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Good point, Mooselighter. What I have found that really works for the installation is to mark your holes in the bed and then do an 1/8" pilot hole in the center of your holes and then actually drill from under the bed up. It sounds tricky, but it is a sure-fire way not to hit framework, or any gas/brake lines. I put a rollbar in my last truck, a '98 GMC Sierra doing this and with the pilot holes, I had that sucker in in 30 minutes. Keep on truckin.
Which is simply a big plastic chest with a lock and an option to add 2 more U locks. I found it at Home Depot for only $44 and wanted to pick one up. The guy working there told me they are sending them all back because they didn't get the keys for them.
This box will require drilling the bed or finding another mounting solution. I like this box because it's deep and big and will hold more than what I need it for. It also has only one lid which is an advantage for me.
#2 is a craftsman tool box which I found at sears for $129. It had gull wings lids and is not as deep as #1. I couldn't find it on the sears web site.
I just purchased a Delta Pro Series black powder coated box for my F250, and would highly recommend it for the price - really heavy duty construction. Got it at my local Farm & Fleet store for around $325. I'd guess a Ranger box would be less expensive.
My other recommendation would be Northern Hydraulics. From what I have heard, their boxes are made by Better Bilt and are a bit less expensive.
I personally would stay away from the cheap-o bargain units.
Piece of advice for everyone. I had the black plastic box in my 94 Ranger for about 1 year and I had so much trouble keeping it mounted, because no matter how I anchored it, the anchor would eventually pull through the plastic and the D@&m box would try to fly out of the bed. I now have a diamond plate box and the entire lid opens, just like my plastic one had, and it was about $200 at 4wheelparts. Definitely recommend the metal box...but it is a 2-man install to keep from hitting the feeder for the gas tank.
I think the across-the-rail boxes installed with j-bolts are preferable because of the simplicity and the clearance under the box. No drilling is required in the bed. Most boxes come with holes for this type of install, and if not you are only drilling the box, not your truck bed. Most accessory shops will try to use only two j-bolts, but I would suggest doing it yourself and using four - one at each corner. You might need to check them for tightness every so often, but this can be minimized with a lock washer between the regular washer (as large as will fit) and the nut.
Also, I would never advocate buying a flimsy blow-molded poly box. If you don't like the look or cost of aluminum, get an injection-molded structural foam box.
After researching for more than a week. Checking every website and store around where I live I almost gave up. I really wanted a balck plastic box because they are cheap (I found one for $80) and match the bed liner I have in the truck.
I almost went to Sears to get the $129 box they had there (With gull wings and a tad too small) but I decided to check my local PepBoys one more time. As I walked in I saw they had a diamond plate DeeZee box (Toughman) on sale for $99. I asked one of the guys to help me and see how it fits my truck.
An hour later it was installed. It's a one lid, silver colored, diamone plate box with a lock. I'll try it for the first time tonight.
The poly/plastic one in my Ranger bed mustve been there way before I got the truck..and its held down with washers thru the bed...So it must work. I do have a cap on too. Just fyi
I have a Contico rail level box. It is Poly/plastic and I have it bolted to the floor with stainless hardware and silicon. I like it because it is deeper than a cross over (rail type) plus it does not protrude above the rails. I have it on an 01 Ranger SC and I have had it since 1997, 2nd truck. It looks as good now as when new. It is well sealed and very dry.
...big plastic chest with a lock and an option to add 2 more U locks. I found it at Home Depot for only $44 and wanted to pick one up.
I've seen that one at Home Labyrinth as well. Thought about getting it, but decided not to. Appeared much to easy to break into. The 2 hinges on the back are on the outside and seem to be held in by pins that can easily be punched out. The lock in the center is a joke, and the 2 lips on either end that accomodate padlocks are too close to the edge, making them easy to cut or rip into.
I'm looking myself for an inexpensive but secure strong plastic or alum. one for under the rail, since I'd like to use my cap from time to time. Only ones I ever seem to see are above the rail, though.
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