Hey Guys, Just bought a 68 f100 with a 360 ci, C6 auto trans. I test drove the truck all over the guys are with no issues then when I tried to load it on the trailer it died as I applied power. Realized it had ran out of gas so didn't think much of it. Winched it onto the trailer and took it home.... after putting gas in it I am now having an issue, starts up fine, you can rev the engine fine but as soon as you place it in drive and hit the gas the engine bogs down and dies out. I'm thinking its a vacuum issue, or a clogged filter? The clogged filter makes me wonder why it revs fine..... any suggestions?

 

Remove air cleaner and pump throttle. Does the accelerator squirter shoot fuel?

Typically when it doesn't it will usually run "ok" and you can rev it up(with no load). But with no accelerator pump shot(and under load) it will stumble/stall.

Make sure the linkage for the pump is working smoothly. They gum up and get sticky and won't pump quick enough(thus stalling the engine). Squirt some WD40 and see if that makes it work better.

 

Hi Freightrain,

Thanks for the reply, I looked at it and when i move the throttle there is fuel going into the bowl..... should it look like a squirt gun squirt? it looks more like its pouring in.

Thanks for your help.

 

You see fuel going on to the bowl? I think you mean the throat of the carb. Is the fuel coming from the insides (bad power valve) or from the bowl vent holes up top (needle & seat not closing). In either case I'd buy a carb kit and rebuild it.

 

sorry, i dont know my parts but it is coming out of the top part i think ill start with a rebuild, though the guy i bought it from had just rebuilt them. can you screw up a rebuild that bad? i have a feeling its going to end up in the shop lol

 

Welcome to FTE !

Now is the time to buy a Manual so you can figure out what and how to do things.
That way you'll be as smart as us ,well you'll learn stuff and we can help you a long.

We try to answer the little things that the owner of a classic vehicle you should know,
Just the basics stuff that is in a manual can keep you going.
These old trucks can stall out along the road side and you'll be able get it going again
other then call for a tow truck for help. But being the owner of any vehicle one should have some type of road service. And hopefully not have to use it.

Me, I have AAA 200 mile tow service not for my 71 truck but for my 06 vehicle as their is not one dang thing, I can do or check to figure out why it won't run if it stopped on the road side. So to a shop it would go and Nissan is not cheap. Now like $150 bucks an hr. and $500 to replace the spark plugs, but their good for 100k miles.
I may trade it in before paying $500 for plugs and I'm at 84k now.

Any way the point is the old trucks our easy to keep them going once you know the basic things to check and these can be had in a manual.

Or you could line the pockets of a shop owner with thousands by taking it to a shop.

These trucks will do one of two things 1. run for a long time with out doing any thing to it
2. You'll slowly have to replace just about everything one at a time to keep it on the road if you aren't lucky.
Orich

 

There should be two holes on the front/center of the carb throats that squirt fuel when you step on the gas. They are aimed to the center of the rings, called boosters.

This is not the correct carb(hard to find one in Google images), but gives you an idea of what the squirters would look like.



Did find this website to give you some information:
Motorcraft 2100

Typically not a lot to go wrong with an Autolite 2bbl.

 

The needle and seat is not shutting off fuel then. Lawd knows what the PO did when he had it apart. Did he really buy a kit which would come with a new needle and seat? Adjust the float level correctly? Yep I'd buy a kit and rebuild it again. The kit will come with instructions complete with a pic of which parts to take off in numerical order. Install them in reverse order.

 

Hey JEFFAFA and Freightrain, thanks for all the info and the website! Work has been insane but as soon as I can get a free day I will attempt to rebuild the carb and start form there. A guy at work was talking to me about it and he seems to think its the battey not holding a load.... or a vacuum leak. I can take the batter to the parts store and get it tested but any advice for chasing a vacuum leak?

Thanks again!

 

Quick start fluid spray around all rubber lines and carb base.

Check Dizzy Vacuum advance as many people over look them for leaks..

A bad battery cell may show little bubbles when under a load when engine is not running Kind of like a soda light fizzing if shorted. Also the acid may look muddy gray like dish water like..
Orich