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Auto lock hub problem

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Old Aug 9, 2014 | 09:52 PM
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Auto lock hub problem

Have a 2002 F-250 and I did a brake job on the front and decided it would be good time to service the hubs. They have been on for a while so I knew they would be a bear to get off. Pulled the snap rings off and hosed them down with wd40. Got the right side off after a few choice words and beating the tar out of it with a rubber mallet. Left side no luck. Used all the words I know and broke the mallet. Figured the best thing to do is have a beer and put to the forum, has always worked before. Any ideas would be appreciated. Joe
 
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Old Aug 11, 2014 | 01:17 PM
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Joe,

I recently did the same thing, and found that pounding did little good. I was able to remove both of my hubs with two small screwdrivers 180 apart from each other. Pushing on the side of the hub, I levered them off very easily!
 
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Old Aug 11, 2014 | 01:51 PM
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My left side was also an issue, bearing came apart - combo of tapping all the way around to ease it out evenly and prying, as 2004Limited said, worked for me. Ditched the junk hubs & unit bearings and went with a SpynTec hub conversion.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2014 | 09:32 PM
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Thanks for the info. Just got finished with the job about an hour ago. No amount of pounding, prying would get that sucker off. Hub broke and I even tried a slide hammer with no luck. Ended up having to drill it out and get it out in pieces. The o-ring had broke in a few places allowing it to seize to the hub. Got it all cleaned out and put a set of mile maker manual hubs on. If you plan on keeping auto hubs I advise you pull them every spring and clean and grease them every spring. Joe
 
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Old Aug 11, 2014 | 10:08 PM
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Auto lock hubs

Originally Posted by VindexInjuriae
My left side was also an issue, bearing came apart - combo of tapping all the way around to ease it out evenly and prying, as 2004Limited said, worked for me. Ditched the junk hubs & unit bearings and went with a SpynTec hub conversion.
Thanks for the reply. It broke , had to drill it out. Put a set of mile maker s/s manuals on for now. I know this has been asked a million times, but what are your thoughts on leaving manual hubs locked in for extended periods? My 250 has a automatic trans if that makes any difference. I will look up the SpynTech hubs. In my opinion the engineer who designed auto hubs should be burned at the stake, or at least should have had to pull the left off of my truck. Joe
 
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Old Aug 12, 2014 | 01:15 AM
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Originally Posted by joe7327
Thanks for the reply. It broke , had to drill it out. Put a set of mile maker s/s manuals on for now. I know this has been asked a million times, but what are your thoughts on leaving manual hubs locked in for extended periods? My 250 has a automatic trans if that makes any difference. I will look up the SpynTech hubs. In my opinion the engineer who designed auto hubs should be burned at the stake, or at least should have had to pull the left off of my truck. Joe
I would think it would be fine. I have alot of experience with Jeeps and they all come factory (well since the late 80s) with locked hubs from the factory. basically the front diff and driveshaft always spins, but is disconnected from the drivetrain at the t case.


In theory its more wear and tear, I leave mine locked in the winter. I dont really know that much about super duties, but my friend once told me that the OEM hubs are made by Warn and are better then even the aftermarket Warn Premium hubs. Are the air actuated hubs different then the manual ones? Mine are manual factory, but have the capped off barb for the air line.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2014 | 07:35 AM
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When I was stationed in North Dakota I left my hubs locked all winter without issue, as did the majority of people I knew up there with manual hubs. I also ran in 4x4 for extended periods on surface roads, without any problems. I lived in a remote area that was infrequently plowed and it was common to have 3'-4' drifts across the road and heavy packed snow/ice covering the surface. I ran synthetics in my drivetrain, serviced it regularly and periodically pulled the truck into a shop with forced heat to thaw out & melt the ice buildup.
Longest run I made was from Minot to Stevensville, MT in a blizzard, 800+ miles in 4x4 the entire way - no issues with the truck. Some may have a different experience or opinion on the subject, but I never had any mechanical issues from it.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2014 | 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by AAubinoe
I would think it would be fine. I have alot of experience with Jeeps and they all come factory (well since the late 80s) with locked hubs from the factory. basically the front diff and driveshaft always spins, but is disconnected from the drivetrain at the t case.


In theory its more wear and tear, I leave mine locked in the winter. I dont really know that much about super duties, but my friend once told me that the OEM hubs are made by Warn and are better then even the aftermarket Warn Premium hubs. Are the air actuated hubs different then the manual ones? Mine are manual factory, but have the capped off barb for the air line.
They have a rubber diaphram inside the hub, with two flat plastic coin looking pieces with a spring clip ( sorry, don't know the proper name for it). The problem is how they slide into the hub. They are held in with a snap ring, with a groove in the hub for an o-ring to keep out dirt dust etc. The hub has no separate cab like a manual hub. The problem is if the o-ring fails, the hub will seize to the axle hub.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2014 | 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by VindexInjuriae
When I was stationed in North Dakota I left my hubs locked all winter without issue, as did the majority of people I knew up there with manual hubs. I also ran in 4x4 for extended periods on surface roads, without any problems. I lived in a remote area that was infrequently plowed and it was common to have 3'-4' drifts across the road and heavy packed snow/ice covering the surface. I ran synthetics in my drivetrain, serviced it regularly and periodically pulled the truck into a shop with forced heat to thaw out & melt the ice buildup.
Longest run I made was from Minot to Stevensville, MT in a blizzard, 800+ miles in 4x4 the entire way - no issues with the truck. Some may have a different experience or opinion on the subject, but I never had any mechanical issues from it.
Thanks, I didn't think it would be a problem, but it never hurts to ask. Sounds like you have had plenty of experience.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2014 | 11:23 AM
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My hubs are dated 10/14/03, and I have 77K on them, and have only cleaned them once!

I know that mine probably have been pampered, compared to others?

I did not have anything like that, removing mine!

Just lucky, I guess?
 

Last edited by 2004Limited; Aug 14, 2014 at 11:24 AM. Reason: Spelling error
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Old Aug 14, 2014 | 11:42 AM
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Ford used a very poor auto hub system, compared to the jeeps and dodges, but there is always a trade off, would you rather deal with the crappy ford hubs or have a 2 piece axle shaft in your front axle. I dont have the auto option and will never want it. I have no problem getting out of my truck and turning 2 ***** before I go somewere I may need it, pull back on a steel lever and I'm gone. Problem happened when we decided we were to lazy to get out and turn *****! I want to push a button, and when it dont work everyone screams Ford you piece of s**t, those auto hubs should be switched once a week and PB Blasted at least monthly. I have seen people sucking on a vacuum line to get the hub to lock, but thats not how it works, the vacuum solenoid allows one pulse of vacuum to lock and 2 pulses to unlock, what keeps the hub locked is that orange plastic clips and a piece of thin metal, which are non serviceable.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2014 | 06:30 PM
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David7.3

Thanks for the information, but I have did not have to hammer on the hubs to remove them, and I have only had them off two times in 77 thousand miles.

I do not think the design is that bad, I have not be stuck, or suffered that problem yet.

I think that twisting a dial on the dash while out on the interstate is a great convenience, and feel that the trade off is worth any design flaws, as I did not buy this truck to go rock climbing!
 

Last edited by 2004Limited; Aug 14, 2014 at 10:37 PM. Reason: Reword sentence
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Old Aug 14, 2014 | 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by David7.3
Ford used a very poor auto hub system, compared to the jeeps and dodges, but there is always a trade off, would you rather deal with the crappy ford hubs or have a 2 piece axle shaft in your front axle. I dont have the auto option and will never want it. I have no problem getting out of my truck and turning 2 ***** before I go somewere I may need it, pull back on a steel lever and I'm gone. Problem happened when we decided we were to lazy to get out and turn *****! I want to push a button, and when it dont work everyone screams Ford you piece of s**t, those auto hubs should be switched once a week and PB Blasted at least monthly. I have seen people sucking on a vacuum line to get the hub to lock, but thats not how it works, the vacuum solenoid allows one pulse of vacuum to lock and 2 pulses to unlock, what keeps the hub locked is that orange plastic clips and a piece of thin metal, which are non serviceable.
Sucking on a vacuum hose, now that's what I call desperation. Or you could say that it literally sucks. I will stick with the manual hubs. The auto hubs for one are more than the price of a set of decent manuals. Turning two ***** is not difficult, and to my wife's delight the mile maker hubs I bought even came with a girly tool for her to use so she wont break a nail Locking them in.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2014 | 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 2004Limited
David7.3

Thanks for the information, but I have did not have to hammer on the hubs to remove them, and I have only had them off two times in 77 thousand miles.

I do not think the design is that bad, I have not be stuck, or suffered that problem yet.

I think that twisting on **** on the dash while out on the interstate is a great convenience, and feel that the trade off is worth any design flaws, as I did not buy this truck to go rock climbing!
My truck has 165,000 on it. As far as locking the hub in, I will just lock them in if I think that 4x4 might be needed ahead of time, then all you have to do is turn the **** on the dash. Its my fault that it happened. That's what I get for listening to the guy at Ford when he said they never need to be serviced. next time you pull yours, if you haven't done so already, put a little ant-seize on the splines where they slip into the axle hub and replace the o-ring. That's why the left hub seized in mine, the o-ring failed.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2014 | 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by joe7327
My truck has 165,000 on it. As far as locking the hub in, I will just lock them in if I think that 4x4 might be needed ahead of time, then all you have to do is turn the **** on the dash. Its my fault that it happened. That's what I get for listening to the guy at Ford when he said they never need to be serviced. next time you pull yours, if you haven't done so already, put a little ant-seize on the splines where they slip into the axle hub and replace the o-ring. That's why the left hub seized in mine, the o-ring failed.
Joe,

I have the factory service manuals, and your right, they don't give them away.

The price off the automatic hubs also seems crazy, and if I need to replace them, I might consider switching to a manual type of hub.
 
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