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Old Aug 8, 2014 | 01:20 PM
  #1  
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Beedub109r
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Carb Help

I was pricing the rebuild kit plus my frustration and I think it came out to more than the $220 these guys are charging for a re-man Holley. I send mine in as the core. Have any of you used them before? They state that they have a lifetime guarantee. I might give it a shot.

Guaranteed Carburetors

Let me know if anyone has used them in the past and how the product/ service was. Thanks in advance.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2014 | 01:47 PM
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Good lord, how did you come up with over $220 for a carb kit. Summit has Holley kits for $20-50 depending on what all you wanna replace. Its a couple hour job at most.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2014 | 01:50 PM
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Rebuild Kit

The rebuild kit is $59.
The cost of my frustration is well over the remaining $161.
I haven't rebuilt a carb in 20 years.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2014 | 07:09 AM
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OP, what's driving you to rebuild the carb? If there's a specific problem you're trying to address, then maybe some folks here could point you to just replacing a few parts.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2014 | 11:21 AM
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Varnish, leaks, Etc.

The main reason for the rebuild is the condition that the carb seems to be in. There is a moist spot on the front bowl and the carb is varnished and generally dirty. The age of the carb is a concern as well. It's just a matter of time until it starts loading up and things start breaking on it. I am not one to throw money at something but, if $200 gets me a streamlined fuel delivery system then I may just take that route. The truck smells like raw gas from 20 feet away and I know that it is not running at peak efficiency. I have thrown a tune up on it, and verified the vacuum lines are secure, seems the logical next step is a fresh carb for it.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2014 | 01:06 PM
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Consider Summit's house-branded carb at $287 for a 600 cfm. It's a Holley clone and uses Holley internals... And it's new.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2014 | 09:52 PM
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Hmmm, if it was me, and I could smell gas from 20 feet away, I would be looking at where the large fuel leak is coming from. It could be the carb, I would also check local to you shops you might trust to see if any of them could rebuild it for you. Speaking about carb's, I need a Holley 4BBL 4180 for a 79 F0350 460 CUIN, AT, SRW truck, I think my Brother in law, sold the original one, as he keep stalling me on getting it back. Checked LMCtruck.com, and they want 500 plus for a reman one, with a core, way out of my price range. Any help would be appreciated. Let us know how your job turns out, curious, how you handle it.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2014 | 10:40 PM
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.. Only a fool would even consider buying a Holley or Edelbrock carb from LMC. Why they gouge potential customers with that kind of mark-up is beyond wonderment.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2014 | 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by HIO Silver
.. Only a fool would even consider buying a Holley or Edelbrock carb from LMC. Why they gouge potential customers with that kind of mark-up is beyond wonderment.
Gotta agree w/Silver on this one.

Summit has a nice Holley knockoff that works VERY well.

Jegs has a similar one, but I don't have any first hand knowledge on it.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2014 | 09:28 AM
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I'll take pics tonight

I'll post some pics tonight of the carb that's on the rig. I did the distributer cap last night and test fired and the silly thing wouldn't get gas in the holes! You guys will probably be amazed at how black the carb is with varnish. Just before I swapped the plugs I went the shadetree route and doused the carb with carb cleaner and it wouldn't even touch the level of varnish in it. The only numbers I can read off the carb is "1402" and it's a Holley. I tried searching for a 1402 and can't seem to find much. Carb Exchange has the carb for a 7.5 L. It's a Holley 4bbl, T4-845 is the model number. Like I said, 200 bucks, plus my core. Seems like the way to go. Next, onto the brakes.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2014 | 09:31 AM
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Pretty sure

Originally Posted by NMFirstF2504X4
OP, what's driving you to rebuild the carb? If there's a specific problem you're trying to address, then maybe some folks here could point you to just replacing a few parts.
It's beyond that state. I don't have the means to give it a true "Sonic Cleaning" so I will have to pay someone else to do it. I'm sure with the re-build kit, the cleaning, Etc., I'd be getting pretty close to the cost of the exchange carb.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2014 | 09:32 AM
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Follow the link in my OP

Originally Posted by Old RV'er
Hmmm, if it was me, and I could smell gas from 20 feet away, I would be looking at where the large fuel leak is coming from. It could be the carb, I would also check local to you shops you might trust to see if any of them could rebuild it for you. Speaking about carb's, I need a Holley 4BBL 4180 for a 79 F0350 460 CUIN, AT, SRW truck, I think my Brother in law, sold the original one, as he keep stalling me on getting it back. Checked LMCtruck.com, and they want 500 plus for a reman one, with a core, way out of my price range. Any help would be appreciated. Let us know how your job turns out, curious, how you handle it.
Follow the link to Guaranteed Carbs. They seem to be the most reasonable price wise.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2014 | 09:24 AM
  #13  
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From: southeast Idaho
Check Holleys site on ebay, you can get a 600 fairly reasonable. The call them remans but they are actually new, bought and returned usually because someone would adjust them out of working order then take them back.
Out of the carbs I got from them the most I had to do was change a pump cam and adjust the idle and air screws a little..
 
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Old Aug 15, 2014 | 12:49 PM
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Updates with questions

I got the carb off last night. disassembled and it was flat out fugly inside. Debris, tarnish, gunk, Etc.



The vents and jets were gummed up





embarrassingly corroded and filthy





Generally Gummed up.

So, the carb is a 4160 double pumper. 600 CFM. Old, obsolete design. Can anyone see the benefit of purchasing the refresh kit# 37-1536 at a price of $92 to $102? $92 was the best price I found BTW. Would I just be better off going with a newer, mechanical secondary carb?
 
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Old Aug 15, 2014 | 12:53 PM
  #15  
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What is this and do I need it?!?

I'm guessing it is smog related. None of the vacuum hoses were connected and, when I got it off it was so carbon'd up, I don't even this air could pass. Is there a delete plate for this?



Emissions?!?





None of these were connected or capped.

Thanks for your help with this stuff guys.
 
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