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We all know the standard bleeding method, start at right rear, then left rear, right front, left front, keep the master cyl full, bla bla, I have a 79F150 and was looking at the Haynes manual, it talked about pulling the bleeder rod on the differential valve. (usually on the frame under the driver) This of course is for disc brakes it said, and you can even make a tool to hold it out, but its faster to use vise grips to hold the pin out. So in a nut shell it says to bleed the brakes with the pin out, then when your done release it, It claims to let the fluid go to the front calipers ( I still got fluid to bleed before that) Is this a mandatory thing? Has anyone ever heard of this before? My checker auto guy has never heard such a thing. THANKS
it talked about pulling the bleeder rod on the differential valve.
the proportioning valve? i have never done it this way, i always did it the way you said farthest first and never had a problem. i never did look at the manual for brake bleeding tho so you learn something new every day
Thanks for the info Mil1ion, have you actually heard why they suggest that? I would think it must be a more thorough bleeding or they would not advise to do it that way. I have not done this yet, but will in a few days when I get a spare min. I put new caliper seal and dust boot kits in and I think she is going to work slick, no leaks yet! For only a few bucks each, I dont know why more dont rebuild their calipers. I didn't realize my dust boots were torn and letting moisture to the piston. Got the new copper washers to install the lines again, I hear this is highly recommended and very cheap. Anyone else that knows what the bleeding rod bleed procedure accomplishes, let us know, THANKS
All,
Fact of the matter is: the proportioning valve allows the rear brakes to engage before the front. I'm not sure what the exact pressure is but the new trucks, 1995 for example, used about 100 psi to the rear brakes before the front calipers would start to engage. If you can develope 100 psi in the rear brakes you should be able to push fluid to the front brakes. Thereby avoiding the pushing or pulling of this mysterious and arkane "proportioning bleeder pin".
Believe it or not,
KingFisher
i have bled my fare share of 79 bronco- f-series and never ever pulled any pin in the proportioning valve and the brakes worked every single time i stepped on them
I have used both methods, pulling the pin seems to work better. Soft brake pedals were the usual result of using the std method. When the pin is pulled they seemed to be firm up better.
From the number of posts we get here re soft brake pedals and poor brakes there seems to be a reoccurring problem. Maybe it would just be better to follow the factory directions...
Torque1st, I think you hit it right on the head, the regular method seems to work for most and most are satisfied with the brakes because they work, but they probably are a little more firmer when done the factory way. I guess just because fluid comes out when you bleed them the normal way, doesnt mean its getting bled the best it can, GOOD ONE!
All,
The brakes are either bled properly, or they are not bled. If there is a varing degrees of quality, it should not be on brakes.
Secondly, if you can develope 100 psi in the rear brake lines by pumping the pedal, you will pump fluid to the front. If you are on a factory line with a completely airbound system and have 30 seconds to bleed the entire system, you may need to pull the pin to get fluid to the front.
Consider it,
KingFisher
P.S. I have bled roughly over a dozen different 65-79 1/2 ton brake systems and never had to touch the pin. I am convinced it is a factory assembly aid and nothing more.
dfischer1, i could'nt agree with you anymore, you either get the air out of the system or you don't, pulling the pin is not going to get out the air out of the system any differently than doing it the normal way of cracking the bleeder
Tonight I will try the bleed pin method and see if it improves or stays the same and will post the results. Right now I have to give it a second pump to get the brakes to grab good, But I am guessing my back brakes could use some adjusting, but i wont monkey with them until after I check the other bleed method > stay tuned!
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