Is there a replacement for R-12 (freon) so I can recharge my AC without converting to the new R-134a system ?? While your at it any site or written info on how to do the recharge(step by step) ??
thanks !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Yea.....the replacement for R12 is 134a. You either have to find a shop that is willing to (illegally) recharge with R12, or you convert.

 

Go buy one of those conversion kits for $30-40. It should have everything you need with instuctions. I've converted several vehicles all with successful results. I think I've had to add one can of freon into the system on my pickup after 3-4 years (had a slow leak before that's why I lost the r-12). Blows cold air.

 

There are lots of "replacements" but only R-134a is recommended. The others are more dangerous to the environment &/or they're flammable, which is like driving with a can of starting fluid sitting on your exhaust manifold.

 

galaxie223, there are a lot of blends out there that were designed to be drop-in replacements for R-12, such as Freeze-12, FR-12, and Cooltop. If you would like to see how these drop-ins performed compared to R-12 and R-134a, go here:http://www.ackits.com/testresults/alttest.pdf. You will need acrobat reader to see them, but you can download it for free at adobe.com. The thing about blends are that the EPA requires that they have their own unique fittings so you can't accidentally mix refrigerants. If you have a/c problems later down the road, the shop you take it to may refuse it because they have no way of recovering your blend. Your system was designed for R-12 and will not work as well with R-134a, so if at all possible stay R-12.

 

The only change to the system to make it work properly with R-134a is the orifice tube, which should be replaced anyway because it has a filter on it.

 

The orifice pictured means that the compressor is a goner. Just replacing the orifice tube isn't the only thing you have to do to make it work right. R-134a actually does a better job of taking heat out of the air than R-12, which means that the stock tube and fin condenser won't be able to handle the heat load,pass it on to the compressor and kill it too. In order to do a proper retrofit, you must also install a high efficiency condenser. This is especially important in areas of the country that are really hot (I'm in Phoenix,AZ). A retrofit in our shop means you basically replace everything forward of the firewall. Factory hoses are also not barrier hose which must be used in R-134a systems as 134a will actually leak through the hose if there is no barrier. R-134a compressors have steel sleeves that let them handle higher temps and last longer. We use a high efficency parallel flow condenser. Our tests have shown parallel flow condensers are 1/3 more efficient than comparably sized tube and fin or serpentine condensers. I often hear in the great white north that just changing fittings and refrigerants makes no real difference in performance, but you don't experience really hot temperatures there either. It's 106 at 10 in the morning here. Our retrofits have to work, and just changing the orifice tube and the service ports just don't cut it.

 

red/white/ford ...you are a real smart mechanic it sounds like to me

 

If they are still online check out http://members.tripod.com
It is a real good site and covers a lot of area on making the change from R-12 to R-134A. I think the name is JBABS and he has a lot of info there on that site. Real easy to make the change and do it right.

 

Red/White and Ford,

My 85 f150 currently is low on R12. A mechanic whom I consider a friend says we can get it going on Freeze 12 if we replace the O-rings on all the couplings and connectors.

My question is:
Will this freeze 12 do any harm to my compressor in the long run?

I'm really considering it cause it'll be cheap to do.

Thanks!