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Proper brake bleeding and question

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Old Sep 5, 2014 | 07:51 AM
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Proper brake bleeding and question

I have a 1988 F250 7.3. It has a 10.25 Sterling rear axle 4.10. I did a rear axle brake job and bled the rear brakes. Do you need to have truck running to properly bleed the brakes, and is it recommended to also bleed the fronts? Here is the second part question...I replaced the inner hub seals also. While doing so, when I pulled the axle shafts I found they had o-rings for seals. Does anyone have a part number and source for these o- rings? Tks....
 
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Old Sep 5, 2014 | 12:31 PM
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No need to start the engine or bleed the front
 
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Old Sep 5, 2014 | 12:51 PM
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O-rings are reusable, Iv'e never had on leak yet, you can get them from ford. Generally when I do a brake job I dont bleed anything, unless I replace a caliper or hose, never do it with the engine running, and I always gravity bleed, open the master cylinder make sure it's topped off, and open the bleeder your working on, you will see the fluid come out along with bubbles if there is any in there, after 5 minutes close the bleeder, top off fluid go for a ride.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2014 | 01:41 PM
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Gravity bleeding will work but pump bleeding is faster. bashby is correct, you do not have to start the engine. In fact, it's better if you do not, because the action of the brake booster can make your pedal feel less firm than you might expect. Be sure your drum brakes are adjusted properly before bleeding.

You may or may not have to bleed the fronts, just depends on where the air is. Redoing the back brakes does not in and of itself mean you have to bleed the fronts, but there are places where air from the rear can make it's way to the front. Bleed from the wheel furthest away from the MC and work your way forward. Bleed however much you have to in order to get a firm pedal.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2014 | 01:51 PM
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The reason I don't pump bleed If you got a rock head in the truck pushing like he's having a baby you flip the seals in the abs pump, Then the customer comes back with a ABS light on and no one knows why. Or you run out of fluid in the master and tear those seals up, a simple 10 minute bleed turns into a day of horror. I let mother nature take her course and never had a problem in 30 years.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2014 | 06:00 PM
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i gravity bleed because it is very hard finding someone to pump the brake pedal.

i have been gravity bleeding brakes for over 30 years now and never had any problems.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2014 | 06:33 PM
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Thank you for replies. Understand gravity bleeding means open the bleeder nut and just let it drain for 5 minutes? Making sure master cylinder stays full and do this for each wheel. And its ok to re-use old o-rings, that is good news. Ford told me I can only get them in a rebuild kit which costs $120! All I wanted was the 2 o-rings. Appreciate the advice guys....
 
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Old Sep 5, 2014 | 06:50 PM
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yup, gravity bleeding really is that easy.
i normally let it drip until there is no air, and then let it go until i get clean fluid out.
the only thing i do different is put a small hose on the bleeder nipple into a clear glass jar. it makes things a lot less messy under the truck.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2014 | 07:08 PM
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Thanks TJC, will be bleeding them in the morning. Have a good weekend!
 
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Old Sep 7, 2014 | 12:01 PM
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This morning went out and tried to manually adjust drum brakes but ran into a problem. I have posi-traction and when I go to adjust shoes to allow for one rotation of drum the tires won't free spin when in nuetral. I'm confused on how to adjust drum brakes because I can't get the tires to rotate freely?? Any help would be greatly appreciated. ....
 

Last edited by red97stroker; Sep 7, 2014 at 12:03 PM. Reason: improper word usage
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Old Sep 7, 2014 | 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by red97stroker
This morning went out and tried to manually adjust drum brakes but ran into a problem. I have posi-traction and when I go to adjust shoes to allow for one rotation of drum the tires won't free spin when in nuetral. I'm confused on how to adjust drum brakes because I can't get the tires to rotate freely?? Any help would be greatly appreciated. ....
Can you block the front tires and put the back end of the rig on jackstands?? I dont have any rigs with posi so I haven't had to worry about that issue..
 
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Old Sep 7, 2014 | 01:01 PM
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See edited next comment....
 
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Old Sep 7, 2014 | 01:19 PM
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I have the truck on jack stands with front wheels chocked. Transmission is in neutral, but wheels are still hard to turn..truck has automatic and has 4 wheel drive..I'm sorry I mis-spoke I have a limited slip 10.25 Sterling. ...
 
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Old Sep 7, 2014 | 02:36 PM
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Sounds to me like one or both are already adjusted a little tight. Good chance the park brake cable or thw pb lever pivot at the anchor pin is sticking
 
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Old Sep 7, 2014 | 02:36 PM
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trans in neutral, wheels off the ground. tighten the brakes until you can hear the shoes hit the drum when turning the wheel.
i don't worry about the one full turn thing. if i hear the shoes touching the drums, they are tight enough.
 
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