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One thing I've discovered, is that over the years engines change due to wear, leaks, electrical resistance changes, so by the book at some point really does no good and you end up tuning it by sight, sound, touch and smell with similar results. ~Bill
Incidentally a vacuum gauge is easily one of the most useful yet inexpensive diagnostic tools for the mechanic to own. Also known as "the poor man's Sun machine." I don't know why anyone would be without one, especially on the vintage iron.
I find it so useful (especially on a modified engine) I actually have one permanently mounted in my cab. My gauge cluster consists of: Vacuum, Fuel Pressure, and an A/F meter. With these three gauges I can monitor the performance of my engine and tune it.
True. My add-on gauge has AFR and vacuum showing, and that combo proved to me the other day that I had a problem as the AFR was rich. Sure enough, the gas had gelled in the carb and some passages were blocked. But I don't use either readout to tune the idle. In fact, I did turn the idle yesterday as it wasn't quite right after I rebuilt the carb to get the gell out. And I tuned it by ear w/o a gauge or even removing the air cleaner.
True. My add-on gauge has AFR and vacuum showing, and that combo proved to me the other day that I had a problem as the AFR was rich. Sure enough, the gas had gelled in the carb and some passages were blocked. But I don't use either readout to tune the idle. In fact, I did turn the idle yesterday as it wasn't quite right after I rebuilt the carb to get the gell out. And I tuned it by ear w/o a gauge or even removing the air cleaner.
I've been following your A/F tuning thread. I have the Innovate Motorsports meter.
I don't tune for idle speed (besides with all the performance parts on my engine it isn't expected to idle nice). I tune for cruise and WOT.
Also, I found it very useful in tuning my Nitrous shot. The out of the box jetting was extremely rich (N2O kits typically error on the side of being too rich).