shudder at 35-45mph help
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Senior User
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From: Salem Oregon
shudder at 35-45mph help
I have a 1985 F350 2wd 7.3 C6 that has begun to shudder in the front end between the speeds of 35-45mph, less when accelerating through, more when speed holding steady. Also starts a bit at speeds approaching 70mph.
I replaced the front outer bearings as the grease was old and looked bad and replaced with better grease.
When on a jack, the only movement from rocking on the front tires is side to side a little, both tires at the same time with slight movement in the steering assembly all the way back to the steering box, little bit of rotation back and fourth. ..
Is the steering my issue?
Thoughts?
I'd like to get this fixed in the next day or so if possible as i have to drive a couple trips..
Thanks,
Steven.
I replaced the front outer bearings as the grease was old and looked bad and replaced with better grease.
When on a jack, the only movement from rocking on the front tires is side to side a little, both tires at the same time with slight movement in the steering assembly all the way back to the steering box, little bit of rotation back and fourth. ..
Is the steering my issue?
Thoughts?
I'd like to get this fixed in the next day or so if possible as i have to drive a couple trips..
Thanks,
Steven.
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 67
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From: Las Vegas Nevada
Have you had the tires re balanced recently or checked. Could be a tire out of balance or tread starting to separate.
Than go to a Front-end shop. They can check and tell you what if any suspension issues and do not usually cost for an inspection only.
Did you notice any play in the King pin bushings, or the tie-rod ends. How much play in the steering gear box? Does your truck pull any direction or stay straight when you release the wheel as you drive down the road? These are questions the mechanic may ask if you go to the front end shop.
Good luck
Than go to a Front-end shop. They can check and tell you what if any suspension issues and do not usually cost for an inspection only.
Did you notice any play in the King pin bushings, or the tie-rod ends. How much play in the steering gear box? Does your truck pull any direction or stay straight when you release the wheel as you drive down the road? These are questions the mechanic may ask if you go to the front end shop.
Good luck
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Salem Oregon
Tires are still like new, haven't had any issues with the tread, none of the joints feel or look loose, have only observed the little play in steering going back to the bottom shaft on the steering box that turns steering rods (forgot the terminology).
Truck goes straight down the road...
Truck goes straight down the road...
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Joined: Aug 2011
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From: Las Vegas Nevada
How many miles on the tires? If low number a tire could have slipped enough on rim to cause tire to be out of balance. Not familiar with the suspension of your 2X4. I-Beams, Straight axle or Upper and lower control arms? When you checked the tire play did you pull from the top and bottom of the tires as well as side to side?
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From: Salem Oregon
10k or so, took the truck in a little while back for a front flat repair as I had a self tapping screw in the tread. 45 minutes later they told me it had not penatrated through so no repair was needed. Problems seems to start a week or 2 later.
Up front there is a single swing arm from the front to the tire assembly with a coil spring and shock absorber behind it.
While the front was jacked up, I pushed top bottom and sides. Nothing moved but the truck and the steering assembly.
Up front there is a single swing arm from the front to the tire assembly with a coil spring and shock absorber behind it.
While the front was jacked up, I pushed top bottom and sides. Nothing moved but the truck and the steering assembly.
How many miles on the tires? If low number a tire could have slipped enough on rim to cause tire to be out of balance. Not familiar with the suspension of your 2X4. I-Beams, Straight axle or Upper and lower control arms? When you checked the tire play did you pull from the top and bottom of the tires as well as side to side?
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Senior User
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From: Salem Oregon
Took it into les schwab, they gave free a free wheel balence to see if that worked, it didn't.
Took it to a mechanic who test drove it first thing...
Told me I needed a piece of steel on the frame rails where the bumper used to be (just got done bolting a large heavy duty section of U channel on).
Also said it was my radius arm bushings where the arm connects to the truck. I was quoted at most $450 on the repair with an alignment.
Looking up the cost of the bushings on rockauto, not too expensive.
Is it something I could do myself in an afternoon with relative ease or something I should have a professional do?
If I do, do it myself, what other things should I replace while I'm there for good measure?
Thanks,
Steven.
Took it to a mechanic who test drove it first thing...
Told me I needed a piece of steel on the frame rails where the bumper used to be (just got done bolting a large heavy duty section of U channel on).
Also said it was my radius arm bushings where the arm connects to the truck. I was quoted at most $450 on the repair with an alignment.
Looking up the cost of the bushings on rockauto, not too expensive.
Is it something I could do myself in an afternoon with relative ease or something I should have a professional do?
If I do, do it myself, what other things should I replace while I'm there for good measure?
Thanks,
Steven.
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Joined: Apr 2005
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Radius arm bushings are pretty easy. Only really hard part is getting the nuts broke loose, they can be stubborn sometimes.
You want to jack the truck up by the frame to take the tension off the axle when you do it.
If your axle pivot bushings need replacement that's something you'll need help on. Getting the axle off is easy enough, but the bushing is pressed in so you'll want to go to your local machine shop with the axle(s) and get the bushings pressed in. Last time I did it it cost me $15 to press the new one in. Already had the old one out and had the new bushing.
If the pivots are fine then just do the radius and call it good.
You want to jack the truck up by the frame to take the tension off the axle when you do it.
If your axle pivot bushings need replacement that's something you'll need help on. Getting the axle off is easy enough, but the bushing is pressed in so you'll want to go to your local machine shop with the axle(s) and get the bushings pressed in. Last time I did it it cost me $15 to press the new one in. Already had the old one out and had the new bushing.
If the pivots are fine then just do the radius and call it good.
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From: Salem Oregon
Just watched a video on replacing the axle pivot bushings, looked at mine and based on some rubber I saw, they probably need to be replaced.
Looks like a fairly easy replacement with the right tools... Will look into getting the tools or making some.
After replacing the bushings, will it need an alignment if I end up being able to fix it without removing the axle from the truck?
Looks like a fairly easy replacement with the right tools... Will look into getting the tools or making some.
After replacing the bushings, will it need an alignment if I end up being able to fix it without removing the axle from the truck?
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I've heard people claim they can change their own pivot bushings, but they must know voodoo that I couldn't figure out. I tried a BFH. Nothing. I tried the bolt/washer/nut trick, nada, just messed up the bolts and washers. I took the axle to work and placed the axle on concrete, bushing over the hole, bottle jack on top of the bushing and jacked up a loaded Pines 28' semi trailer with that combo, the bushing didn't budge. Was glad to pay the $15.
The pivot bushings will not affect toe and toe is the only adjustible alignment measure on a twin I beam. (Without bending the axles which isn't recomemnded anyway.) They will affect camber, but replacing the bushings should put you back to spec.
The radius arm bushings will affect toe though, so alignment might be needed anyway.
The pivot bushings will not affect toe and toe is the only adjustible alignment measure on a twin I beam. (Without bending the axles which isn't recomemnded anyway.) They will affect camber, but replacing the bushings should put you back to spec.
The radius arm bushings will affect toe though, so alignment might be needed anyway.
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Note that you will have the axle 90% removed. The bolt that holds the radius arm to the axle also holds the spring to the axle and then when you pull the pivot bolt the only thing holding the axle in at that point is the brake line, shock, and tie rod.
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From: Salem, OR
Steven-
I did my radius arm bushings w/a come-a-long and a floor jack, not all that hard.
On the axle pivot bushings, if you can get the rubber out of the outer shell, you can use a torch to burn all remaining rubber out. They make urethane bushings that fit inside your existing outer shell. If you want to do the radius arm bushings, bring it over, I have the stuff to get it done.
I did my radius arm bushings w/a come-a-long and a floor jack, not all that hard.
On the axle pivot bushings, if you can get the rubber out of the outer shell, you can use a torch to burn all remaining rubber out. They make urethane bushings that fit inside your existing outer shell. If you want to do the radius arm bushings, bring it over, I have the stuff to get it done.
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From: Salem Oregon
Im tempted to build one, similar to the C-clamp design from some steel I have and a large bolt from home depot...
then some oversized 3/4" sockets I have unless Im not lucky enough and end up having to use the lathe and make something of the correct size.
If I had to rent one, aka buy it, I would not return it, would rather add it to my slowly growing collection of specialty tools for working on my truck.
then some oversized 3/4" sockets I have unless Im not lucky enough and end up having to use the lathe and make something of the correct size.
If I had to rent one, aka buy it, I would not return it, would rather add it to my slowly growing collection of specialty tools for working on my truck.
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FORD F-250 I BEAM PIVOT REPLCEMENT: FORD F-250 I BEAM PIVOT REPLCEMENT - YouTube
This video is what saw and I believe I can fabricate a similiar tool to remove the bushing...
This video is what saw and I believe I can fabricate a similiar tool to remove the bushing...
But I do prefer to do my own work so if that tool is obtainable and makes it possible I'm all for it.