bearing assembly off and check it too and replace the pitman arm.
Keep us posted.
If you fan blade has chunks out of it the my guess is that the fan clutch is toast thus causing your fan to wobble.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 373
Likes: 0
From: Arlington, Texas
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
I am revisiting this again, and have the right front wheel off. I can move the area near the stub axle ujoint that goes into the small dust seal in the front end. (Does that make sense?) It looks like the whole seal moves a little bit in the housing when I push on the ujoints.. When I installed this during the rebuild, I already had it on the axle when I slid it into the housing. Was I supposed to seat it in the housing first, THEN slide the axle through? Of course, with the larger knuckle seal already installed on the axle.