Compressor ?
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Greeneville, TN
Compressor ?
I have an 87 Ranger that I'm converting to R-134a
and I need a need a remanufactured Compressor.
The bearings are goiing out in mine. The r-12
compressor I have is Part #6P148a . Should I
get a compressos that is for r134a ? More Truck
specs in my Signiture.....Thanks, Mike
and I need a need a remanufactured Compressor.
The bearings are goiing out in mine. The r-12
compressor I have is Part #6P148a . Should I
get a compressos that is for r134a ? More Truck
specs in my Signiture.....Thanks, Mike
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Greeneville, TN
Compressor ?
The compressor is making a soft rattle with the a/c on,but not off ...system needs charging....last charged 1 year ago. Do you guys think the compressor just needs more oil in the system and the rattle would be resolved when charged?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,987
Likes: 7
From: Memphis, TN
Compressor ?
I think you should have a pro look at it unless you're gonna buy a set of gauges & do some reading on how everything works and how to convert it. If you're thinking about staying with R-12, you'll CERTAINLY have to have a pro do it because you can't buy it and he won't install it unless he knows the system won't leak.
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New User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Greeneville, TN
Compressor ?
I didn't Know a thing about a/c 2 days ago. After buying a Hayes a/c book and looking at all the threads here, Ithink I'm ready to change my r12 to r134a.
Parts: New Accumulator XH7
New low pressure Barrier hose (mine was
leaking).
Ford a/c and fuel line spring lock coupling
tool
PGA 42 oil
"O" ring kit
High and Low
Parts to get:
High Pressure cutout switch
Red Orifice tube
Vaccum pump
First I have cleaned the fins on my Radiator and condenser. Then I cleaned all my a/c fittings and compressor as they were dirty. Checked all my belts for wear. Topped off radiator fluid.
Tomorrow I am going to have the r12 removed and a leak check done.
I have a question about the vaccume process. At what point do I install my new parts? If the shop vaccums the system,should i change out my new parts and install the new "O" Rings before they vaccume it? I really don't want old stuff in my system vaccumed through my new Orifice valve. My system needs a total of 10oz of oil and 2.5lbs of refridg, do I open my system to install the new oil?
Parts: New Accumulator XH7
New low pressure Barrier hose (mine was
leaking).
Ford a/c and fuel line spring lock coupling
tool
PGA 42 oil
"O" ring kit
High and Low
Parts to get:
High Pressure cutout switch
Red Orifice tube
Vaccum pump
First I have cleaned the fins on my Radiator and condenser. Then I cleaned all my a/c fittings and compressor as they were dirty. Checked all my belts for wear. Topped off radiator fluid.
Tomorrow I am going to have the r12 removed and a leak check done.
I have a question about the vaccume process. At what point do I install my new parts? If the shop vaccums the system,should i change out my new parts and install the new "O" Rings before they vaccume it? I really don't want old stuff in my system vaccumed through my new Orifice valve. My system needs a total of 10oz of oil and 2.5lbs of refridg, do I open my system to install the new oil?
New User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Compressor ?
Recover the 12, make your repairs, evacuate to 29 in. for at least 30 min., charge it, and you're done.
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Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 9
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From: Greeneville, TN
Compressor ?
Still one more question....after I replace my "O" rings, accumulator, orifice valve, and hoses, do I pour the PAG oil into the compressor and accumulator???? Then vaccum the system prior to recharging??? Isn't vaccuming the system going to remove the PAG oil also???? When I recharge the system, how do I know if enough Oil has been regharged back into it? do I recharge with PAG oil separatly then charge the 134a?
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 1,577
Likes: 0
From: Southern MD
Compressor ?
You have put the proper amount of new oil in the compressor (low side) and rotate it several times. Put the required amount of oil in the drier/accumulator, and the rest in the condenser. You'll have to check you manual for quanities. I believe the total oil is 7 oz.
It is recommended to pull 29" of vacuum for an hour. When first pulling the vacuum, open the low side first, then slowly open the high side. You will not suck any oil out if the proper amount was installed.
It is recommended to pull 29" of vacuum for an hour. When first pulling the vacuum, open the low side first, then slowly open the high side. You will not suck any oil out if the proper amount was installed.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,987
Likes: 7
From: Memphis, TN
Compressor ?
You also need a 16oz bottle of flush ~$20.
After evacuating the R-12, you TOTALLY disassemble the system to the point that you can pour in the flush and blow it and the old mineral oil out. Then you reassemble it with everything (including the oil in the appropriate places & all-new O-rings) EXCEPT the accumulator/drier, and go to where they'll pull the vacuum. When they're ready for you, quickly install the drier (so it's not exposed to the air very long) and do the vacuum test. If it passes, you can go home and charge it with refrigerant to the appropriate pressure and you're done.
If it fails the vacuum test, you should remove the drier and cap it while you locate the leak & repair it.
For more info (possibly more than you want to know
), go to BroncoData and dl the MACS Refrigeration test manual. (It's a HUGE file, so be prepared.)
After evacuating the R-12, you TOTALLY disassemble the system to the point that you can pour in the flush and blow it and the old mineral oil out. Then you reassemble it with everything (including the oil in the appropriate places & all-new O-rings) EXCEPT the accumulator/drier, and go to where they'll pull the vacuum. When they're ready for you, quickly install the drier (so it's not exposed to the air very long) and do the vacuum test. If it passes, you can go home and charge it with refrigerant to the appropriate pressure and you're done.
If it fails the vacuum test, you should remove the drier and cap it while you locate the leak & repair it.
For more info (possibly more than you want to know
), go to BroncoData and dl the MACS Refrigeration test manual. (It's a HUGE file, so be prepared.)
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 72
Likes: 1
From: Allegany, NY
Compressor ?
vacumming it down will pull out very little oil, just the air and moisture
also check out the threads on this site http://www.aircondition.com/
also check out the threads on this site http://www.aircondition.com/
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