ignition problem - no spark after replacing icm
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 84
Likes: 1
From: NE Washington State
ignition problem - no spark after replacing icm
Hi guys,
I have an ignition problem after replacing my fender mounted ignition control module. No spark at coil with new module. Reinstalled old module and got some spark for a few seconds but than nothing!
I suspect the old plug wiring but not sure how to proceed. The inside of the old plugs were filled with old dielectric grease-I think. I cleaned out a bunch of it and put new dielectric grease on the contacts before assembly. Is there such a thing as too much dielectric? One of the connectors (four pin) has two black wires that have bare wire showing just outside the connector - I believe these are ground wires but don't think they were meant to be exposed like that and they look a little brittle.
Any advise / suggestions would be appreciated.
thanks in advance,
Chuck
I have an ignition problem after replacing my fender mounted ignition control module. No spark at coil with new module. Reinstalled old module and got some spark for a few seconds but than nothing!
I suspect the old plug wiring but not sure how to proceed. The inside of the old plugs were filled with old dielectric grease-I think. I cleaned out a bunch of it and put new dielectric grease on the contacts before assembly. Is there such a thing as too much dielectric? One of the connectors (four pin) has two black wires that have bare wire showing just outside the connector - I believe these are ground wires but don't think they were meant to be exposed like that and they look a little brittle.
Any advise / suggestions would be appreciated.
thanks in advance,
Chuck
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 39
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Is this DuraSpark II?
If so, check the resistance of the pickup in the distributor the next time it dies.
Heat can affect it.
Unplug the distributor and connect an ohmmeter to the orange and the purple wires.
I believe it should read between 450-1,000 ohms.
If so, check the resistance of the pickup in the distributor the next time it dies.
Heat can affect it.
Unplug the distributor and connect an ohmmeter to the orange and the purple wires.
I believe it should read between 450-1,000 ohms.
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 84
Likes: 1
From: NE Washington State
update on no spark problem
Update on where I am today:
Verified that the coil is good!
Have downloaded a couple of wiring diagrams and while the icm wire are the same for both old and new modules, the connectors from dist. and coil have additional wires.
The engine side plug I have has the following:
(2) black wires - both entering the connector through the same hole.
(1) yellow (maybe should be orange) but looks yellow to me
(1) green
(1) purple
(1) blue
The downloaded diagrams have:
1 @ orange,black, purple - all going to distributor
(1) green going to the coil
Any idea what my extra wires are for?
Also the connectors have a plastic body with rubber inserts on each end. Can these be pulled apart without destroying them? I'm thinking I may have a broken or corroded connector inside?
"Roadrash" I'll check with O'riellys, but I don't think an ICM is a part that they can test.
Thanks
Verified that the coil is good!
Have downloaded a couple of wiring diagrams and while the icm wire are the same for both old and new modules, the connectors from dist. and coil have additional wires.
The engine side plug I have has the following:
(2) black wires - both entering the connector through the same hole.
(1) yellow (maybe should be orange) but looks yellow to me
(1) green
(1) purple
(1) blue
The downloaded diagrams have:
1 @ orange,black, purple - all going to distributor
(1) green going to the coil
Any idea what my extra wires are for?
Also the connectors have a plastic body with rubber inserts on each end. Can these be pulled apart without destroying them? I'm thinking I may have a broken or corroded connector inside?
"Roadrash" I'll check with O'riellys, but I don't think an ICM is a part that they can test.
Thanks
Thread Starter
|
Cross-Country
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 84
Likes: 1
From: NE Washington State
No spark update
Jim,
Thanks for the info on those additional wires.
On resistance testing the orange and purple distributor wires - Am I testing on the distributor side or the ICM side?
Also, is there a trick to getting those connectors unplugged? I don't seem to have enough hands, fingers, etc. or the right tool to pull these plugs apart. I guess if I break the tabs off I can just tape the connectors together later.
Thanks again,
Chuck
Thanks for the info on those additional wires.
On resistance testing the orange and purple distributor wires - Am I testing on the distributor side or the ICM side?
Also, is there a trick to getting those connectors unplugged? I don't seem to have enough hands, fingers, etc. or the right tool to pull these plugs apart. I guess if I break the tabs off I can just tape the connectors together later.
Thanks again,
Chuck
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 39
From: EXTREME southwest CT
The pickup is inside the distributor.
That's the side that needs to be tested.
Yes those plugs get old, stiff and brittle.
That distributor plug is unobtainable even from Ford/Motorcraft.
If the pins inside are corroded they can be a bear to get apart.
No, there's no such thing as 'too much" corrosion protection.
Use a liberal squirt of silicone dielectric grease on reassembly to keep moisture out.
Tape doesn't seem to hold for long, what with the heat and fumes under the hood.
(and the grease that you just put there)
I use a tiny little zip tie run around lengthwise and between the wires on each side of the connector if the tabs break off.
That's the side that needs to be tested.
Yes those plugs get old, stiff and brittle.
That distributor plug is unobtainable even from Ford/Motorcraft.
If the pins inside are corroded they can be a bear to get apart.
No, there's no such thing as 'too much" corrosion protection.
Use a liberal squirt of silicone dielectric grease on reassembly to keep moisture out.
Tape doesn't seem to hold for long, what with the heat and fumes under the hood.
(and the grease that you just put there)
I use a tiny little zip tie run around lengthwise and between the wires on each side of the connector if the tabs break off.
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Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 84
Likes: 1
From: NE Washington State
Update on so spark condition
I now have spark and a running truck again. The problem was too much dielectric grease in the connector and on the contacts. I think I had a senior moment when I was installing the new ICM and put dielectric on the contacts themselves. Not a good idea. After cleaning out the contacts ( I soaked them overnight in alcohol then sprayed out with WD40 and compressed air. After reassembly she started right up.
The new module seems to have fixed the original problem of misfiring after 20 or 30 minutes of run time. I warmed it up and ran it up and down hills for 45 minutes with not one miss.
Thanks to all for your help and suggestions.
Chuck M.
The new module seems to have fixed the original problem of misfiring after 20 or 30 minutes of run time. I warmed it up and ran it up and down hills for 45 minutes with not one miss.
Thanks to all for your help and suggestions.
Chuck M.
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