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So I've got a really weird problem: the power door locks on my 2002 Sport Trac will try and lock as soon as the key is turned for ignition. This happens while turning the key and before the truck is every shifted into drive. This started happening randomly a couple days ago and I have no idea what could be going wrong. It's really dragging power away from the starter and is very annoying.
Since the truck is still in park when it happens, I don't know if it has anything to do with the autolock feature. Anyway, I turned that off by following the manual, but it didn't fix the problem.
Any ideas? I there a sensor or bad connection somewhere?
Do you know if your Sport Trac has an aftermarket alarm system or remote start system hidden away somewhere that could be trying to lock the locks as soon as the key is turned to "Acc"? Any little holes in the dash that might have been home to an LED before?
No, this truck has never been altered. It's all OEM: no alarms, no aftermarket remote/starter, or LEDs. My dad bought it new and I got it a couple of years ago.
The TRS/transmission range sensor is supposed to kill power to all accessories when in park or neutral. Does the same happen when you start it in neutral?
Should have said when the key is turned to start the TRS kills power to all accessories when in park or neutral
I just started it with the cabin lights on. The lights dimmed dimmed during ignition but never went completely off. Doors still triggered the locks, also.
The TRS isn't what tells certain accessories to not power, that's controlled by the ignition switch. The TRS just allows the circuit to the starter motor assembly to be completed when the key is turned to the Start position. The accessories that power down when in the Start position have a separate power line that is Hot when in Run or Acc. Other accessories that can be powered in Start are fed by a circuit that is hot in Start and Run.
If the starter motor is engaging when in Park and Neutral, but not when in gear, the TRS is not the issue.
I have the factory service manual for your truck. If you want a PDF copy of the starting system and power locks wiring diagrams, send me a Private Message with the request. Include your e-mail address, the vehicle information, and which diagrams you're looking for.
How old is the battery in your truck? You mention the doors locking is really dragging power away from the starter, but it might be the other way around. The battery might be weak and the load from the starter is causing the system voltage to drop which then causes the Central Security Module to reset and cycle the locks.
If you have a multimeter that samples at a pretty high rate, monitor the battery voltage while the starter is engaged. If the battery voltage is dropping below 10.5V, consider replacing the battery. If the battery is more than 3 years old it's probably getting weak. Batteries don't seem to last in modern cars with a lot of electronics like they did years ago.
If you want to yank the lock relay until this is fixed see your owners manual
Unfortunately, according to the factory diagram, there are no lock and unlock relays. Power is routed directly through the door lock switches.
For the Sport Trac with remote keyless entry (keypad on driver's door) the lock and unlock features are routed through the Central Security Module.
Please confirm your Sport Trac has the remote keyless entry. If not, my comment about the battery possibly being the issue doesn't hold, but at the same time, there would be no connection between the starting system and the locks.
Yeah, I've got no idea how old the battery is in this truck. I've had it since November 2012 and have never replaced it and it's not noted in my service notebook from my dad. It could easily be 3/4+ years old. I may be able to get my hands on a multi-meter so I'll check that out later today.
Also, yes, this Sport Trac has the keyless entry (with the number pad on the door).
Just as another observation, when starting the truck (which takes about 2-3 tries now), during a failed try there is a clicking noise coming from what sounds like the steering column. Not sure if that confirms anything good or bad, just thought I'd note it.
So yeah, I'd be much happier if this was just a battery issue than if I had to go digging around with a wiring diagram hunting sensors/switches.
The clicking noise could be a relay dropping out due to a low voltage condition. I'd suggest you start with making sure the battery connections are clean and tight, and if so, replace the battery. If nothing else, having a new battery should provide some peace of mind that at least that's one less thing to cause you issues in the near future. And I think there's a good chance that will solve the other issues you're experiencing currently.
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