So woke up to a flat on my drivers side rear this morning, no problem, borrowed the wife's Civic to get to work, deal with the flat when I get home. Get home jack up the truck remove the lug nuts and the wheel won't budge, get out the 'persuader' and a piece of 2X4, smack the carp out of it and nothing, what the heck? Am I missing something obvious? feel pretty stupid having it towed to the shop for a flat tire.

Colin

 

Try an 8' 2x4 from the opposite side of the truck - usually works on the second or third whack.

 

just thread on a couple of lug nuts. Sit on your butt and kick the top and bottom of the tire till free. you have rust on the back of the wheel and the hub holding it on.

 

PB blaster the lugs and the hub and get a pry bar from the rotor and rim, on the inside, works everytime

 

Don't pry on the rotor.

 

the back of the rim is just corroded to the rotor, no big deal, just gotta get it broke loose.

sounding worse than it is..... just put the lug nuts on finger tight and drive the vehicle back and forth a few feet until the wheel breaks free from the rotor.

you'll hear it when it does.

 

thanks guys, here I thought there was some hidden key-way or something, its soaking with 'Deep Creep' now and I'll give it a few whacks and see what happens. Would suck if this happened 'road side', need to rotate the tires more often I guess.

Colin

 

When you put the wheel back-on ... Anti-Seize is your friend.

Coat studs, the mounting flange of the rim, and especially the hub's center bore.

Rather than having a road-side event, you might as well treat all four.

For me it's one of the first things that gets done after purchasing a vehicle.

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-click- the pic'
Goth 150
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X2 as Joe. I would recommend though that if you do this use a torque wrench when tightening the lug nuts. I also remove the rotors and coat the center hole and the rear edge of the "hat" and the center hub and outer lip of the hub mating surfaces to make changing the rotors or removal of the rotors for any reason easier.

 

Sorry forgot to respond, this worked, thank you.

Funny thing, had the truck in for servicing last week at the dealership, Oil Change, Multi-point inspection, and tire rotation. Couple days after I got the truck back, took a closer look at it and realized that they didn't actually rotate the tires although they charged me for it. makes me wonder if they ever have? With only 50000KMs on the tires they are over 50% worn (wrangler SR-A's). Needless to say dealer got a 'nice' call from me.

Colin

 

glad you got it!

yeah, sometimes you wonder about the guys that work on your stuff. i hate to say it, but i'm "that guy" who stands by the window the whole time ....

 

Good Year Wrangler SRA Tires don't have a long tread life. I've had them on 3 different vehicles including my F150. The tire is rated for 50,000 miles and that's about all you'll get. I'm with meborder, I stand and watch my truck get serviced.

 

Me too, although I do my own service work on all of my vehicles, when I do have something done, I am very thorough about making sure it was done, I will watch even though I hate people looking over my shoulder, which doesn't happen often.

 

I wouldn't let anti-seize near those studs. Just wire brush and paint The wheel and wait till it dries.

 

There is nothing wrong with using anti seize on wheel studs and any other bolt or stud for that matter, provided that it is used correctly. And the bolts or in this case the lug nuts are torqued properly.