I HAVE A COMPLETE STOCK 2006 F250 WITH THE 6.0 POWER STROKE. WHAT CAN I DO TO GET BETTER MILEAGE OUT OF IT? I'M GETTING 11MPG's RIGHT NOW!

 

Is it lifted? That is probably the #1 mileage killer, bigger tires is also. A custom tune can get you potentially some mileage.

 

that does stink for mileage. Is that just driving and not towing?
I've found that 1800 rpm cruise gets me 20+mpg. that's around 64 65mph. I have 373 gears. At 2000rpm (a little over 70mph) it drops down to 19mpg. Bone stock on mine.
Towing is a different story. Just pulling a 18ft Ranger boat I get 15 to 16mpg at 65mph

 

NO ITS NOT LIFTED AT ALL! JUST DRIVING NORMAL. THE ONLY TIME I GET INTO IT IS WHEN I PASS SOMEBODY. I DONT TOW ANYTHING AT ALL EITHER. GONNA DO SOME SNOW PLOWING WITH IT THIS WINTER THOUGH.

 

Please turn off caps lock.

I get about 21 on the highway at 65 MPH in my Excursion 4x4, stock size 265s inflated to 70psi, bone stock in the engine and suspension department. On my most recent long drive (4+ hours) I was carrying 4 kids + wife + about 500 pounds of camping gear on some rural roads with decent hills and got mid-19s. 125,000 miles on the clock, auto transmission.

Supposedly, throwing a custom tow or economy tune will net an increase in fuel mileage. If you're in an area that allows it, going with a straight pipe with cat delete will also net some fuel mileage increase.

Honestly, your mileage leaves some concern out there for why it is so low. There might be some mechanical issues with your truck...

 

How much stop and go driving do you do? Do you idle for long periods of time?

 

Let's dive into this and try to figure this out....that's lousy mileage for a stock truck.....

1. How do you calculate your MPG?
2. What size tires do you have?
3. How much air psi are in the tires?
4. How much city driving & highway driving do you do to get 11 mpg?
5. Do you normally accelerate quickly when leaving stop signs/stoplights?
6. Chock up wheels & jack up 1 axle at a time, check to see if wheels roll easily...will have to put in neutral for rear axle(could have brakes hanging up)
7. Any evidence of fuel leak?


1. How often do you pass people on a tank of fuel?
2. How often do you mash the throttle to the floor?

 

First we have to know if it's running right....we need numbers!

 

I agree. That mileage is not normal. There so many variables that could cause it from a bad injector to boost problems or fuel pressure to low, ebps sensor plugged, map sensor plugged, exhaust leak, clogged fuel filters, wrong fuel filters, old oil, list goes on and on.

 

Duals? 4x4? 4:10 gearing?

 

If you are using aftermarket filters, wrong oil vescocity or grade, cheap fuel. These will eat up the mileage.
I get around 19 empty on freeway doing 70. Go over that it drops to 15. Towing the fifth wheel weighing 13 K we get 10-11 depending on speed and winds. The truck is all stock.

 

My F350 4x4 with 4.10:1 and (17" original ) "duals" gets about 17 mpg on the highway at 60-65.

If I drive it city/highway with fairly aggressive acceleration, it drops to about 13.

The ONLY way to accurately check mileage is to fill the tank until there's liquid in the "neck" that doesn't go down......... and drive it to the next fill.

Then fill it to liquid in the neck a second time and calculate.

 

OP has another thread about his WIF light on, might want to get that sorted before you worry about MPG.

 

I was getting 9 - 11 in mixed driving. I started using Archoil in the fuel and oil and noticed about 1-2 mpg improvement. The next thing I did was got my FICM repaired (FICMrepair.com) along with the Atlas 40 tune. I installed that and I started getting about 14 mpg. As a note my FICM stayed about 47 most of the time and dropped to 44.5 when the temp was below 40 at night. I just got a SCT tuner and turned off the CEL from the EGR delete and I'm now getting almost 17 mpg on a stock tune. Another side note. Just turning off the CEL made the truck run way better and have a lot more power. I had to double check and make sure I didn't upload a tune because of the amount of power. Just took a trip all highway and I was between 20 and 21 mpg. This was all hand calculated as I record all information at every fill up in a log book. The Lie-O-Meter is always within 1mpg of my hand calculations.

 

There are several things that can contribute to low fuel economy on a 6.0:

-Dirty/Plugged EBPS, some Berryman's B12 Carb Cleaner, weed eater line, and a drill will fix this.

-Dirty/Crusty EGR Valve, remove the EGR valve, spray with Carb cleaner, reinstall

-Clogged/Incorrect fuel filters, make sure Motorcraft fuel filters are installed.

-Poor fuel quality, look for high volume fuel stations to fill up. (usually a truck stop or busy gas station) High volume stations don't have fuel that sit for very long, so more often than not, you end up with Fresher fuel. Also, if you don't run an additive when you fill up start with this: Stanadyne/16 oz. fuel injector cleaner (STAN43564) | Fuel Additive and Cleaner | AutoZone.com then drive it like you stole it. You can find it at Autozone along with this to run in your tank after this treatment: Stanadyne/16 oz. diesel fuel additive treatment (STAN38565) | Fuel Additive and Cleaner | AutoZone.com

-Locked hubs, make sure your hubs are in the "free" position and not "locked".

-Stiction, this is an issue with any type of heui injector and is especially prevalent on the 6.0 injectors. Stiction doesn't make itself obvious until the winter months. Even in the Winter months, if you're running an inductive heating flash on your FICM, it covers it up, to a point. To remedy this, consider running Archoil 9100 as it eliminates stiction. AR9100 (16 oz) - Friction Modifier

-FICM Voltage out of spec, using a scanguage 2 or another type of OBD2 monitoring tool, check your ficm votlage KOEO, KOER, and while cranking. If at any point the voltage drops below 45 volts, the power side of the FICM must be repaired or replaced. FICMrepair.com does an awesome job repairing FICMs and stands behind their work. FICM Repair.com - Your Source for FICM Repair

-Coked turbo, your turbo may have rust and carbon build up on it preventing the vanes from opening and closing correctly. You will have to remove to the turbo to clean it following the procedure seen here: Part 1
Part 2

-Intercooler boot clamps, Are they tight and not leaking? 11mm deep well socket will let you know for sure

-Air filter, how old is your air filter? Is it clogged?

-Mass Air Flow sensor, could it be dirty after years of service? Mine was, after some MAF cleaner my truck ran noticably better.