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Brake Bleeding Procedure ?

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Old Jul 16, 2003 | 02:25 PM
  #16  
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Brake Bleeding Procedure ?

Adjust the back brakes b4 bleeding.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2003 | 02:38 PM
  #17  
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dfisher1
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Brake Bleeding Procedure ?

Eric,
Your opinions are gospel aroung here. I respect them.
But.....If your rear brakes are adjusted and not airbound, it is a complete waste of time to pull the pin. Unless...... you have no one to pump the pedal...........then you could use the pin in a gravity bleed situation.
So maybe, the stupid, useless, pin does have a purpose. Though that purpose is rather insignificant.
If you own a ford truck, then you definitely have many friends. Therefore, you would always have someone to pump the pedal.
Let's see you argue with that flawless logic! HA!
KingFisher
 
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Old Jul 16, 2003 | 06:00 PM
  #18  
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Brake Bleeding Procedure ?

hehehe

I usually end up using a vac bleeder and pulling the pin, -works great and I can watch all of that nasty old fluid leave the system. It also does not depend on the coordination of your buddies. It also avoids any overtravel in the MC that can tear up the piston seals.

There is a thread in the garage forum about building a pressure bleeder.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2003 | 11:54 PM
  #19  
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Brake Bleeding Procedure ?

Before reading the latest reply, I replaced my plugged left rear bleed screw, then pulled the pin out, (dont think it was much more than 1/16 or 1/8th of an inch, it didnt seem to move much)
I lightly clamped on a vise grip, put a open end wrench and a washer behind it to keep the pin out as far as it would go, then bled all the wheels. (The fluid appeared to bleed out the front screws at a little higher flow) I took her for a drive and it did not seem to brake any different, still needed the second pump because my back brakes have not been adjusted for ever.( I think this is the reason) So I will now play with the rear brakes, I was thinking about pulling the wheels, and adusting the pads out till they almost contact the drum, I don't know if I should have much faith in the auto adusters, will check to see if they move freely, or are gummed up. I think about 6 yrs ago, I replaced the rear brakes and put antiseize lub on the threads. The saga continues!
 

Last edited by tack338; Jul 17, 2003 at 12:04 AM.
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Old Jul 17, 2003 | 03:51 AM
  #20  
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Brake Bleeding Procedure ?

If any of the teeth are worn on the adjuster they will not work. The adjusting pawl can also wear out. You can buy a new parts kit for the drum brakes, it is worth it. I always use anti-sieze on the adjuster. Just put a very thin film on and wipe off any excess.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2003 | 07:56 AM
  #21  
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dfisher1
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Brake Bleeding Procedure ?

All,
Unfortunately, any petroleum product will attract brake dust and will cause the adjuster to bind. Your best bet is to lightly wire brush the assembly until it turns freely and assemble it dry. If it is corroded, you'll have to replace it.
Good Luck,
KingFisher
PS. Don't be afraid of over adjusting your rear brakes. Its OK to adjust them until they drag on the rear drum. That contact will break in very quickly (10 min.) of driving will burn off any over adjusting. Just don't adjust to a point where you can't turn it by hand.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2003 | 08:37 PM
  #22  
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Brake Bleeding Procedure ?

The good thing is that the adjuster threads are always moving out of the sealed "housing" so new threads are exposed all the time. Brake dust is not carried back inside the housing during operation which could cause binding.

dfisher1 is correct on the brake adjustment. Adjust them out until you can feel the drag.
 
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