You have two threads open for the same problem and it's starting to get confusing. Maybe a moderator can merge the threads into one.

 

Here is where I am at.....yes, it was def. a plumbing issue that I made when I put the tank back in after repaint.....I hooked the return line up to the supply line and the supply line up to the return inlet......introducing nothing but air once the WVO went dry.....

I have since changed the lines around, replaced the fuel filter, purged the system and have some firing but the truck won't start.

It feels as if it is only firing on one side if that is possible.

Gonna try a few other things, but I am open to suggestions. My brother, who has the same truck said it may be the CPS....I am open to trying one of those.....But still, open to suggestions.

Thanks Andys350......that was a helpful couple of posts....

 

sorry about the two threads.....hoping so. I couldn't find the first one I posted, must not have refreshed my browser.....MODERATOR....PLEASE MERGE???

 

If it's firing at all, it isn't the CPS. Turn the ignition on and listen for the fuel pump to shut off (about 20 seconds) then shut the ignition off. Repeat that four or five times, or even more if you have a filter in the line before the pump, then try starting again.

 

Scan tool brought up 2 codes for ICP.....one CPS code......I'm starting with the CPS.....

 

It's fairly common for codes to pop up after cranking it to the point the batteries have been run down, but a CPS is a cheap enough thing to swap out. What were the code numbers?

 

I don't know what the code numbers were....but I read this about the ICP on the screen....One said "low voltage" which would make sense due to the batteries being taxed today......the other said "Unexpected voltage"

But I think the truck would start after the ICP being unplugged, the default should put it at 2000psi.....

This really sucks. I basically just ran the thing out of fuel last night, this shouldn't be this difficult......

I thought maybe because it was shut down on veg oil, maybe it got a little "thick" today....so I now have the batteries charging and the block heater on to warm it up a little....We shall see....if not, I leave for vacation tomorrow and will be driving a darn Chevy gasser.......to the tune of about $300 bucks in fuel.....I am used to it being free with veg pulling my pontoon......oh well....I'll make more.

 

Disconnecting the ICP sensor doesn't set the pressure to any certain level, per se. What happens is the PCM reports the value it *thinks* the ICP should be based on other parameters, and under the assumption everything else is functioning normally.

What are you using for a scan tool? Can you monitor live data with it while cranking?

 

It was a snap on, the guy said it cost about 15,000 and another 1000 a year to update...either way, it wasnt all what it was cracked up to be. First, he couldn't bring up any data, then he got in.....I asked him about buzz testing everything and reading while we cranked......

Well, he got some data, told me it was "stored data"so who knows when the codes were pulled. He then said sometimes when the codes are wiped, the vehicle will start...as soon as he reset the codes, the scanner kicked him out and he couldn't get back in....so long story short, it was a bust. But I do appreciate him trying.

I finally got the truck started...I think the block heater did the trick. It ran really rough, could only get about 30mph out of it. The banks six gun was reading and ERROR ICP. I started it with the sensor unplugged. the service engine soon light was on too. I plugged the ICP back in, no difference, idled and drove really rough. I shut it off and started it up, ICP warning went away, the dash light was off....but it still ran rough...it idled down and finally shut itself off. I couldn't get it back running again...mainly because I am burnt out.

Vacation time, so I will get back at it when I get home. I am confident it will run again. Next time I get it started, I am going to make sure I have an appointment somewhere that the equipment works.

Thanks for your patience...i appreciate your advice, recommendations and comments. I will be back on this when I return, so there will be more to follow up on.

Mike IN MN

 

My money is on your fuel pressure being low.

 

I was going to start at the tank....I had my dad turn the key to the on position while I was under the diesel tank....no buzzing, no humming no vibration on any of the lines. I also had him do it while I had my ear at the fuel door.....no noise coming from there.....someone correct me if I'm wrong, but shouldn't that be making some noise st the cycle of the key?

 

Fuel pump will be inside the frame rail under the drivers seat. Nothing in the tank to make noise

 

Open the drain valve on the filter housing, turn key on, watch the fuel flow! Fuel pump is working.. No fuel flow, pump not working..

 

Ok, so after a weekend of fishing and pondering, I came to the conclusion it was def. a fuel delivery issue, pretty easy to figure that one out. and it was before the HPOP with what I had diagnosed earlier.

I finally ran across the "GUZZLE" page and realized the fuel bowl/fuel canister needs to hold some fuel pressure and there is a pressure relief valve on the drivers side top of the fuel bowl, or return line to the tank.

Here I found the issue. The housing on the relief valve was broken, I located the spring inside the fuel line before the first bend....no valve, no pressure...

I will update on when the parts come, but I am certain this is the issue now, with broken parts in hand.. pretty simple fix, as most things have been.