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Help with bleeding brakes

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Old Sep 1, 2014 | 11:24 AM
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Help with bleeding brakes

Brakes were stuck. Replaced both front calipers, pads and rubber brake hoses at the calipers. Bled the brakes two ways, with the bottle and hose method and the old school where you pump up, hold, crack the bleeder and repeat. Never could get peddle to feel great so started the truck just to see if some computer, sensor or whatever would make a difference and had no peddle at all,, or least a lot worse. A code popped up on the dash but couldn't read it good. Maybe was TDC. Or TBC. Any help would be great. Thanks
 
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Old Sep 1, 2014 | 11:28 AM
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Order some Russell speed bleeders. IMHO the best thing since sliced bread for bleeding brakes. Takes about 30 minutes to install and bleed/change the brake fluid the first time and about 15 minutes or less from then on. I got 4 shipped to the house from Jegs for less than $20. Also take the time and flush your power steering fluid. Your brake pedal will be incredible.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2014 | 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by npccpartsman
Order some Russell speed bleeders. IMHO the best thing since sliced bread for bleeding brakes. Takes about 30 minutes to install and bleed/change the brake fluid the first time and about 15 minutes or less from then on. I got 4 shipped to the house from Jegs for less than $20. Also take the time and flush your power steering fluid. Your brake pedal will be incredible.
Great tip....why I love this place....always someone on the cutting edge!

You wouldn't happen to remember the thread pitch or part number would ya?

Thanks
Joe
 
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Old Sep 1, 2014 | 12:23 PM
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Could you explain that part about the power steering fluid flush affecting the brake pedal?
 
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Old Sep 1, 2014 | 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by npccpartsman
Order some Russell speed bleeders. IMHO the best thing since sliced bread for bleeding brakes. Takes about 30 minutes to install and bleed/change the brake fluid the first time and about 15 minutes or less from then on. I got 4 shipped to the house from Jegs for less than $20. Also take the time and flush your power steering fluid. Your brake pedal will be incredible.
Could you explain that part about the power steering fluid flush affecting the brake pedal?
 
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Old Sep 1, 2014 | 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 87&97Aerostrar
Could you explain that part about the power steering fluid flush affecting the brake pedal?
Ha ha. Not sure I'm the one to ask about that.

All I know is that the hydroboost uses the powersteering pump as part of the brake system since there's no vacuum to power it. Flushing the fluid greatly improved my pedal. I bet one of our resident engineers can explain exactly why.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2014 | 12:45 PM
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Tim you pretty much spot on. Knowen issues with ps fluid causing poor performance with stoping do to hydroboost
 
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Old Sep 1, 2014 | 02:29 PM
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Didn't really see the answer, sorry. So are you saying there is still air in the system? That I need to bleed better? Thanks
 
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Old Sep 1, 2014 | 03:05 PM
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Did you bleed all 4 brakes? Start with the right rear first, then left rear, then front right and last, left right. Farthest to closest. I also installed a Magnefine filter in the ps return line after flushing. Brakes are at the top of the pedal with over 60,000 on the original pads and calipers. Incidentally, I always bleed with the engine running. Much quicker and easier that way. Never did get around to ordering Tim's speed bleeders but then that would take time away from my garage time. LOL
 
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Old Sep 1, 2014 | 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by joe blow
Great tip....why I love this place....always someone on the cutting edge!

You wouldn't happen to remember the thread pitch or part number would ya?

Thanks
Joe
I don't remember the part number but they're easy to site reference from the vendor.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2014 | 04:12 PM
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master cylinder bleed

always be sure to do the "bench bleed" on the master cylinder (or the equivalent on the truck) the critical issue is not to push the cylinder more than an inch (3/4 to be safe), elsewise the rear piston sucks air due to generated vacuum and never will bleed properly. You see this by attaching a line to the output of the rear cylinder and running it back to the reservoir and pushing the cylinder all the way in. You will see continuous bubbles. If you only push it 1 inch it clears. Sometimes it may take 20 or more one inch pumps to get the rear cylinder bled. This can be very frustrating if the master cylinder is not bled properly to start.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2014 | 04:17 PM
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Do you have to bleed the rear if I only replaced the front calipers? And as far as doin it with the engine running, it did seem to have decent peddle until I started it.? What does bleeding with the engine running do?
 
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Old Sep 1, 2014 | 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by npccpartsman
I don't remember the part number but they're easy to site reference from the vendor.
3/8-24 X 1-3/16

I use the Speedbleeders as well. Front and rear calipers are the same.

Josh
 
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Old Sep 1, 2014 | 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by lewis racing
Do you have to bleed the rear if I only replaced the front calipers? And as far as doin it with the engine running, it did seem to have decent peddle until I started it.? What does bleeding with the engine running do?
I only know of one way to bleed brakes and that's with the farthest wheel from the master cylinder first, just like 69CJ said. I've never done them with the engine running so that part I don't know.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2014 | 07:17 PM
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Brake pedal, engine running vs. not

Sort of the same question I guess. Brake pedal after bleeding felt pretty good until I started it. What would cause this? I didn't bleed the rear but I will tomorrow. Master cylinder may have gotten low so maybe some air in the back?
 
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